Chain-tensioner replacement (bent Tensioner Shaft, probably bad worm/bevel too) can't remove :/

[Cerberus]

tl/dr-- Anyone know how to remove this 590's chain-tensioner assembly?



At minimum, the main shaft / long bolt ("Tensioner Bolt") is warped & needs replacement, the actual tensioner-pin itself (the thing that rides back&forth on the Tensioner Bolt) is slightly warped & would be nice but I wouldn't place an order for it alone)

Anyone have 590 service manual for this? Figured I could copy-from my 2511t service-manual, but upon checking it (and it is covered in there), the 2511 "pins" the bevel/worm gearing with that steel plate that rides between the bar & the cover, whereas on the 590 - where the pen is pointed in the picture - there's a "cube" of epoxy-like plastic encasing the bevel/worm gear, I can't just slam it out from the outside of the case (I imagine!) so am a bit uncertain how to proceed, whether the replacement bolt is from Ace or online Echo OEM!

Thanks a ton for how to remove it, a 590/600 guide (I have one but it's hardly 10p long / doesn't address this part), would greatly appreciate it

[[PS-- am guessing there's no way around needing OEM for the other problem, the recoil tensioner-spring is also FUBAR, I was able to jam the plastic starter-spinner-assembly[that the rope winds-around] into the coiled spring and put it back together but it was a fight and the pressure from the spring is awful, so to be clear on that one it's:
- OEM specific only, no 'universals' here I'm gonna scoop at H.Depot, right?
- There's no way around "super careful replacement" IE I have to expose "open spring", being super careful not to launch it, even when dealing w/ a brand new one's proper install, correct? (IF this is a Yes, as I suspect, it makes me at least interested in trying 1 last "bend it back in-place" session, I mean somehow it's all mangled / doesn't mate-up properly but as I recall they're "open coil-springs" on 1 face of that plastic 'casing' they come in, right?)
Thanks again!! Got the 660 stuck in-wood right after dropping a big Oak and had to use the 590 for far more than it's ideal for, or at least at the rate I was being forced/compelled by client to move at, saws took a beating I hate giving-in to that am disappoint
]]

 

[Cerberus]

To be clear, I'm only forgoing OEM online order for all parts if:
- Ace has workable alternative for Tensioner Bolt, *and*:
- bevel/worm gearing is not bad inside that 'cube' thingie that houses it, if that thing's bad I'd only use OEM to replace that and, if already ordering, I'd just pay the $15 to echo before rummaging around Ace

So am stuck til I can at least open it up at the worm/bevel gearing area (even if I do know the thread pitch & length & diam that I need for replacing the main tensioner bolt)

[edit-to-add: The main Tensioner Bolt doesn't look so bad in that pic but I promise it's basically un-usable and, in trying to force it, have certainly stressed - maybe ruined - the bevel/worm gearing in that lil cube....also, yes, I have prodded/poked/etc at the thing it is not just 'set in there' not gently at least, not something anyone would 'man handle out' without being sure that that was OK technique!]

 

[cus_deluxe]

Wothout havin it right in front of me, i would be tempted to stick a small flat screwdriver in the little indent by ur pen and pry up on it

 

[cus_deluxe]

Or maybe gently tap in from the outside of clutch cover

 

[Cerberus]

Wothout havin it right in front of me, i would be tempted to stick a small flat screwdriver in the little indent by ur pen and pry up on it

Or maybe gently tap in from the outside of clutch cover

Thanks it worked a charm, grabbed a pick & few small flatheads, and needlenose pliers...wd40 hosed it...the front end (the metal disc at opposing end of Tensioner Shaft) ended up being the stubborn end, was a slight bang on the outside face that easily unseated a wd40'd tensioner worm-gear area (which thankfully seems fine, as my store didn't have that, so am racing for that shaft now lol)

 

[Cerberus]

Thanks again, the "fixed in-place" appearance of that plastic block holding the worm/bevel gearing was just appearance and with proper lube and a good tap from the outside, which I'd never have brought myself to do w/o you having said that C.Deluxe, a good weak-but-quick tap from the outside with tiny screwdriver's butt-end unseated it, actually the front end of the long tensioner bolt was then the hard part to remove, required an Xacto (plastic casing had kinda 'rolled in on' it)
Fully done & 100% flawless, thank you

With it on the proverbial bench I also tried putting an Elasto cord on properly (was already on but the spring was messed up so the cord dangled-out ~2" from its housing, no bueno) but sadly I can't get it to 'bite' like I'd have liked, it's "in place" the damn grip is just too heavy for the spring (it's installed as tight as possible IE I did the "loop trick" with the string so if I did that again to further tighten the spring, I'd have a "rope allows more movement than the spring" situation break the spring So am dealing with a seated, but floppy, Elasto handle now, ugh we'll see how long it lasts!

Modified the airbox even more to further eliminate fines + add more "flow potential" (filtered, of course, Frog Skinz type) am so eager to get him in some wood this saw seems to just get better & better the more it's fine-tuned over time (can't imagine I'm still at "break-in gains" at nearly 6 months!)