Straighten a twisted 6x6 post

[Mack 880]

Have three 6x6, pressure treated, rated for ground contact, 16 feet long. They have twisted and I need to remove the twist.

These are going to be ground skids for a 12x16 shed, so the floor framing needs to sit on them.

Any suggestions?

 

[JIMG]

Return them
Mill them straight to a smaller dimension
Buy new ones and use these for something else

 

[Seachaser]

Cut out the straight parts and use 2x6’s with screws. A form of scabbing.

 

[Bill G]

As much as I hate to be a negative Nancy I think you are screwed

 

[Mack 880]

Thanks guys! I'll keep you posted (pun intended).

 

[Bill G]

Here our "discount" treated 6x6x16 timbers are $88. A 3 ply laminated one is $132. Of course that is 4 1/2 x 5 1/2. I could not find a listing for a 4 ply. Personally I would find another use for what you have and go spend the coin on laminated ones.

 

[1Snowcat]

My cheap advice..
Quite a few building manufactures have changed from using solid wood posts to using laminated beams. Specifically for the straightness of the item. You could easily build your own beams using smaller dimensional lumber and contractor adhesive and modern fasteners (lags or deck type screws) your outcome would be a much more level/straight skid. If you offset each joint you would have a very straight/strong beam that won't warp or twist.

Goodluck keeping multiple 16 ft posts from twisting during the drying process.

 

[Sloughfoot]

If you're fastening the floor to them it's possible to pull the twist out as you go. Clamps, added blocking and Timber Lok type fasteners to pull and hold them straight. If resting the floor on them and the twist doesn't raise an end more than a half inch or so I don't know why you couldn't just do it, maybe shim it level. With time the weight of the building may flatten them. I've yanked a lot of crooked timbers straight with Timber Lok type hardened fasteners on log homes and timber frame homes.

 

[Bill G]

No reason to start with a bad foundation. Spend the coins and go get some good 4 ply laminated beams.

I think it is odd no one has mention you only said three beams. If you are using three beams on a 12 ft shed you are spanning way too much.

 

[Mack 880]

Okay, I have started a process to straighten these out. Here is my inspiration:

How to Untwist a Pressure Treated Post

Advice from Mike the Pole Barn Guru on how to untwist a pressure treated post. Photo series showing how to apply force to untwist pressure treated columns.

www.hansenpolebuildings.com

I have done something similar for the last two days or so and have removed a large part of the twist. I'll post pictures in a bit.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Mack 880]

As a side note, on all my future projects I will use the laminated board technique mentioned above. I am finding the time lost while waiting not to be a problem on this particular project, so no harm, no foul.

But in the future, definitely going to use (3) 2x6, glued and "HeadLOK" screws together.

 

[Mack 880]

No reason to start with a bad foundation. Spend the coins and go get some good 4 ply laminated beams.

I think it is odd no one has mention you only said three beams. If you are using three beams on a 12 ft shed you are spanning way too much.

Bill G, these are ground mounted skids for a 12x16 shed.

The floor joists are 2x6, 16" OC. The floor joists, rim joists will rest on the skids.

 

[Bill G]

I see guys build them that way but I never did. If you are doing it that way you can probably accommodate the twist with some creative shimming. I have always just floored right over the skids but I know others frown on that.

I am going to stop by the lumber yard today and see if they even have any 4 ply's just for the heck of it. If they do they will be very expensive.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Okay, I have started a process to straighten these out. Here is my inspiration:

How to Untwist a Pressure Treated Post

Advice from Mike the Pole Barn Guru on how to untwist a pressure treated post. Photo series showing how to apply force to untwist pressure treated columns.

www.hansenpolebuildings.com

I have done something similar for the last two days or so and have removed a large part of the twist. I'll post pictures in a bit.

Thanks again guys!

That's the spirit. 4x4x16 is somewhat "spindly" far as post/beams go. You'll make them right and be better for it.
There's no such thing as straight lumber. Each and every framing member has been straightened at least a little in a well built structure.

 

[Mack 880]

Sloughfoot, they are 6x6x16', not 4x4x16'.

That's the only reason I'm not trashing them and moving on with something else. Right now, I have the time to wait for these to untwist. Otherwise, (3) 2x6x16 glued and screwed would be underway.

 

[Mack 880]

Here’s a starting picture. My levers are circled in yellow.



The twist was over 45 degrees initially.

I have a soaker hose on very low, covered by the towels to keep the moisture content high.

The "I-beams" are an effective 4 foot in length, and I'm using 65 pounds of weight right now. So, 260 lb/ft of torque to untwist right now. I add 30 pounds every 24 hours, so next time the counter-twisting force will be 380 lb/ft.

I'll post an updated picture later. This picture doesn't show the weight on the back lever, as I was getting more weight.

Moving slow with the weight to keep from splitting the timber.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Here’s a starting picture. My levers are circled in yellow.

View attachment 421475

The twist was over 45 degrees initially.

I have a soaker hose on very low, covered by the towels to keep the moisture content high.

The "I-beams" are 4 foot in length, and I'm using 65 pounds of weight right now. So, 260 lb/ft of torque to untwist right now. I add 30 pounds every 24 hours, so next time the counter-twisting force will be 380 lb/ft.

I'll post an updated picture later. This picture doesn't show the weight on the back lever, as I was getting more weight.

Moving slow with the weight to keep from splitting the timber.

I recently straightened a 4x6 fir beam with a similar method. That should work. Be patient. Maybe lengthen the lever if it stops working.

 

[Mack 880]

Just added more weight:

 

[Mack 880]

Once the twist is fully removed, I’ll probably let it go just a little bit in the opposite direction. Then I’ll stop the water and let it dry.

Any stress relieving tips that you guys might have??

 

[furb]

I had a concrete walkway at my old house 100’ long or more that was almost perfectly flat. I’d buy cull lumber and lay it on the sidewalk and put weight on the wood. A few weeks later it was good to go. I straightened 16’ 4x6s that way. You can speed it up with a garden hose.