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Stump Shot

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I watched that buckin bill guy on youtube he was cutting a maple cluster and it barbered to about 30 ft check it out he played it off but i know it woke him up I've had it happen and i used to be pretty handy with a saw lol i do enjoy his vids and hes always positive.
How could anybody not like Buckin' Billy Ray, well That Jack Axe feller probably hates him, but other than that, the guy is awesome. Yes, very Positive Dude.
 

Coltont

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@Coltont Hey Colton, I've been wondering, is there any reason to help in felling to do a humboldt notch? Or is that more for wood recovery in the log? See some guys do 'em on vids and stuff, but by home everyone pretty much uses a standard notch cut. So I'm wondering if I'm missing something or not. Thanks Steve
I'm not sure how to answer that question. I don't think that hardwoods react the same as the PNW softwoods do on the stump. I always use some version of a conventional face cut. Jack Beelar of hotsaws101 is out in California and I've seen him in his videos use Humboldt's, a conventional face, block face for holding it on the stump longer. I think it comes down to what you were taught as what works for the species your cutting and what you want to tree to do coming off the stump. The Humboldt would take your waste wood from the notch out of the stump instead of the log. But a good steep and deep conventional face won't hurt the log at all. I don't know if that helped or confused you more.
 

Coltont

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Keep in mind that on hardwood timber the most valuable wood comes from the first 12 feet. With a Humboldt your going to have a higher stump leaving some (not really that much if you'd take your time and notch low) of the most valuable wood on the ground still. Low stumps are your friend. Skidders are near magnetically drawn to high stumps it seems. This is the result of hot dogging and trying to turn around going to fast and putting the high side tires on the high side of a stump on a slope.
981064cf14c8c851663b9d9cbf28e187.jpg
The stump the guy is standing on is the one that rolled him. It's even a low stump.
 

beaglebriar

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Yes but I still thought I was 25
I bought a splitter like yours (think it's the 22 ton so a little smaller) just for the vertical option.

Still kills my freakin' back after a day of splitting big stuff. So I'm not sold on that option.

It needs a bigger plate on the bottom. Gonna have to break out the welder at some point. It's gonna get a GX200 too. I can't stand that noisy Briggs.
 

Czed

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What should jackaxes youtube channel be called.
 

Stump Shot

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I'm not sure how to answer that question. I don't think that hardwoods react the same as the PNW softwoods do on the stump. I always use some version of a conventional face cut. Jack Beelar of hotsaws101 is out in California and I've seen him in his videos use Humboldt's, a conventional face, block face for holding it on the stump longer. I think it comes down to what you were taught as what works for the species your cutting and what you want to tree to do coming off the stump. The Humboldt would take your waste wood from the notch out of the stump instead of the log. But a good steep and deep conventional face won't hurt the log at all. I don't know if that helped or confused you more.


There's that aspect too, as I do some milling and have made a few boards with the notch on the end. I'm no Pro, make no mistake, more like an orP when it comes to felling, so I try to pay attention when I can. I already learned more from you guys here than I did from reading all of JA's BS, was a bit of a disappointment to say the least. We have a mixed bag as far as timber goes, Norway, White, Tamarack and Jack pines, Red Oak hard and soft maple, birch, poplar and cedar for the most part.
 
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