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Splitter Hydraulic Fluid

SeldomseenS

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This is my first post on here. This forum has been a great place to pick up knowledge and get inspiration, especially to go buy multiple chainsaws that is probably don’t need.

I bought an old splitter off Craigslist a few years ago that has been modified many times over the years. The frame and pump are Didier with a newer Honda engine. It is slow as death but powers through almost everything. I just ordered an auto-return valve as it didn’t have one. I would like to replace the fluid when I put the new valve on but can’t find specs for it anywhere. I have enough John Deere Hygard left over from changing my tractor hydro fluid. Is it okay to use that in the splitter or should I buy some thing different?

Thanks for any responses


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Steve

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This is my first post on here. This forum has been a great place to pick up knowledge and get inspiration, especially to go buy multiple chainsaws that is probably don’t need.

I bought an old splitter off Craigslist a few years ago that has been modified many times over the years. The frame and pump are Didier with a newer Honda engine. It is slow as death but powers through almost everything. I just ordered an auto-return valve as it didn’t have one. I would like to replace the fluid when I put the new valve on but can’t find specs for it anywhere. I have enough John Deere Hygard left over from changing my tractor hydro fluid. Is it okay to use that in the splitter or should I buy some thing different?

Thanks for any responses


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I bet it does not have a dual stage pump. That's why it is slow but bust anything.

Most splitters are real low tech. A pump, valve, and cylinder. No hypoid rear end gears or hydro drive motors. They can run on almost any oil forever. Our brave splitter recommends ATF or universal hydraulic oil. Clean, dry oil is really the only requirement. No need to spend tons of money for a name brand or "more betterer" oil for a splitter.
 

P.M.P.

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I use cheap supertech atf fluid. Had no problems.
 

SeldomseenS

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Thanks for the responses. The Deere stuff was expensive but I have enough left over that I should be able to refill the splitter. I would normally I go for the cheapest option but on this case the splitter is getting the fancy stuff.


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angelo c

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i know my timberwolf tw6 calls for iso 46 hydraulic oil. NOT atf. there are rust prohibitive packages in either that while not harmful are not required. tractorsupply had my 20 gallons for about $150... so not that bad for some peace of mind. if i remember one had better suspension of water then the other.
 
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Kiwioilboiler

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i know my timberwolf tw6 calls for iso 46 hydraulic oil. NOT atf. there are rust prohibitive packages in either that while not harmful are not required. tractorsupply had my 20 gallons for about $150... so not that bad for some peace of mind. if i remember one had better suspension of water then the other.
Exactly.
Pretty sure hydraulic oil should reject water so you can drain it. Super Universal oil will retain the water because it's designed for lubing gears and bearings which don't like running in straight water if the contamination got that bad and it stayed seperated.
STOU will work, but ISO 32/46 is made for a reason.
 

blades

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Not a matter of hydro oil rejecting water but the water produced by condensation will become mixed in with oil giving a milky appearance. The water will cause rusting in the system- and that is a problem. AW32 AW46 atf they all work, colder weather operation use a thiner viscosity oil. More for getting the motor started than any thing else as after bit the system is going to warm up any way from friction caused by the oil passing through various restricions ( valves ports ect)
 

SeldomseenS

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I went for it and drained as much of the old fluid as I could when I changed the valve. I can’t believe how much of an improvement the auto-return valve is. Also added a log cradle and it is like a whole new splitter. I had been looking at replacing it but now am glad that I spent the $150 on upgrades. I am going to keep and eye on the fluid for water but otherwise I think this thing is good to go for many more years.


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SeldomseenS

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Here’s a pic with the upgrades.
274e063930ef277bb1c52b505891e5e3.jpg



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SeldomseenS

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Do you have a picture of your setup? I am not sure what you mean by work table Before I had the cradle I used to park the splitter next to a really big round that served as a sort of table. I am always up for more improvements. Thanks.


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Wilhelm

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Water, soda, beer - this splitter doesn't care too much, splitting speed varies a little bit though. :p

DSC04998.JPG

No idea what is suitable for Your splitter, but I'd go with dedicated hydraulic fluid.
 

SeldomseenS

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That looks like a twelve pack of splitter fluid! Big rounds!


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angelo c

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Do you have a picture of your setup? I am not sure what you mean by work table Before I had the cradle I used to park the splitter next to a really big round that served as a sort of table. I am always up for more improvements. Thanks.


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Timberwolf calls it a "table grate" other manufacturers call them "off shoot tables". They handle the off splits so you don't have to pick them up off the ground after every split. Also serves as a transition to the conveyor as well
 
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Kerfed

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How often do y’all change the hyd fluid? We split at least 12 cord last year but fluid looks fine.
 

Lightning Performance

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My mini DR 6 ton electric has the added bolt-on catch table feature. The big splitters get a sheet of plywood between the trailer and the splitter. Bigger the table the better.

Also have the booster table made for the 5 and 6 ton DR splitters. Nothing like a double height mini if your not sitting down on a cut firewood round.

Need to change the oil in it this year.

Do electric splitters need a different fluid?

:icon_popcorn:
 

SeldomseenS

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I see what you mean about the table. Like the ones on the Super Split or DR. I like the idea of a plywood table or even a chute closer to the woodshed. The older I get the more the work smarter not harder saying makes sense!


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