Stihl 066 mysterious running problem advice needed

[2strokejunkie]

Well that is my suspicion that fuel is puddling.
But its interesting for me that the saw had nice throttle response and it would not load up if you would leave it for couple of minutes upright.
From my memory the L screw was maybe a little bit less than turn out.
Also i noticed these couple of times when i tried to start it it would do the choke gurgle and after that i would put in the run position and pull it couple of times and the saw would be flooded. Take the spark plug out clean it cycle a saw to clean the chamber put the plug in and the saw starts first pull but bogs like crazy because of probably excess fuel in the crankcase?
I went through 3 gasket kits(2 walbros,1 de errick) and only on the last walbro kit it got some will to start other two no chance.

 

[huskyboy]

Popoff might be a tad low?

 

[wcorey]

Did you replace/check the welch plugs each rebuild?
Check/block the governor?

 

[2strokejunkie]

Popoff might be a tad low?

Can you explain what is popoff english is my second language.

 

[2strokejunkie]

Did you replace/check the welch plugs each rebuild?
Check/block the governor?

Well i just visualy checked the welch plugs and they seem ok.
As far as i see there is no governor on this carb but its not my first time that i am wrong

 

[wcorey]

Popoff is how much pressure it takes to open/unseat the metering needle/valve.

Yeah not entirely sure about the governor but the ipl does show one, could be an option on different variants.
It would be a relatively large slotted and threaded plug, opposite the adjustment side, at a bit of an angle.

 

[2strokejunkie]

Well today is another day another comedy special by my 066.
I had a spare pto seal kicking about the shop and i said what the hell might as well try it.
I replaced the seal put the saw together and the damn bastard started on the forth pull(never did that before) and as you can imagine i was ALL SMILES. The saw ran like a dream... Skip 2 minutes in the future saw warmed up and the dirty bastard was back on her old sh*t.
It would not accelerate, it would bog immediatly if you even dreamed of touching a throttle.
The L screw could be welded to the carb and she would still idle...
I took the carb of x amount of times pressure tested it cleaned it adjusted the metereing lever up down and no help.
Right now that sledge in the corner of the shop is lookin mighty fine

 

[2strokejunkie]

Popoff is how much pressure it takes to open/unseat the metering needle/valve.

Yeah not entirely sure about the governor but the ipl does show one, could be an option on different variants.
It would be a relatively large slotted and threaded plug, opposite the adjustment side, at a bit of an angle.

As far as i understand the pressure test would be the best judge of that and it held 10 psi just fine so the spring is probabl ok?
I will check if there is a governor

 

[wcorey]

Yes pressure test is it, 10 psi should be ok.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Well today is another day another comedy special by my 066.
I had a spare pto seal kicking about the shop and i said what the hell might as well try it.
I replaced the seal put the saw together and the damn bastard started on the forth pull(never did that before) and as you can imagine i was ALL SMILES. The saw ran like a dream... Skip 2 minutes in the future saw warmed up and the dirty bastard was back on her old sh*t.
It would not accelerate, it would bog immediatly if you even dreamed of touching a throttle.
The L screw could be welded to the carb and she would still idle...
I took the carb of x amount of times pressure tested it cleaned it adjusted the metering lever up down and no help.
Right now that sledge in the corner of the shop is lookin mighty fine

I'm betting you have a bad impulse line or a plugged low speed circuits somewhere. A leaking high speed bleeding off fuel is a symptom of leaks in fuel circuits. Both can be cause by a plugged carb circuit or gummy goo.

All of your fixing or mine will not cure black snot. It must be removed physically most times when chemicals fail. I've had several tools including boats, chainsaws plus others that sat for years and they had a black snot ball in them. It was always on the low circuit side, could and has driven a mfer nuts!

More than one got a sledge hammer just like a few Holley carbs did. After that I learned more and started blowing out low speed circuits with very high pressure air. Be aware you can ruin certain carbs doing this. Welch plug can also go flying about the shop. In the end they can be fixed by drilling more holes, new welch plugs and some creative thinking.

The carbs with membranes in the circuit paths are the ones you can damage. If not that type blast out your low speed circuits with high pressure air to see if you can get a booger out of them onto a clean white paper towel or napkin. This no joke and definitely worth a try. If you have a snot ball under the low speed welch plug the only way to remove it is to pull the plug. WD40 or some other monkey piss can let that goo ball slide out when lodged in angular circuit paths leading to a feed port or needle adjustment.

Did you put a new impulse line on this saw?
A cracked or split impulse line will cause some weird issues.

 

[2strokejunkie]

I'm betting you have a bad impulse line or a plugged low speed circuits somewhere. A leaking high speed bleeding off fuel is a symptom of leaks in fuel circuits. Both can be cause by a plugged carb circuit or gummy goo.

All of your fixing or mine will not cure black snot. It must be removed physically most times when chemicals fail. I've had several tools including boats, chainsaws plus others that sat for years and they had a black snot ball in them. It was always on the low circuit side, could and has driven a mfer nuts!

More than one got a sledge hammer just like a few Holley carbs did. After that I learned more and started blowing out low speed circuits with very high pressure air. Be aware you can ruin certain carbs doing this. Welch plug can also go flying about the shop. In the end they can be fixed by drilling more holes, new welch plugs and some creative thinking.

The carbs with membranes in the circuit paths are the ones you can damage. If not that type blast out your low speed circuits with high pressure air to see if you can get a booger out of them onto a clean white paper towel or napkin. This no joke and definitely worth a try. If you have a snot ball under the low speed welch plug the only way to remove it is to pull the plug. WD40 or some other monkey piss can let that goo ball slide out when lodged in angular circuit paths leading to a feed port or needle adjustment.

Did you put a new impulse line on this saw?
A cracked or split impulse line will cause some weird issues.

I put a brand new oem impulse line on it and blew it out after the instalation to make sure that no dirt has plugged it during the repair.
I did try the blow out thing and nothing has said peek a boo to me. I tried to fill it with carb cleaner and then blow it to have some hydrauilic effect and no help.
I found a second hand carb across a country so i will need to wait for few days to see if the orange and white bastard will have its judgment day

And thank you for your time explaining carb anger managment techniques

 

[Lightning Performance]

Hope you find it was just a carb.

I have an 084 carb might become parts after further dissection some day. It cost me three months of a very sore hand, two not so great D handles, one starter rope and one rope pulley. It was just the carb. The NOS carb I had in stock complements of Levi in Norf Cali cured it instantly because next it was time to put in a pto seal and scratch my head some more. Acted just like your saw. Run good than go whacko with no warning or reason. About impossible to start without the choke. Don't look at the throttle or it stalls. Morning first start was a nightmare sometimes. It was on my truck for two days and then off being gone over. Remembering my last 361 did the same chit and the used carb off my other saw cured it instantly made up my mind to just put on a good one. I fixed the little carb for the 361 eventually. Black snot ball in the low speed circuits and a leaking nozzle. Fun to chase the tune around and get no where. It had been at least five or six years since one of those nasty buggers showed up here again. It should have been dealt with immediately but wanting to run it some before a complete go over was a mistake that hurt for months.

A boat motor will cook a hole if you try that stuffs on two or more cylinders, carbs or with gummy carbs. Black death goo balls are a royal pia to get out. We used to strip the bowls, bake them and drill.

 

[MACHINE]

I put a brand new oem impulse line on it and blew it out after the instalation to make sure that no dirt has plugged it during the repair.
I did try the blow out thing and nothing has said peek a boo to me. I tried to fill it with carb cleaner and then blow it to have some hydrauilic effect and no help.
I found a second hand carb across a country so i will need to wait for few days to see if the orange and white bastard will have its judgment day

And thank you for your time explaining carb anger managment techniques [emoji106]

I took a .44 to a Tecumseh motor one time...

It was damn sure gratifying...

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