High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Husqvarna battery saw fix

HumBurner

Pinnacle OPE Member
Local time
4:46 AM
User ID
23235
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Messages
1,167
Reaction score
3,610
Location
Humboldt
Country flag
That inertia break is on almost all pro saws and it’s there for a reason. It may save your butt some day.
I did some looking around this morning, and what I found confirms what you're saying. This is 25-35year old tech.

All that aside, I've still never had a saw stop on its own from kickback or dropping/rolling. The back of my left hand is positioned and ready to be able to hit the brake with the lightest flick of the wrist. Maybe I trip the brake at the same time or before the inertia activation....? I'm also applying forward/downward pressure in the events I'm cutting at or above face-height, so that if it does kickback, I can stop the saw before it hits my face.


It's interesting Husqy has chosen to use this as a selling point/highlight on the resource page. Maybe they ditched the damned brake-sensor?
 

livemusic

Super OPE Member
Local time
6:46 AM
User ID
646
Joined
Jan 22, 2016
Messages
268
Reaction score
411
Location
NW Louisiana, USA
Country flag
Check the video, maybe you get the answer.

Well, I am back after a long hiatus! I watched it, thanks for the video. Not sure what I learned! But what the saw does when he cuts the cookies in the locust, that is what my problem is. It just stops like it's binding up. He seems to note that this happens if he dogs into the cut. I guess he means that if he lets the saw just cut with little pressure, it does not bind / bog down?

At the very end of the video, he puts the clutch cover from the 542 onto the 540 and notes that it's a bigger gap. But I'm not sure that chips clogging up was causing the issue of cutting the locust. I guess I will have to watch it again! If the clutch covers solves it, then there's the fix. Assuming I can get the part.

I have the .325 nano bar/chain that came with the saw.

Again, this seems a flaw. I guess I have probably already complained that Husky should provide a free fix, lol. I'll have to spend close to $100 if the clutch cover is the culprit. (I think it is part number 536885801, 536 88 58-01.)
 
Last edited:

ZERO

Simple Life
GoldMember
Local time
1:46 PM
User ID
3354
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
444
Reaction score
2,120
Location
Woods & Mountains
Country flag
Most likely the overload protection kicking in.

The oregon speed cut nano does well with these saws.

I took the inspiration from our good friend Richard Flagg and did a 1/4 pitch conversion. Could not be happier.

In my world of dirty muddy wood, I do prefer the direct sprocket drive.

20260123_085306.jpg
 

livemusic

Super OPE Member
Local time
6:46 AM
User ID
646
Joined
Jan 22, 2016
Messages
268
Reaction score
411
Location
NW Louisiana, USA
Country flag
Most likely the overload protection kicking in.

The oregon speed cut nano does well with these saws.

I took the inspiration from our good friend Richard Flagg and did a 1/4 pitch conversion. Could not be happier.

In my world of dirty muddy wood, I do prefer the direct sprocket drive.

View attachment 480474

Thanks for replying, you say 'overload protection kicking in,' is there anything I could do about that?

What did you mean by your direct drive statement? Are you referring to Husqvarna coming out with battery saws with a clutch?

Do/did you not notice what I described when using your saw? If not, any idea why not? I just wish I could fix mine. And now wonder about the aforementioned saws with a clutch. I think I saw that the new 542 and the 550 have a clutch. I am thinking that is an alternative to direct drive for more torque. Do you think they did it due to the problem I have?
 

ZERO

Simple Life
GoldMember
Local time
1:46 PM
User ID
3354
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
444
Reaction score
2,120
Location
Woods & Mountains
Country flag
To be fair to Husky, both the 540 and 542 cut out under load.
Each saw behaves differently: the generational difference between the two.
The 540 cuts out completely due to the direct drive sprocket off the shaft, otherwise the motor/battery would burn out.
The 542 a clutch systems cuts out and tries to re-engage, can do since the clutch dis-engages when the motor cuts out.

Then both saws cut out, under load with bucking spikes which tells me the operator had to be pressing hard.
Operator does mention using bio-degradable oil that sticks really hard, hence the cover chip build up.
It hardens the drive links and probably bar rail grooves along with the sprocket nose causing additional resistance.

If we back up a step, we have to look at our overall cutting experience be it good or bad, it is a three piece pie.
1. Understanding the five fundamentals that work together to make a chain cut.
2. Sharpening/setting a chain for a specific fiber to be cut.
3. Operator skill level.

In the video, as most of us do, we sharpen/set a chain and expect it to work in all applications.
#1 fails, it seems to be a stock chain, one has to understand what a stock chain does.
#2 fails, cuts fine in soft wood, but the chain is not set up correctly for the hard species, thus it overloads the saw.
#3 fails, soft wood both saw powers through, he too is surprised, no dogging in. Maybe he is impatient how hard wood cuts and is pushing too much on the saw.

I run both 10"/12" set up depending on what I cut.
10" hard wood stumps are not a problem, cut flush with the ground.
Knotty logs that a splitter will not touch for the stove, both cut and cross-cut, no problems.
Using the original BLI200 battery with the green cells.
 

livemusic

Super OPE Member
Local time
6:46 AM
User ID
646
Joined
Jan 22, 2016
Messages
268
Reaction score
411
Location
NW Louisiana, USA
Country flag
To be fair to Husky, both the 540 and 542 cut out under load.
Each saw behaves differently: the generational difference between the two.
The 540 cuts out completely due to the direct drive sprocket off the shaft, otherwise the motor/battery would burn out.
The 542 a clutch systems cuts out and tries to re-engage, can do since the clutch dis-engages when the motor cuts out.

Then both saws cut out, under load with bucking spikes which tells me the operator had to be pressing hard.
Operator does mention using bio-degradable oil that sticks really hard, hence the cover chip build up.
It hardens the drive links and probably bar rail grooves along with the sprocket nose causing additional resistance.

If we back up a step, we have to look at our overall cutting experience be it good or bad, it is a three piece pie.
1. Understanding the five fundamentals that work together to make a chain cut.
2. Sharpening/setting a chain for a specific fiber to be cut.
3. Operator skill level.

In the video, as most of us do, we sharpen/set a chain and expect it to work in all applications.
#1 fails, it seems to be a stock chain, one has to understand what a stock chain does.
#2 fails, cuts fine in soft wood, but the chain is not set up correctly for the hard species, thus it overloads the saw.
#3 fails, soft wood both saw powers through, he too is surprised, no dogging in. Maybe he is impatient how hard wood cuts and is pushing too much on the saw.

I run both 10"/12" set up depending on what I cut.
10" hard wood stumps are not a problem, cut flush with the ground.
Knotty logs that a splitter will not touch for the stove, both cut and cross-cut, no problems.
Using the original BLI200 battery with the green cells.

Thanks again for your reply. You have same 540iXP as me but you use 10" or 12" bar? As I said in the OP, I bought a 16" and that was because after inquiring about the saw being strong enough for 16" prior to purchasing, was assured that it is. Heck, maybe for pine but it sure seems to me that it is NOT strong enough for hardwood. This is discouraging because this and saw and batteries was expensive and I bought it at a sale price! I'm disappointed in Husky about this saw.

Do you think I should get a shorter bar? And how do you set a chain for hardwood different from a common sharpening?
 

TreeHunter

OPE Member
Local time
6:46 AM
User ID
28069
Joined
Dec 10, 2023
Messages
19
Reaction score
13
Location
Wisconsin
Country flag
Thanks again for your reply. You have same 540iXP as me but you use 10" or 12" bar? As I said in the OP, I bought a 16" and that was because after inquiring about the saw being strong enough for 16" prior to purchasing, was assured that it is. Heck, maybe for pine but it sure seems to me that it is NOT strong enough for hardwood. This is discouraging because this and saw and batteries was expensive and I bought it at a sale price! I'm disappointed in Husky about this saw.

Do you think I should get a shorter bar? And how do you set a chain for hardwood different from a common sharpening?
Did you run it in hardwood and have a bad time? I have a 16" bar on mine and with the chain set up correctly, sharp and depth gauges set correctly the saw works great. If its too aggressive or on a soft wood setting its going to be more difficult to manage.
 

ZERO

Simple Life
GoldMember
Local time
1:46 PM
User ID
3354
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
444
Reaction score
2,120
Location
Woods & Mountains
Country flag
From the true experts that run a 325 all day long.

Randy from Guiltyoftreeson
Damian and August from the August Hunicke
Reg Coates
Veteran Tree Servive

The stock husky chain that comes with these is nothing to rave about.

You can try the speed cut nano and see if anything changes. The pros mentioned above run them all day long.

I run mine with the faster 9 tooth 1/4 pitch sprocket. Thus far no issues, for me, unification of all my top handles under the 1/4 pitch umbrella.
 
Top