Thinking on an old Briggs 3 HP Rebuild

[Clarkbug]

Hey all.

So I have an old horizontal 3 HP Briggs that came on my Super Split that I bought probably 12 years ago, and it was old then. It burned a fair bit of oil, and would foul a plug after a few hours if I didn't use MMO in the fuel. But it did the job and that was fine. Anyway, I lent it to a friend and now it hasn't run since. They left it outside and I'm sure it mostly just needed a carb overhaul, but now I'm thinking of digging deeper.

My son has been asking for a project, so thinking this could be a good one to teach him about engines and some general repair stuff. I think it's an 80202, with a tank mounted pulsajet carb. No idea if it's valve guides or rings yet that is causing the oil burn, but wasn't sure how big of a deal it is for valve guides on this engine.

Any tips on stuff I should be sure to check with him on this one? And does anyone know what parts availability is for these older engines? I don't mind spending some money to keep an old engine going, but don't want to pay a fortune either...

 

[64poncho]

It’s a good project! That’s how I got started with engine repairs, when I was about 12 years old. Got a 2 HP with rope start, the kind you had to wind the rope on the pulley.
Depending on how it was abused. Piston rings are usually worn, especially the slotted oil control ring. You can put guides in but requires reamers and will have to true the seats so they are inline with new guides. May get by with lapping them. Also if it has an aluminum bore, can’t go crazy with a cylinder hone. There are ball hones available for aluminum but you would have to research it. Found this parts breakdown online. Don’t know how many parts are still available.

https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/briggs/80200-ms8991-1094.pdf

Good luck with project!

 

[Clarkbug]

Thank for the response!

It will have to sit for a bit until we have some down time, but at least we can pull it apart and see if it can be fixed up. Once we get it torn down I'll post some photos and show what we are dealing with.

Should be a good learning experience for us both.

Also, was there an easy way to convert these old motors from points and condenser to electronic ignition? I know on an old Stihl wood boss that had points I just clipped the wire and bolted in a new 1400 coil. (Thanks to Fish, wherever he is, for that tidbit). Does Briggs have something similar that would work?

 

[GMB74]

There used to be conversion kits to modify the original coil to fire without points. You clipped the wires going to the points and added a capacitor/ transistor module to the coil. I haven't seen one around in a long time, electronic ignition became standard 40-50 years ago.....

 

[Stump Shot]

Thank for the response!

It will have to sit for a bit until we have some down time, but at least we can pull it apart and see if it can be fixed up. Once we get it torn down I'll post some photos and show what we are dealing with.

Should be a good learning experience for us both.

Also, was there an easy way to convert these old motors from points and condenser to electronic ignition? I know on an old Stihl wood boss that had points I just clipped the wire and bolted in a new 1400 coil. (Thanks to Fish, wherever he is, for that tidbit). Does Briggs have something similar that would work?

Order a replacement coil from Briggs and it will be electronically triggered. Set the gap and you're good to go. That's what I did with an old 3 and 5 hp units that I made to working order again.

 

[GMB74]

OK, you made me dig through the archives!
Here is a scan of the instructions of the OEM B&S kit,.
Aftermarket kits were out there too.
Hope this helps

 

[GMB74]

If Stump Shot is correct, that would be the best way to go.
Tear the engine down and check to be sure parts are still available for that antique!

 

[Stump Shot]

If Stump Shot is correct, that would be the best way to go.
Tear the engine down and check to be sure parts are still available for that antique!

It has been a while now, so it may be entirely possible that an aftermarket source be found, if Briggs has discontinued production. Getting parts now days for anything, is like playing the Lotto, strange times we're living in.

 

[Stump Shot]

If it was that your points triggered coil is in really good condition (unlikely as that is) either a Kawasaki or a Nova II module "should" put it back into a firing condition. I would think that the two wire Nova II would have the edge that the polarity can be reversed if necessary if it's with a particular model that the magnets are in reverse order from "normal". These modules are made for coils on the exterior of the flywheel, like the B&S engines are made. They can be found on eBay. It will be a waste however when that old coil gives up and replacement becomes necessary.

 

[Al Smith]

FWIW you can buy an after market self triggered coil for under 20 bucks. An AM carb is also under twenty .I'm not sure about mower engines but generally speaking those larger engines came in I think 3 grades .The lowest had plated cylinders and bushings that was just the crankcase .Next was the IC, iron cylinder which had brass bushings .Last and best was the IC industrial that had bearings in place of bushings .Unless you buy parts from Briggs the parts AM are relatively inexpensive .

 

[Al Smith]

Some times on the more modern aluminum blocks the valve seat inserts come loose .Simple enough ,drive them back in then dimple around the seat with a prick punch .BTW don't bypass the gov. because they will self distruct at speeds over about 4,000 RPM .Throws the rod right through the block .
I've only got maybe 2 or 3 3 Hp but 4-6 5 HP 5 8 HP and 4 or 5 18 HP twins both horizonatal and verticle .BTW Briggs has a good web site where you can trace the model specs using the numbers stamped on the fan/flywheel cover .

 

[Clarkbug]

OK, you made me dig through the archives!
Here is a scan of the instructions of the OEM B&S kit,.
Aftermarket kits were out there too.
Hope this helps

Thanks a ton. I haven't seen. This out there before, says learning something new.

It has been a while now, so it may be entirely possible that an aftermarket source be found, if Briggs has discontinued production. Getting parts now days for anything, is like playing the Lotto, strange times we're living in.

Parts stuff does seem weird. eBay usually seems to have a decent selection of random older bits for Briggs engines, so hopefully I can find what I'll eventually need there.

Some times on the more modern aluminum blocks the valve seat inserts come loose .Simple enough ,drive them back in then dimple around the seat with a prick punch .BTW don't bypass the gov. because they will self distruct at speeds over about 4,000 RPM .Throws the rod right through the block .
I've only got maybe 2 or 3 3 Hp but 4-6 5 HP 5 8 HP and 4 or 5 18 HP twins both horizonatal and verticle .BTW Briggs has a good web site where you can trace the model specs using the numbers stamped on the fan/flywheel cover .

Thanks! I was planning to keep the governor intact if I can, would hate to get this one going just to have it nuke itself....

 

[Al Smith]

I've heard those Predater engines do very well and compaired to others are less costly .Thinking out load I wouldn't think a golf cart would over tax them .However I know almost nothing how they are coupled up having only owned two battery drives which are also simple in design .From my perspective an electric start gasoline engine would be a lot better than a rope start considering the application .Imagine lifting the seat and trying to spin one over with a cord .Also might add many battery starts have generaters built into them to charge the battery which only takes a small unit Edit :.Oops forgot where I was at .The subject was just rebuilding a Briggs engine not golf carts .Carry on !

 

[Clarkbug]

That's OK! I have a golf cart at my parents that probably needs rings and valve seals too, but for now it keeps chugging so I'm not gonna mess with it!

 

[Al Smith]

Not to get off topic too much but those two carts I have I bought for $50 each .Both needed the battery racks repaired and the drives reworked and rewired .As luck would have it I'm a retired journyman electrician so it wasn't a big deal to me .That is the best money I ever spent and handy as a pocket on a shirt .My lady fair has a mobilty problem and this was the remedy she can scoot around my 10 acres with ease .