Pre-oiling a chain

[livemusic]

I don't recall where I read it but somebody was talking about soaking a chain some kind of oil before ever using it and reported that it was a favorable result. I don't recall what it was... maybe it stayed sharp... uh... no, maybe it was that it didn't stretch hardly at all. On another internet site, somebody said "Turn your Oiler up to maximum and consider pre-oiling the chain." So, what is this pre-oiling? With what? For how long? And why, lol? I always wondered if you could just squirt oil onto your bar or into your cut if your oiler isn't working well enough. Maybe they did that in the old days!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Well as you ask, I’ve read that pre oiling a chain is good, and when I tried it it was inconvenient as hell. As in such, I had to carry a oiled chain in a bag with me at all times till I needed to swap it.
Well it just go flung off quicker than the time to put it on.... so now I just add a bit of light oil to stop it rusting in the bag. When I put the new chain on I add a bit of oil to the bar rails and rotate the chain a bit. It just gets flung out as I run the saw and the bar is lubed

I’m sure there’s many ways to do it, but there’s no need to over lube as all chains are dry at times.

 

[Ford3000]

I just steep new chains as I need to use them, in fresh engine oil in
a plastic sweet box, I leave it a few days, then hang it on a peg
to drip back into the same tin it was steeped in, less oil slung off
when it goes on the saw, I also store the chains in another similar
tin of oil after they come off the saw and are cleaned.
All tins have lids of course and are kept closed to keep the oil clean.

 

[livemusic]

I just steep new chains as I need to use them, in fresh engine oil in
a plastic sweet box, I leave it a few days, then hang it on a peg
to drip back into the same tin it was steeped in, less oil slung off
when it goes on the saw, I also store the chains in another similar
tin of oil after they come off the saw and are cleaned.
All tins have lids of course and are kept closed to keep the oil clean.

By "fresh engine oil," you mean new or oil drained from an engine?

The "plastic sweet box" or "tin," what are they like? Any example?

What do you think this process gains you? I've never done anything other than soak in diesel when a chain gets funky.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Some kind of case to carry chains untangled would be quite quite nice....

 

[Stump Shot]

Seeing that the oiler is driven by the chain turning first it makes some sense to pre oil the chain so the pump can get a chance to prime and take over from there. I just take a squirt can and go down the top side of the bar with a few squirts of oil just prior to slipping the chain on. Now the(sometimes expensive) bar and chain has something to get started with. Older saws with manual oilers are easy just give a couple pumps when you start out.

 

[Ford3000]

By "fresh engine oil," you mean new or oil drained from an engine?

The "plastic sweet box" or "tin," what are they like? Any example?

What do you think this process gains you? I've never done anything other than soak in diesel when a chain gets funky.

Diesel penetrates, but it also causes rust, I use for cleaning engine blocks where I clean them
afterwards.
I buy 10 Liters of engine oil for my car, that does Two oil changes with enough oil left
over to use for the chains.
The plastic container I use is 8 inches or more in diameter, and over 4 inched deep, thats
where I put the oil and chain, the lid is the full size of the container, and clips on tightly,
I certainly wouldnt expect the lid to remain on if the container was tipped over, but its in
the shed, so going nowhere.

I was told that a chain wears most when it is initially run as it can be dry for a while
until oil eventually gets to the links, I do the exact same for my bicycle chains, though
I just leave them on after initial oiling, clean them off after riding, and put a cardboard
piece on the ground and spray oil onto the chain, I take it off if I hear a squeek, clean
it steep it again and repeat. I think am doing what I can without going overboard in
keeping my chains oiled and clean.

 

[Ford3000]

Seeing that the oiler is driven by the chain turning first it makes some sense to pre oil the chain so the pump can get a chance to prime and take over from there. I just take a squirt can and go down the top side of the bar with a few squirts of oil just prior to slipping the chain on. Now the(sometimes expensive) bar and chain has something to get started with. Older saws with manual oilers are easy just give a couple pumps when you start out.

I do the same, put some oil on the bar, I also stand the bar nose down in a container with Four
inches of clean oil every time I take the bar off for cleaning or storage, I never have bar issues or sprocket trouble.

 

[huskihl]

You guys are over the top. Seeerious about your equipment

 

[Moparmyway]

You guys are over the top. Seeerious about your equipment

RIGHT !

Mine hang on a nail

 

[Stump Shot]

Took one saw that wouldn't oil to with a $150 bar hung off it to motivate me.
Mine hang off of decking screws...savages. lol

 

[Philbert]

Oregon recommends soaking in bar and chain oil, to be sure oil gets to the rivets. It is messy, because bar and chain oil is tacky / sticky. I coat my chains with WD-40 after cleaning, to make sure that there is a thin oil film.

I think that a thin machine oil, like 3-in-1, would be a good choice to pre-soak the chain in, or at least to apply to the rivets. It flows easily, would provide some protection against rust, and provide an easy ‘pathwsy’ for the bar and chain oil to be ‘absorbed’, once added.

JMHO

Philbert

 

[huskihl]

I’ve actually never cleaned a chain to sharpen it. Never had to clean my CBN wheel, and occasionally/regularly dress my green Tecomec wheels with a diamond dresser. Usually if there’s crud baked onto the chain it’s from the oiler not working properly. But I probably sharpen more often than most so I don’t see the dirty chains that come from leaning on the saw trying to make it cut

 

[Philbert]

Here's that Oregon recommendation:


Philbert

 

[angelo c]

and now for the crazy Italian perspective...i buy the cheapest "transmission" fluid and fill a very expensive coffee can then toss the chain in it fer a few days...then hang the chain from a hook above the expensive coffee can and the damn chains stay pretty lubricated for weeks... tranny fluid is freekin wonderful stuff. just sayin.

 

[Cat 525]

I don't take a chain off till it's shot or I hit something! Just sharpen on the saw and have all the oilers cranked wide open!

 

[deye223]

I don't take a chain off till it's shot or I hit something! Just sharpen on the saw and have all the oilers cranked wide open!

+1

 

[Wilhelm]

I don't take a chain off till it's shot or I hit something! Just sharpen on the saw and have all the oilers cranked wide open!

+1

+2

Every saw of mine has one main B&C setup which comes off only for cleaning and maintenance or if I utilize a secondary B&C setup.
I sharpen/file my chains on the saws.
I never soak chains in oil, but I do squirt some oil into the bars top groove upon assembly after having taken the B&C off for whatever reason.

 

[Nutball]

Oregon has had their chains pre oiled with a thin coating of some sort of sulfur based oil for a while. At least the new loops do, I don't know about rolls.

 

[Ford3000]

You guys are over the top. Seeerious about your equipment

Its as easy to clean the bar and chain, and oil them as it is to clean them and not,
so I just take the sensible option for me, and I hate a squeeky chain on a bike,
you can never sneak up on a pensioner and yell in their ear,
but worse, every dog in the country is out to get you if they can hear you shqeeking,
and the pitch of that squeek seems to iritate them to no end.