Stihl ms 270c gushing oil

[goblerblaster]

I have a Stihl MS 270C that starts and runs good, but it over-oils the chain bar so bad that I can't use the saw, It literally slings chain oil 2 feet in front of the saw and all over the place behind the saw when the saw is running. When the saw is shutoff, it will pool oil under the saw= from residual oil coming off the chain and sprocket.

I have replaced the oil tank vent valve. I have taken the clutch off and inspected the oil pump- did not see any loose hose or other problem. With the bar off the saw = and it running=you can see that the oil is coming from the oil port where it is supposed to be coming from- and nowhere else. The oil tank cap is nice and tight and does not leak oil.
The local Stihl dealer said it "might be " the oil pump. That is a $75 part and I hate to spend that on a guess. I can't find an after market oiler for this saw on the internet.

Any ideas on what to do to fix this thing? It will use a tank of oil in 1/3 a tank of gas. Thanks for any suggestions or advise

 

[Ford3000]

Sorry, not familiar with those saws.
you could make a plate and a piece of rubber to bolt on instead of
the bar, and leave a small hole to let the oil out,
dry the saw completely, run it and only a small amout should come out
of the small hole you left, if the saw still ends up coverd in oil after a minute
of feathering the throttle then there must be a leak somewhere else.

You could remove the oil pump and strip it, look if there is bad wear
or a seal thats bad.

Someone will come along who knows this saw and hopefully advise.

 

[drf256]

Run the saw without a bar and clutch cover. See what happens.

I cannot visualize how a broken pump can over oil, unless your worm gear is being continually driven, even at idle. Even that’s a maybe. It’s makes no sense. You can probably find a used pump in the classified here for much less, but something isn’t right.

Can try thicker oil also.

 

[goblerblaster]

Thx for responses. As, I said, without the bar on the saw I can see that oil is coming from the oil port- just a steady stream even when at fast idle. I guess I will look for a used oil pump, but I agree that it makes no sense.................... If anyone has a working oil pump for sale that will fit this MS 270c please let me know...

Anybody else got ideas ???

 

[Ford3000]

There is a rubber seal between the oil tank and the saw body, is it leaking, had you the tank off.
The OP mentions oil coming out at high idle, of course it will come out, and a lot faster than
you will like with no bar on to slow it down.
Did the OP always own the saw, did someone put on a high output oiler at any time.
EDIT
Has the hose busted, or fell off, you can see it in ths diagram, items 1 ,2 ,3
https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms270/7e0e2fa9-6846-40e4-966d/

Also check the clutch bearing is not seased up and turning when the saw is idling,
easy to do with chain on, it should not be moving at idle, if it is then the oil pump
will be running too.

 

[Stump Shot]

Thx for responses. As, I said, without the bar on the saw I can see that oil is coming from the oil port- just a steady stream even when at fast idle. I guess I will look for a used oil pump, but I agree that it makes no sense.................... If anyone has a working oil pump for sale that will fit this MS 270c please let me know...

Anybody else got ideas ???

Your saw should not be oiling at idle, check for a broken clutch spring or worn out springs. Another possibility something has jammed up against the worm gear and continually drives it. Check to see if it's adjustable or not, if so might be as simple as turning it down. Thin oil will feed faster a thicker oil as mentioned will pump slower. Poulan Pro oil is good for this, or you can add some STP to your oil to thicken it up.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Your saw should not be oiling at idle, check for a broken clutch spring or worn out springs. Another possibility something has jammed up against the worm gear and continually drives it. Check to see if it's adjustable or not, if so might be as simple as turning it down. Thin oil will feed faster a thicker oil as mentioned will pump slower. Poulan Pro oil is good for this, or you can add some STP to your oil to thicken it up.

I think he said its oiling at idle because the bar is off, which will happen even if the springs are good to any saw

 

[Nutball]

I wish my Stihls would oil this well.

 

[qurotro]

Engage the brake and see if it still oil.

 

[Ford3000]

Run the saw without a bar and clutch cover. See what happens.

I cannot visualize how a broken pump can over oil, unless your worm gear is being continually driven, even at idle. Even that’s a maybe. It’s makes no sense. You can probably find a used pump in the classified here for much less, but something isn’t right.

Can try thicker oil also.

Could the worm gear beome the oiler.

 

[5000+]

If it doesn't leak when not running, and not pumping at idle and chain stopped. Probably normal if your "cutting air". Cut some wood and see what happens.

 

[goblerblaster]

Thanks for all the replies. I did notice that the shaft bearing on the clutch seemed to be tight. I could not move it with my fingers , but it was not rusted. I soaked it in Kroil penetrating oil and put it back on.. It is idling really high, but I will tune it down and see what happens. I an using Huskavarna chain oil so it should be good. It seems really tacky and does not leak out of my MS 290.

I will try engaging the brake and see what happens.. Getting ready to go to deer camp so may not respond for a few days... Thanks again

 

[Ford3000]

Thanks for all the replies. I did notice that the shaft bearing on the clutch seemed to be tight. I could not move it with my fingers , but it was not rusted. I soaked it in Kroil penetrating oil and put it back on.. It is idling really high, but I will tune it down and see what happens. I an using Huskavarna chain oil so it should be good. It seems really tacky and does not leak out of my MS 290.

I will try engaging the brake and see what happens.. Getting ready to go to deer camp so may not respond for a few days... Thanks again

Be better to replace that clutch bearing, and grease it, you could ruin the shaft it runs on which is the end of the crank, when that happens you wont be cutting.
Idle should be set low so the chain does no move when not revved up, how were you using a saw
with the chain not stopping.

 

[Larry B]

If you engage the brake and the clutch drum stops turning and the the saw keeps oiling the worm gear is seized on the crankshaft and the metal finger is slipping on the worm gear.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Honestly I can't understand why no one has suggested to just increase the length of the bar until the oiler is properly feeding it oil , might be easier too step up in 2 inch increments, hopefully it's just right before 41" !

 

[goblerblaster]

Ford3000, all oil lines are on in the pic you posted. The only place oil is coming out is at the end of #3- the oil sleeve. I am currently running a 20 inch bar, but had the same results with an 18 inch bar before I changed. I have not been using the saw because it slings oil all over me- been using my MS 290 instead. So, when I decided to mess with this one, it had been sitting for about 2 years and was kinda hard to start and keep it idling- so I cranked up the idle speed just to keep it running and see if it was still slinging oil.
I think the shaft bearing may be the issue. I had the worm gear off and it looks perfectly good. There is not an adjustment for the bar oil flow on this saw like there is on my MS 290. I have owned the saw since new and have probably only had 15 hours run time on it when it started leaking oil so bad I just put it down and decided to use the bigger saw. I just would like to fix it so it doesn't get oil all over me, the bed of my truck, and then the shop floor when I get home.

Thx for the ideas and suggestions. I will check the shaft bearing again and replace if needed and give an update.

 

[CR888]

I would tune the L speed so the saw will run properly with correct idle set 2800ish RPM. I'd also wedge a rag just under the flippy cap while sitting over night to see if the cap O ring needs replacing, it's common for them to leak.