Saw's clutch began squeeeling, lubing in-between clutch&clutch-band *temporarily* resolved it...

[Cerberus]

My clutch began weailing, initially thought it was , my bar (had just done heavy bar&chain clean&overhaul) but proved to be the clutch,I didn't remove it (ie jamming piston, and CW/counter-threaded removal of clutch&clutch's "exterior shell" which is both sprocket and clutch-band on this saw, like most climb saws!)but I *had been* greasing the tip of the drive-shaft with one of those smart Oregon grease-guns, feared it was the case//shaft interfacing, that maybe while cleaning w/ carb-cleaner I accidentally flushed-out heavy-grease andleft it dry at a main bearing or something, but this is certainly related to clutch-positioning IE if I tap the throttle it relieves it for a second (til idling again), if I put the chain brake on it makes it squeal way worse...

Had sprayed wd40 in-between clutch&clutch-band and it did shut it up entirely but I'd only used it another ~10min, when I went to use it today it was squealing again so I turned it off/used another saw as I don't want to destroy anything :/

Thanks for any advice, unit is 1yr old and has been kept-out of rain for almost-all of its use, I do clean regularly &aggressively with carb-cleaner spray (it's my "car wash" after usage!) but have kept it lubed and haven't beaten the hell out of it ie I don't stall-out the engine by forcing the bar too-often am pretty good about that!

Am afraid to even use the unit til I resolve this, squeling means some metal needs lube, but I know it shouldn't be the clutch/clutch-band interfacing! It's only 1yr, and I treat it well, but I did put a 12" on this 25cc, $135 ebay saw (scheppach csp2540, will be writing an A+ review soon *even if* the clutch is dead because I've put a TON of hours on this thing), while it isn't a fancy saw by any means though it has been impressive through&through (even after *just* getting a 355t - which is a frickin' dream, a marvel of engineering lol - I've still been taking the lil guy up for some stuff, down-graded his bar back down to the 10" (solid Oregon) bar it'd came with and'll be running VXL chain on it (has been impressive just using fresh/sharp safety chain though! )

Thanks for any advice! I can certainly rule-out dirt/debris, I didn't just spray w/ carb-cleaner I inspected real closely and there's nothing stuck/jammed anywhere! I know it needs lube somewhere just don't know where

 

[Deets066]

Take the clutch off, clean everything completely. Grease the bearing only. Check the brake band for excessive wear or if it is broke.

 

[Creaky limb tree care]

As above, your clutch bearing is dry!

 

[smokey7]

Sounds like the brake band is dragging on the clutch drum. Check for a air gap around the band/drum. If they touch adjust.

 

[Deets066]

Sounds like the brake band is dragging on the clutch drum. Check for a air gap around the band/drum. If they touch adjust.

His statement did make it sound like that a little.
Let’s say your chain is turning at idle. The bearing is not in motion at this time, until you lock the brake. Now you put the bearing in motion. So it may seem like it’s the brake squealing, but realistically it’s Probly the bearing.

 

[Cerberus]

Heh, going to have to re-read these a few more times but suspect all I need is in those 4 posts

To be clear...what is the "clutch bearing"? Feel dumb but thought it was just the clutch, clutch "band/sprocket"-piece, and the shaft they reside upon...the only bearing I know in that area is the one that hugs the clutch's shaft, and is at the intersection/interfacing of the shaft//the powerhead (it's that bearing that's pressed-into the side of the powerhead-casing, from which the visible portion of the shaft protrudes)
pics (yes I know the muff holes are silly, and that I over-did the Permatex!!)

(I squirt grease into the tip of that shaft w/ the Oregon grease "push-gun", maybe not enough though? Are we talking about that lil roller-bearing, a "needle cage" type that's sandwiched-between shaft and clutch? Always thought of that more as a spacer but starting to think that's what you guys mean....the "push-gun" isn't gonna grease that, should I get spray-able lithium? All I use for heavy-greasing is a tub of lithium, applied w/ q-tips or toothpicks..)


^gets packed but I cleaned it out and no difference (actually it got a bar&chain swap in the past 24hr as well, not that we're suspecting b&c but I just mean it's been opened/cleaned/re-tested and isn't a debris/cleaning issue )

 

[Cerberus]

Yknow after testing it, then opening&cleaning to evaluate it, 2 things hit me:
1 - I'm using carb-cleaner spray like compressed-air to clean my saws, often on a per-use/daily basis so spraying a ton and could most-definitely have flushed-out any hard-greases in the 'nooks&crannies' of the shaft//clutch area (looking at you, needle-cage roller-bearing!) What do you guys use to clean up? Maybe just use a paintbrush/similar to physically remove excess "crud-pack" from the saw and leave it at that, always part-dirty?

2 - I'm always terrifiedAF of removing clutches, last time I did it the fricking piston began to 'eat' the stopper-rope a lil, just the tiniest bit but that made it near-impossible to pull-out the rope (and I cannot open a piston/cylinder or rather I've yet to try so would be working blind w/ google) Any DIY stopper ideas? I like the plastic plugs you put in the spark-plug-threading (and'll order one) but can't help thinking I could just 'sacrifice' a spark plug and, using Steel Stick or Bondo or something on its end, make it into a piston-stop.....problem is I've no idea top-dead-center is required, or simply jamming the piston and being sure to have some 'pop' in the wrench throwing that first clockwise-motion to remove it (I use an appropriately sized socket, like from a socket-wrench kit, and grind-off two halves of its "tip", leaving 2 halves to act as "teeth" for a custom clutch tool that can go on wrench/drill, have made them for multiple saws they work flawless just takes like 20min of fine-grinding to have them ready to use!)

 

[Deets066]

I use rope for a piston stop. If it’s eating the rope, then use a larger diameter.

You are correct in thinking it’s the needle bearing that’s between the clutch and shaft. Carb cleaner or brake cleaner and compressed air is what I normally do maintenance cleaning with also. Just get the packed crud out, clean the bearing and apply grease.

 

[Spladle160]

I do not believe you should be attempting to grease the end of the crankshaft. You are likely just greasing your clutch contact points. If it's squealing while it's idling either the clutch bearing is bad/needs grease or you have something making contact that shouldn't be.

Get this piston stop or better yet 2. They're essentially disposable as they will get eaten up at some point. https://www.hlsproparts.com/Piston-ring-compressor-tools-kit-p/s97419.htm

 

[Philbert]

To be clear...what is the "clutch bearing"?

Could be the thing that's screaming!

Or it could be your oil pump.

Or the plastic, oil pump drive gear.

Or any of the other parts shown in that diagram . . . . ?

While you have the clutch removed, also check to see if the hole in the crankshaft really pushes grease to the clutch bearing (try it with the clutch and bearing removed.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/scheppach.306334/


Philbert

 

[fearofpavement]

Get an impact and take your clutches off with that. I have never used a piston stop or rope in a cylinder on a chainsaw. 1/2 second with the butterfly impact and the clutch is off. Spark plug in or out makes no difference.

 

[Deets066]

Get an impact and take your clutches off with that. I have never used a piston stop or rope in a cylinder on a chainsaw. 1/2 second with the butterfly impact and the clutch is off. Spark plug in or out makes no difference.

Some saws are stubborn. My 066 race saw’s clutch will not come off.
I’ve seen the piston bust the jug clean off the case from putting so much force on the clutch trying to remove it.

 

[Philbert]

Get an impact and take your clutches off with that. I have never used a piston stop or rope in a cylinder on a chainsaw.

How would you connect an impact wrench to the clutch in that photo?

Philbert

 

[Deets066]

How would you connect an impact wrench to the clutch in that photo?

Philbert

Cut and grind socket to fit the clutch

 

[CR888]

If he can already get the clutch off he should just do it but I'd be checking the crank stub to see if you have been actually feeding the bearing grease....my guess is perhaps not. Compressed air is pretty much all you need to clean down a saw.

 

[Wilhelm]

Get an impact and take your clutches off with that. I have never used a piston stop or rope in a cylinder on a chainsaw. 1/2 second with the butterfly impact and the clutch is off. Spark plug in or out makes no difference.

I have to try that!

I want to replace my PS-7310's clutch weights, I have to replace my PS-7300's oil pump driver, and I'd like to replace the oil lines on my PS-6400.

I only ever had the clutch off my PS-7300, and that one I cut the spider apart as I couldn't get it to give in to mild and medium force.