New to Porting

[Nutball]

Oil it and full rpm, adjust pressure accordingly

OK, I've been avoiding full rpm as per recommendations (on aluminum) and fear of chipping the burrs on hard metals like steel.

Thanks

My 2188 has always been a problem for me trying to start without decomp. Mainly because its just easier to use the decomp and I didn't want to risk breaking the starter as sometimes it didn't want to recoil all the way after a hard pull. I've started a 660 and 661 multiple times without decomp. Maybe its the elastostart, just an inch of stretch can make a huge difference.

 

[Deets066]

OK, I've been avoiding full rpm as per recommendations (on aluminum) and fear of chipping the burrs on hard metals like steel.

Thanks

My 2188 has always been a problem for me trying to start without decomp. Mainly because its just easier to use the decomp and I didn't want to risk breaking the starter as sometimes it didn't want to recoil all the way after a hard pull. I've started a 660 and 661 multiple times without decomp. Maybe its the elastostart, just an inch of stretch can make a huge difference.

288 has a smaller diameter starter if I’m not mistaken

 

[mdavlee]

288 are harder to start with the small pulley. I did one at 235 lbs that felt locked up. [emoji23]

 

[srcarr52]

288 are harder to start with the small pulley. I did one at 235 lbs that felt locked up. [emoji23]

I have a 288 at 220 lbs. pulling it over without the decomp isn’t an option till it’s warm. Then you might be able to stop start it.

 

[mdavlee]

I have a 288 at 220 lbs. pulling it over without the decomp isn’t an option till it’s warm. Then you might be able to stop start it.

It was a KS jug without a decomp so there wasn’t any helping

 

[beaglebriar]

It was a KS jug without a decomp so there wasn’t any helping

I have the same jug on my 288. Don't know what the compression is at but it's ridiculous to the point that I don't really care to run it. It's going to get a decomp jug asap.

 

[mdavlee]

I have the same jug on my 288. Don't know what the compression is at but it's ridiculous to the point that I don't really care to run it. It's going to get a decomp jug asap.

The guy that bought it had a decomp drilled and tapped center of the chamber. It worked out good. You don’t mind a new hole in the top cover

 

[Nutball]

I have found the straight porting tool (44mc) is my go to hand tool. I just haven't found much use for the 90 degree tools. I want to use them, so I decided to give them a try, and just can't figure out how to use them. The shanks are way too long for the 182, and the tiny 300 tool doesn't let the shank pass all the way through, so they are just too long also, and are not reversible. I simply can't control the torque that twists the handle from grinding perpendicular to the handle and from grinding sharp port edges. How the heck do you guys use these things and what fer? I couldn't get any good angles in a 30mm bore, yea that's on the small side, but the 300amcm is proportionally small too.

I guess I'll just have to bevel port edges with a ball burr on the 44mc and forget about doing much of any work deep inside the transfers. Maybe if I had a reversible 45 degree 300amcm...

 

[mdavlee]

I cut bits down just for transfer work. 44mm is the smallest cylinders I ever worked on. I use both hands and sweep the tool in one direction only in transfers.

 

[dustinwilt68]

I have a 288 Mahle jug, just needs drilled and tapped for decomp, boss is there though.

 

[Nutball]

I think I prefer dry grinding over dipping in oil and having to clear lumps of shavings out of the way. I practiced fingers on a 200t and a couple 290 cylinders just for fun and practice since they're $20 cylinders. Not easy seeing what I'm doing in the 290

 

[Nutball]

I just got the hang of the right angle tool. With all the extra angles to worry about I was forgetting to position it in a way it would try to pull away from my hand instead of toward it or in an unsupported direction.

A 028 I'm working on

 

[Deets066]

I just got the hang of the right angle tool. With all the extra angles to worry about I was forgetting to position it in a way it would try to pull away from my hand instead of toward it or in an unsupported direction.

A 028 I'm working on

Glass bead works nice huh

 

[Nutball]

Glass bead? Whatever that is it gives me a good idea. When working on that cylinder yesterday I was thinking what hard mirror smooth perfectly round piece of metal do I have that I could polish with? Maybe glass beads would work?

 

[beaglebriar]

He's referring to the bead blasted surface.

 

[beaglebriar]

Me thinks..

 

[Nutball]

Porting saws is fun work, I think I'd like to port Echos professionally when ever I'm not doing tree removals. I sold that 028 and 026 cylinders mentioned earlier in this thread months ago for cheap to see if they'd work, and got good feedback. I recently sold a 2511t to a guy I cut trees for after he saw mine, and he's liking it. Now that I have a lathe it looks like I gained a few more seconds in a 10" Ash log with the most recent 2511t I worked on. I'm going to try building a little racer of a 2511 to bring to the GTG.

 

[Marshy]

Gents, happy new year. I'm looking for some advise that might be slightly off topic so please excuse me. Do anyone have a good source for burrs? Is there an assortment that you would recommend for a newly. I have a harbor freight fleet shaft grinder and was considering these burrs because they are 1/4 shank and I have gift cards to Summit racing... thanks.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/apt-2181/

 

[Nutball]

That set looks too big for chainsaw engines. Most of my burrs are 1/4" max except for one or two. The rest range down to about 1/16 or so. I buy from a place on eBay. I prefer egg and rounded tree shapes. 1/4 shank is best, but 1/8 can help reach through ports better.

 

[Al Smith]

I look at a mini die grinder (Dremel ) as a hand held milling machine .As a result you have to constantly remember if you are conventionally cutting or "climb " milling and what the reaction of the tool will be .Some times a mirror and a brilliant light helps but the image in a mirror is exactly 180 degrees from what is actually there .I personally only do a little bit at a time and try to think it out before I make the first cut .It's not a race .Once it's off it's next to impossible to glue it back on .You don't have to run the tool wide open either .
As far as cutters high speed steel works well ,Diamonds and fine carbide will clog up and not clear the chips .Stones will clog up .Tiny felt fobs and compound will leave a nice finish . Craytex is not nearly as fast as steel which can be a good thing and it leaves a smooth enough finish----and that's my 2 cents worth .