The Badly fixed 200t needs fixin some moar

[Wonkydonkey]

I got this Stihl ms 200t from a car boot sale.

The story goes, I heard a guy asking how much is that saw. The seller says “£100” it’s got a scored piston. The buyer tries to haggle. The seller isn’t interested.

I walks around and picks up the saw and asks how much ? To the seller. ( pretending not to have heard the previous conversation).

He says £100, I says fine, I’ll take it as long as I’ve got the cash ? I paid him and walked away.

Here in the uk non running 200t go for silly money on evil bay £180-250….

Hopefully I can highlight all the wrongs that this saw has done to it.

As well as all the rights that I do to it… so it can kill trees again..

 

[Wonkydonkey]

This saw has seen a hard time being fixed up in the hands of someone other person
Some Wrong screw heads on the recoil cover is the least of my worries .
Take a closer look in the fuel tank


The fuel filter hose is so long and wrong it’s at the top of the tank. I guess it be ok to use upside down

There was no air filter and no compensating tube , the carb looks interesting. I haven’t seen one of these types, I will get the number off it later.

You can see the missing and broken parts in this pic
The fuel breather is broken. And the ring that go on the inside and ring outer on the intake boot are missing

Now you can see the fixed&*f-worded fuel line but on a positive note it’s proper stihl fuel line that I can use later (impulse)


This spark plug is not telling the truth about the cylinder & piston

You can also see there is a pin missing that fits into the cylinder and locates in the chain break cover, it’s not in the chain break cover either

 

[Wonkydonkey]

For some reason unbeknown to me the bad crapfixerupper decided to make a new route for the impulse line and then put the intake boot cover/clamp back on upside down as it wouldn’t fit

Now have a look at the hole in the line that the new rough route made .
Have a Quick Look at the piston while you’re looking at that impulse line . I did say the spark plug was hiding what the piston and cylinder was showing.

I guess if you push harder that upside down intake boot cover may just fit or just fukup the boot

Another wrong bolt used or just wrongly placed in another hole.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Let’s have a closer look at the piston

And just before you look, let me say, it had been fitted backwards. ( those that know these saws may have noticed it the other pic with the impulse line).
I don’t see any benefit in fitting it backwards, I just think it was done wrongly. Like most other things on this saw.


Those keen eyes of yours will be full of tears of laughter now you’ve had a chance to scan the pics.

This piston has been polished all over including the top.
The lower ring ….. that will make it look really unprofessional. how dafuc up person think that would work with the ends being that far apart. It must be a 38mm ring on a 40mm piston and the wrong thickness I bet that would give some ring flutter and make it sound meaner

You guessed it,, this piston is junk. It’s just to loose in the cylinder, and that top ring has some wear on it

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Let’s have a look at the new bar and chain on this saw

Wait…. What’s that extra hole for.
ahh damit… it’s the wrong bar for this saw [52 dl prolly of a husky or something]

That extra hole is for the chain tension location, and It don’t need a oil hole either

What a Dum-ass guy…

Now we’re on to the cylinder


Errr…. If the piston is cleaned/polished with a new smaller ring, why don’t it work

It don’t look like this cylinder was cleaned up. But I guess if it was cleaned up this saw didn’t run very much afterwards.
But on a positive note that cylinder will clean up real gooder than the last guy did with it

 

[hacskaroly]

But on a positive note that cylinder will clean up real gooder than the last guy did with it

I guess you could say for the first guy...where there is a will, there is a way!!

I am glad that with the 272 I found at the dump, I decided to take it all the way down to splitting the case and rebuilding it. There were many "improvements" I found the last owner had done. One cool thing was the front handle screws used to mount to the fuel tank, he replaced it with a longer one and when he cranked down he popped a hole in the fuel tank. While working on the unit, I flipped it on its side to work on the flywheel and then wondered where the puddle of fuel was coming from.....

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I guess you could say for the first guy...where there is a will, there is a way!!

I am glad that with the 272 I found at the dump, I decided to take it all the way down to splitting the case and rebuilding it. There were many "improvements" I found the last owner had done. One cool thing was the front handle screws used to mount to the fuel tank, he replaced it with a longer one and when he cranked down he popped a hole in the fuel tank. While working on the unit, I flipped it on its side to work on the flywheel and then wondered where the puddle of fuel was coming from.....

I’ve split the case on this saw, the crank is real easy to remove with the roller bearings. (Slides out)

Then this makes those silly hard plastic/Bakelite type crank seals a lot easier to remove/push/knock out from the inside .

It’s now got new ms260 flywheel side crank seals (metal )

I dont really want to have pull this saw apart again just because of old leaky crank seals that are almost impossible to remove. However these new metal seals can be pulled out with a drywall screw if needed

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

So still a good buy for a hundred quid Sean?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Checking if I’ve cleaned the cylinder enough with a bit of acid.

And the results are better after another bit of 120 grit. I gave the int & exh a tickle and a polish while I was there

 

[Wonkydonkey]

So still a good buy for a hundred quid Sean?

Yes indeed Adam
I’ve spent a bit on screws and stuff however, I didn’t like the price of a new oem intake boot . It’s An eye watering price around £35/40 when an aftermarket was less than a 3rd of the price. So I brought a 2nd hand “oem” for abit less than a China part
The screen shot from Ls engineers is plus VAT 20%. you can see the item I bought from eBay.

These saws are selling in the £250-350 and upwards price range working but still unknown.

At this rate I should get a known good working saw for about £150\175

 

[Woodwackr]

Checking if I’ve cleaned the cylinder enough with a bit of acid.View attachment 436644View attachment 436645

And the results are better after another bit of 120 grit. I gave the int & exh a tickle and a polish while I was there
View attachment 436647View attachment 436648

At least it has a 1202 and not a 1201

 

[Wonkydonkey]

At least it has a 1202 and not a 1201

Sorry that one has me. I don’t know the difference in the 2 cylinders ? Apart from 1201 is the part for a 020 and the 1202 is for the 200 and there is a price is different and both parts fit each other

Can you tell me what I’m missing

 

[Ketchup]

Sorry that one has me. I don’t know the difference in the 2 cylinders ? Apart from 1201 is the part for a 020 and the 1202 is for the 200 and there is a price is different and both parts fit each other

Can you tell me what I’m missing

1201 has dual transfer. No divider in the middle and the base pattern is a little different. It’s the kind of thing you find in a thrice jimmy-rigged climber’s saw.
020 carbs are also slightly different. No accelerator pump. You may have one of those.

I’m enjoying this thread. Rebuilding 200t’s is a journey of worn out, bandaged and beat on some more. I especially like the backwards piston with the previously scored incorrect rings.

 

[Woodwackr]

Sorry that one has me. I don’t know the difference in the 2 cylinders ? Apart from 1201 is the part for a 020 and the 1202 is for the 200 and there is a price is different and both parts fit each other

Can you tell me what I’m missing

 

[Wood Doctor]

You would be amazed at how many Stihl top-handle saws have been thrown away because 52 DL chains that work fine on Echo and other brands have been bought that are too long for Stihl bars.

 

[hacskaroly]

You would be amazed at how many Stihl top-handle saws have been thrown away

All top handles should be thrown away...I just fixed two for a buddy, can't wait to give them back.

because 52 DL chains that work fine on Echo and other brands have been bought that are too long for Stihl bars.

That is on the guys buying them....they need to look at their bar or count their drivers. I had customers that would come in and say "I need a new blade for my chainsaw"....and then the 20 questions began. Usually ended when I asked if their gauge was .050 or .063...and they would reply..."Does it matter??". I loved when people who didn't know much of what they were doing brought in their saw...that made it super easy to get them what they wanted, I even usually put the chain on for them and it turned into a teaching moment.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Here’s a bit of an update on this saw.

Those parts I ordered, arrived and I started getting it back together.
I cleaned sorted out the recoil, as the end tab wasn’t sitting flush. I replaced the short starter cord and pawl




I did a little muff mod (drilled a 8mm hole to increase the flow but not to make it louder), we have a slightly different exhaust on the 200 here.



I fueled it up and went to start it. only to find it sort of worked for a bit, then wouldn’t tick over
I guess I should have looked into the carb first.

Yes someone else has removed the fuel strainer and not put it back.
I swapped the carb for some other carb I had here, that didn’t work either . but in the meantime I’ve seemed to have misplaced the original carb

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I did get it running for a while after tinkering with the second carb, then I found out I couldn’t switch it off
So I ended up putting the choke on to kill the engine.
Once I looked into the handle switch, the answer was right there the parts in red circle just wasn’t there

I’ve yet to order these. when I get time I will have a good look at what else is wrong or missing. As well as try find that carb, I couldn’t really read the number on the side so I’m still unsure if it has a fuel pump & if it has it could be leaking thus another reason it I didn’t work

 

[hacskaroly]

Once I looked into the handle switch, the answer was right there the parts in red circle just wasn’t there

I'm thinking those parts might be optional, at least the last owner thought so

The 272 xpg had all of its wires clipped from the heated handles, I'm guessing the last owner didn't realize there is a separate on/off switch for it...

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I found this pic that i didn’t post of the gasket gloop I used (Permatex aviation), as much as I like dirko/RTV I hate that I never use that much of it before it goes off.


I’ve still got to order the spring to switch it off and I shall make a wire with the connections, it would seem you can’t buy just this item as it comes with the coil.


I’ve changed the clutch drum, but after I started the saw I realised need a new roller bearing. Here I was just checking the pto crank size to be sure it was just the bearing
You can hear the ting ting ting due to the worn roller bearing in the vid

I’m happy I’ve finally got it running ok, but I still have a few things to do.
once I get the other bits I will have to make the time to fit them

This is the saw running with a Chinese carb at the mo. And I used the choke to stop the engine.
The oem carb (C0q 61) needs a new accelerator pump as i beleave its leaking air ? Into the carb
It runs ok but if you leave it ticking over it runs out of fuel on the meatering diaphragm side. I have changed the metering diaphragm and had a look at the accelerator pump. It looks like it’s worn

Btw, I can’t believe the price stihl want just for a cheap spring, a very small oring and 2 small bits of metal (£15.22) and I’ve seen aftermarket priced at £10.58

I think I’m going to figure out the size of the oring and just buy a few, I recon it would do the job
Do any of you know the size & type of oring I should get ?