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maulhead

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I blew a seal last week.....

Front pins came right out.


DSCN9878.JPG


Rear pins will not budge, thoughts other than welding a bolt on it and using piece of pipe & washer as a puller?

Already tried heat and a BFH, it's not budging.


DSCN9875.JPG
DSCN9876.JPG
 

Loony661

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timg

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I blew a seal last week.....

Front pins came right out.


View attachment 389607


Rear pins will not budge, thoughts other than welding a bolt on it and using piece of pipe & washer as a puller?

Already tried heat and a BFH, it's not budging.


View attachment 389608
View attachment 389609
Grind down the flowered edges of the pin on both sides as they look a little deformed. Then alternately heat both ends of pin only not the bosses until the pin is red. Walk away for an hour or two. You may have to lance out the pin center if it don't free up. It looks as if the barrel is in a weldment surround on that forklift. Is dis-assembly on machine a possibility?
 

Dream

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Dallas can tell me how crappy my welds are.
And I won't care.
View attachment 389582

#notawelder
I ain't gonna be a dick Ed.
Just gonna offer a little advice with no critique and no explanation.
Mig gun needs a CLEAN surface to bond to.
That means grind or clean off a spot for the ground clamp first of all. Might even want to think about flap wheeling off LOTRs "practice" spooges on it, but mostly the faces of the clamps.
Then id take a "cheek poker"(knotted wire wheel) to the proposed weld area and get all that rust cleaned off until its shiny. If theres an open crack, or open crack with metal displaced, take a die grinder or whatever fits in there and make it all as clean and shiney as possible, even if it opens a bit of a gap. Clean solid metal over a larger gap is better than porous, contaminant-filled garbage over a smaller gap.
There is "some" penetration on the "toe"(axle housing side) of that weld, but none on the flange side.
Sorry, guess I'm still being a Dik.
That needs to be ground out and have another go at er.
Mig welders are like that. They arent forgiving of rust/dirt/grease etc, and they dont give you as much control of where you point the "heat"(IE controlling arc to direct more heat to one side of the joint, or overall heat control).
You sed you wasnt a welder, so I aint breaking your bawls. Just some observations...n stuffs.
 

Dream

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Grind down the flowered edges of the pin on both sides as they look a little deformed. Then alternately heat both ends of pin only not the bosses until the pin is red. Walk away for an hour or two. You may have to lance out the pin center if it don't free up. It looks as if the barrel is in a weldment surround on that forklift. Is dis-assembly on machine a possibility?
Completely agree with Tim here.
I will add to spray with your favorite penetrant before and after heat cyles as a way to loosen rust, if thats the problem.
Ive also had luck with medium heat, then spray once penetrant doesnt steam off, then tapping with soft(brass) hammer if its accessible. If you can get it moving from both ends, then work back and forth. If you have the time, sometimes less is more.
Its stuck because its either rusted and swollen, or worn and mushroomed in one part of the bore.
Penetrant helps with rust.
Heating the fuch out of the pin and beating the lip off is the only hope for a worn pin that has a lip/shoulder.
Otherwise, airarc that bish out. Cant be a problem if its liquefied and blown into the next county.
 

Dream

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I blew a seal last week.....

Front pins came right out.


View attachment 389607


Rear pins will not budge, thoughts other than welding a bolt on it and using piece of pipe & washer as a puller?

Already tried heat and a BFH, it's not budging.


View attachment 389608
View attachment 389609
Maybe a dumb question, but do you have the mast cribbed at the bottom and braced off at the top to take the load off the pins?
If not, then thats why they wont come out.
 

Jscb1b

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dall

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Lnk

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Good morning men. Not going to critique Ed's welding as i have never mig welded. Prefer what i know, stick or tig. Cleanliness is always important, unless using 6011 rod. They don't call it a farmers rod for nothing. Happy hump day.

How's work @dall ?
 

legdelimber

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On the fork lift repair?
Don't be like my friend and put your finger through the pin hole to line it up while reinstalling the cylinder (jogging the valve).
Yep, He's minus a finger now.

Oh and the story gets even better?
I have a lifelong habit of setting parking brakes in anything that I drive, Including other folks vehicles.
Friend grabbed the brake release (his Ford pickup) and it turns out that the pedal is just perfectly aligned to smack the living crap out of that stubbed finger when you grab the brake release.
Mmmaaaajor ouch and a bit of fresh blood in the dressing.
 

redline4

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I ain't gonna be a dick Ed.
Just gonna offer a little advice with no critique and no explanation.
Mig gun needs a CLEAN surface to bond to.
That means grind or clean off a spot for the ground clamp first of all. Might even want to think about flap wheeling off LOTRs "practice" spooges on it, but mostly the faces of the clamps.
Then id take a "cheek poker"(knotted wire wheel) to the proposed weld area and get all that rust cleaned off until its shiny. If theres an open crack, or open crack with metal displaced, take a die grinder or whatever fits in there and make it all as clean and shiney as possible, even if it opens a bit of a gap. Clean solid metal over a larger gap is better than porous, contaminant-filled garbage over a smaller gap.
There is "some" penetration on the "toe"(axle housing side) of that weld, but none on the flange side.
Sorry, guess I'm still being a Dik.
That needs to be ground out and have another go at er.
Mig welders are like that. They arent forgiving of rust/dirt/grease etc, and they dont give you as much control of where you point the "heat"(IE controlling arc to direct more heat to one side of the joint, or overall heat control).
You sed you wasnt a welder, so I aint breaking your bawls. Just some observations...n stuffs.

Not being a dik. I can take critiquing.
That was a broken exhaust y pipe to manifold flange off a farm truck with 250,000 miles
I did flap wheel it.
It also doesn't help our 220 welder is running 035 wire with 040 tips and has a 25 year old cable liner..
The pipe had cracked due to whomever installed the Jasper trans left 2 of the 3 fasteners off, and the cowboy blasting it through the field drove it with no care about the exhaust leak.
I do see where your coming from though.
Those y pipes with converters used to be $1200. Price jumped in the last year to $4700..
 
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