The forestry and logging pictures thread

[Cat 525]

When bore cutting on the bigger stuff especially, if you back boring it you can feel it trying to push out against a pinch situation. Hook your dogs the other way and it will suck right into it. Like Andy said , the chain should be sharp enough to pull its way when back boring. Otherwise time for a touch up.
If I have to dog in to make it cut I try to sharpen right away. Lots easier on this old guy and the saw also.

 

[davidwyby]

Rarely have to dress my bars because keep my chains so I’m not levering on the dogs, they are just holding back all the powa!

 

[Evansaw]

Ive heard that palm trees are rough on saws, eating up the cases because of the sap. Have you ever had any problems?

Palm juice aka palm oil is a strong toxic acid, willing to destroy all kinds of metals whether magnesium case or bars & chains

Therefore before use i lubricate externally my saw with my chain oil, i use stihl full synthetic
Never had problems so far though alot of people destroyed more 880's than i can count

Chain and bars though have problems i ll get a picture of the recent chain i used

 

[Evansaw]

Almond tree, when dry this must be one of the hardest woods ever makes oak look like shower sponge

Had to remove this one cause branches were complexed inside the wire lines, that's the Mid Voltage wires at 22.000volts

 

[Evansaw]

Today i was asked to check these palms, have to clean them

Dirty job with nice background though

Gonna be fun

 

[Skeans1]

I’m not following what you mean…

When falling timber do you guys not quarter timber across the hillsides? If you did you would have less chances of having one side away like that to be busted up and it’s just a touch safer.

 

[Loony661]

When falling timber do you guys not quarter timber across the hillsides? If you did you would have less chances of having one side away like that to be busted up and it’s just a touch safer.

Gotcha.

Our deciduous trees here do not allow for that in most places. The trees naturally lean downhill, trying to get sunlight. That, and the canopy of each tree is large enough, that in most cases, down hill will avoid damaging neighboring trees the most. Logging here is select cut on mature timber. We do not clear cut, so I don’t have a “strip” to open up and lay how I want.

 

[ferris]

System is definitely better than clear cuts

 

[Stihlalltheway]

System is definitely better than clear cuts

Depends on tree species and your goals for that particular stand of timber, but sometimes yes. Aspen? Clear cut is way better. Pines? Select cut thinning until they’re mature then clear cut and hopefully the forester marked good trees to take in the thinnings is the best option. Maples and oaks? Select harvest for a multi-aged stand is usually best, and that’s what it looks like Andy here is doing. Healthy forests makes a healthy world and you can make money too if done right

 

[Loony661]

Depends on tree species and your goals for that particular stand of timber, but sometimes yes. Aspen? Clear cut is way better. Pines? Select cut thinning until they’re mature then clear cut and hopefully the forester marked good trees to take in the thinnings is the best option. Maples and oaks? Select harvest for a multi-aged stand is usually best, and that’s what it looks like Andy here is doing. Healthy forests makes a healthy world and you can make money too if done right

Well said, Jack.

Ultimately, it’s up to the landowner and their goal for their forest when I log. All my logging is done on privately owned farms and wood lots.

I typically encourage select cut of trees 18” DBH and larger. In some cases, I’ll cut down to 15”, if the goal is to open up the canopy to encourage faster growth of the remaining trees. Another reason I’ll cut smaller timber, is if the landowner needs the money, or is about to sell the land. Otherwise, I encourage only the larger timber harvest, and getting the property onto a logging cycle, every 10 years or so.

Place I’m at now was cut hard last time, and it’s been 40 years. The timber is on the smaller side of what I like to cut, but being selective, should encourage faster growth with the “almost big enough” trees, and double the footage (and money) next time, in a much shorter period of time.

 

[Skeans1]

Gotcha.

Our deciduous trees here do not allow for that in most places. The trees naturally lean downhill, trying to get sunlight. That, and the canopy of each tree is large enough, that in most cases, down hill will avoid damaging neighboring trees the most. Logging here is select cut on mature timber. We do not clear cut, so I don’t have a “strip” to open up and lay how I want.

Not everyone is clear cutting, I honestly hardly ever clear cut. Just to give you an idea my rotation age is around 120 years old average on my personal ground. As far as a strip that’s for clear cuts, in thinnings it’s about lead and lays with the big girls the average length I see out of this age of Doug for 200 feet. When cutting alder or even maple it’s the same treatment whatever will save the most out within reason not uncommon to be putting Dutchman’s in or even a sizwheel to swing them into the lay across the hillsides.

 

[Skeans1]

 

[Skeans1]

I’ve done both mechanical and hand falling depending on the size, length, and weight of the timber I’m in. I can’t find the stuff I’m honestly looking for that would show more lead with lay but you get the idea.

 

[Loony661]

Not everyone is clear cutting, I honestly hardly ever clear cut. Just to give you an idea my rotation age is around 120 years old average on my personal ground. As far as a strip that’s for clear cuts, in thinnings it’s about lead and lays with the big girls the average length I see out of this age of Doug for 200 feet. When cutting alder or even maple it’s the same treatment whatever will save the most out within reason not uncommon to be putting Dutchman’s in or even a sizwheel to swing them into the lay across the hillsides.

I understand what you’re saying. I think the biggest hurdle here, is that the tree species I’m cutting don’t respond to dutchman and sizwell cuts well at all. The fibers break almost immediately, especially frozen.

I have performed swinging dutchman successfully on some oak before, when the temp is above freezing, and the grade of the land is much flatter. Same with the sizwell.

I avoid the sizwell unless I absolutely need it, because it wastes too much of usable tree at the stump, and also pulls fiber from the butt log, which is the most valuable, high grade log on these trees. We sometimes only get 1-2 logs (8’8”) per tree. What we lack in board footage per tree, we make up for in value - the white oak I’m cutting can be as high as $1.60/bd ft currently. So I can’t afford to wreck the butt log.

It’s just a different way of logging with different species and results. I would love to spend some time out where you are, experiencing swinging 200’ tall trees into the lay. Just the same, I’d love to show you how things are done here.

 

[ferris]

Depends on tree species and your goals for that particular stand of timber, but sometimes yes. Aspen? Clear cut is way better. Pines? Select cut thinning until they’re mature then clear cut and hopefully the forester marked good trees to take in the thinnings is the best option. Maples and oaks? Select harvest for a multi-aged stand is usually best, and that’s what it looks like Andy here is doing. Healthy forests makes a healthy world and you can make money too if done right

Explain me why in example in aspen a clear cut is better?
Why cut small trees that nobody will use?
Why cut old damaged trees when the mill
Won’t use them?
Both will spend shade for the next generation of tree. A lot species use old damaged trees for living.

I’ve seen so many video when they cut so small trees, that the mills won’t use. Or old trees that completely falls in to pieces

 

[Skeans1]

@Looney661
I’ve been back to the Great Lakes in the logging a few times yes it’s a little different.

 

[Skeans1]

Explain me why in example in aspen a clear cut is better?
Why cut small trees that nobody will use?
Why cut old damaged trees when the mill
Won’t use them?
Both will spend shade for the next generation of tree. A lot species use old damaged trees for living.

I’ve seen so many video when they cut so small trees, that the mills won’t use. Or old trees that completely falls in to pieces

When we’ve been back there it’s been lots of clear cuts with pine thins.

 

[Stihlalltheway]

Explain me why in example in aspen a clear cut is better?
Why cut small trees that nobody will use?
Why cut old damaged trees when the mill
Won’t use them?
Both will spend shade for the next generation of tree. A lot species use old damaged trees for living.

I’ve seen so many video when they cut so small trees, that the mills won’t use. Or old trees that completely falls in to pieces

Aspens regen through coppicing. Cut 1 tree and the roots shoot up through the soil in about a 20 foot radius around the stump, that’s why often times aspen stands are clones of just a couple original trees. They’re super shade intolerant so they’ll shoot up multiple feet in the first year, usually 5-6’ but in great sites I’ve seen up to 12’ (super uncommon and exceptional circumstances). Rotation age (in the Midwest at least) is around 60 years because they grow so fast, out west they never get as big and might be 90 years old and 10” around, in places like mn wi and mi they might be 24” at 50 years old. Usually they go to pulp for paper which in some mills can take tops down to 2” and some goes to planks for pallets and stuff, and with the disease problems like white trunk rot and hypoxolon canker (pretty sure I spelled that right) it’s good to get them turned over as fast as possible.

 

[Woodslasher]

View attachment 448469View attachment 448470View attachment 448471View attachment 448472View attachment 448473
I’ve done both mechanical and hand falling depending on the size, length, and weight of the timber I’m in. I can’t find the stuff I’m honestly looking for that would show more lead with lay but you get the idea.

Good to see ya back man, it's been a minute since I saw you on the forum.

 

[Loony661]

Here’s an example of how low we cut high grade White Oak: