New saw or Mod????

[ElevatorGuy]

50cc and 70cc pro saws are just a great combo. I, like many, started with a 60cc pro saw and nearly never use it anymore.

Keep your eyes open for a top-handle saw next!

Lol, my last single saw was a 60cc. The I got my top handle which I use all the time. Sold the 60 when I got the 70 and now want a 50. It doesn’t end! Op, this place is going to cost you money. Leave now if you’re worried about that!

 

[drf256]

I was a 60cc guy as well. The most versatile size for the average homeowner/firewood guy. They kinda sit once you realize a 50 is so much lighter and nimble for cleanups and limbing and a 70cc brings home the bacon faster than the 60. My 60’s still sit as well.

 

[HuskyHead]

Alright as promised more photos and video after startup. So I don’t believe the guy ever believed in cleaning it, I should drop a pound off of the power head after getting it clean. Pretty sure I’ll need a new filter right off the bat. Didn’t notice before but the clutch cover is cracked, should I replace or nah? Does the sprocket look worn? Removed the pull rope, anything of concern in there? Also was missing a screw from the recoil starter cover? Is there suppose to be a rubber strip under the air filter cause there was a bunch of wood chips perfectly placed to go in the carb after pulling the filter?

 

[Czed]

Alright as promised more photos and video after startup. So I don’t believe the guy ever believed in cleaning it, I should drop a pound off of the power head after getting it clean. Pretty sure I’ll need a new filter right off the bat. Didn’t notice before but the clutch cover is cracked, should I replace or nah? Does the sprocket look worn? Removed the pull rope, anything of concern in there? Also was missing a screw from the recoil starter cover? Is there suppose to be a rubber strip under the air filter cause there was a bunch of wood chips perfectly placed to go in the carb after pulling the filter?

I'd change the clutch cover
It'll eventually snap off and may be a concern
Nice saw just needs scrubbed down.

 

[huskihl]

Can usually get a used clutch cover off eBay for $20 or so

 

[Woodslasher]

I've got a used wide discharge cover with buggered dog bolt holes I'd sell for cheap.

 

[drf256]

Should be able to reuse filter. Hit it with come compressed air. Do the same in the flywheel area.

The rim sprocket is toast. Get another.

You can run that clutch cover. When it falls apart you’ll get another.

 

[HuskyHead]

I've got a used wide discharge cover with buggered dog bolt holes I'd sell for cheap.

Are they holes still useable for dogs?

 

[HuskyHead]

Should be able to reuse filter. Hit it with come compressed air. Do the same in the flywheel area.

The rim sprocket is toast. Get another.

You can run that clutch cover. When it falls apart you’ll get another.

Should I replace the whole rim sprocket?(Bearing, cover and sprocket)

 

[jakethesnake]

Should I replace the whole rim sprocket?(Bearing, cover and sprocket)

I’d just pop a new rim sprocket on. I can usually get a couple sprockets worn out without changing bearings

the cover is cosmetic. Basically change it if you want. I’d run it.

 

[pwheel]

Should I replace the whole rim sprocket?(Bearing, cover and sprocket)

Definitely replace the sprocket. Rock the clutch drum back and forth to check for excessive play. Check the needle bearing to see if it's relatively clean and has been consistently lubricated. Running a dry/gunked-up bearing will wear the drum bore eventually and potentially scuff the crankshaft. Also, check the inside of the drum rim for excessive brake wear.

You might as well replace the clutch cover before the old one breaks, probably while you've got wood to cut, and you're down a saw until you can replace it.

Chances are that everything else will be fine, but that's part of the deal with a used saw.

 

[HuskyHead]

Definitely replace the sprocket. Rock the clutch drum back and forth to check for excessive play. Check the needle bearing to see if it's relatively clean and has been consistently lubricated. Running a dry/gunked-up bearing will wear the drum bore eventually and potentially scuff the crankshaft. Also, check the inside of the drum rim for excessive brake wear.

You might as well replace the clutch cover before the old one breaks, probably while you've got wood to cut, and you're down a saw until you can replace it.

Chances are that everything else will be fine, but that's part of the deal with a used saw.

THANKS to everyone! I agree about the clutch cover, but the paint won’t match lol

 

[Woodslasher]

Are they holes still useable for dogs?

pm inbound.

 

[drf256]

THANKS to everyone! I agree about the clutch cover, but the paint won’t match lol

Can drill end of crack also.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Buying a used saw is rarely a bad idea if your prepared for a little preventative maintenance.
Obviously the previous owner was not that fastidious about cleaning so that should speak volumes about other wear items. Fuel line, carburetor kit, fuel filter, impulse line, clutch springs, rim sprocket,spark plug, and decarbon the muffler. These are the normal things I go through with just about every saw,but in return I get reliability and a peice of mind.

 

[HuskyHead]

Buying a used saw is rarely a bad idea if your prepared for a little preventative maintenance.
Obviously the previous owner was not that fastidious about cleaning so that should speak volumes about other wear items. Fuel line, carburetor kit, fuel filter, impulse line, clutch springs, rim sprocket,spark plug, and decarbon the muffler. These are the normal things I go through with just about every saw,but in return I get reliability and a peice of mind.

Agreed, I’ve cleaned it really good. Guy that sold it said that he just had the carb and plug replaced, both look new so no doubts there. I am having a fuel leak though, still trying to identify if it’s the line or the stupid flippy caps. But a few of the dealers in my area have parts on hand for the saw so that works out good.

 

[pwheel]

... I am having a fuel leak though, still trying to identify if it’s the line or the stupid flippy caps...

Stihl flippy caps fail with regularity; I keep at least one spare. Maybe the fuel line is cracked between the fuel tank exit and the carb, but not likely. Cracked fuel tank - rare.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Agreed, I’ve cleaned it really good. Guy that sold it said that he just had the carb and plug replaced, both look new so no doubts there. I am having a fuel leak though, still trying to identify if it’s the line or the stupid flippy caps. But a few of the dealers in my area have parts on hand for the saw so that works out good.

Most leaks will occur at the tank vent or flippy cap o-ring, for me . The vent is often overlooked, but if its gummed up with old fuel or disintegrated from carb cleaner it'll leak.

 

[HuskyHead]

Most leaks will occur at the tank vent or flippy cap o-ring, for me . The vent is often overlooked, but if its gummed up with old fuel or disintegrated from carb cleaner it'll leak.

Thanks I’ll check there and it makes sense since it seems to occurs when the saw sits for a period.

Also ran the saw tonight bucked a small limb and cut a cookie off a log. Saw ran really good and pulled hard but it won’t stay idling and tends to have a bog if the throttle is blipped. Also after it dies tends to be stubborn restarting without going to full choke and will die once it starts if the chain brake is on when goes to high idle(obviously cause the chain can’t run). Going to play with the carb adjustments to see where I can get with it. Also noticed when I changed the rim sprocket that the internal clutch was pretty rusted. Last thing it looks like the internals are in awesome shaped, removed the plug and the piston top still looks pretty shiny.

*Log in picture was not the one I cut tonight*

 

[Czed]

Thanks I’ll check there and it makes sense since it seems to occurs when the saw sits for a period.

Also ran the saw tonight bucked a small limb and cut a cookie off a log. Saw ran really good and pulled hard but it won’t stay idling and tends to have a bog if the throttle is blipped. Also after it dies tends to be stubborn restarting without going to full choke and will die once it starts if the chain brake is on when goes to high idle(obviously cause the chain can’t run). Going to play with the carb adjustments to see where I can get with it. Also noticed when I changed the rim sprocket that the internal clutch was pretty rusted. Last thing it looks like the internals are in awesome shaped, removed the plug and the piston top still looks pretty shiny.

*Log in picture was not the one I cut tonight*

It sounds like the low speed jet.
When it's warm adjust the low speed jet
In until the chain starts to spin
Then back it off so it doesn't spin.
Check out some YouTube tuning vids as well.