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New Guy with lots of question on Farmertec 066 and 070

Kalamojakka

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Maybe I'll weigh in, because I think I can relate a little to OP's sentiment. I'm currently building a 660. I have very little prior experience with motors. I work as a nurse, but have been heating my house with wood for a couple years, and enjoy puttering with wood projects. My saws are currently an ms180 and an echo cs590. I've been milling a little with my echo and Granberg small log mill.

I've wanted a larger saw for about a year now, but have been loath to purchase one, because I honestly don't feel like I am experienced enough to properly care for a big brand new saw. I don't want to spend the money on one until I understand how the thing works. Thus, I bought the 660 kit almost as soon as I learned it was a thing.

I don't know if it will run well or give me lots of problems. It's been fun working on it, and I've learned a ton about how chainsaws work. It might be time for you to just choose a kit and dive in!
 

MustangMike

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I had a lot of experience with auto and lawn mower motors, but building a kit from scratch is definitely a learning experience, and the nice thing is the parts are clean so it can be don indoors!!! It also provided me with a low cost opportunity to learn a little bit about porting these things!
 

drf256

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Only thing I can add is the the parts “look clean”.

At least in my case, with the 660 kit, there were metal filings between the bearings and the seals and in the bearings themselves. It was kinda hidden. I pulled the seals and rinsed the bearings and case halves and used an oem gasket seal kit, even though the supplied seals looked pretty good.
 

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Al is absolutely correct … I flush ALL my Asian bearings with WD-40 before even turning them, and I wipe the insides of the cases clean.

I should have stated that they don't need to be degreased!
 

Nutball

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I took a syringe with blunt needle to inject WD-40 several times into my kit's bearings until I could finally spin them several times without any catches. I could see metal shaving getting washed out.

I'd recommend using the MMWS Cross cylinder kit because of it's good port timing will give the saw better performance.

Also, I don't think the 070 has antivibe correct?, so it could be painful on the hands.
 

Absolution

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I took a syringe with blunt needle to inject WD-40 several times into my kit's bearings until I could finally spin them several times without any catches. I could see metal shaving getting washed out.

I'd recommend using the MMWS Cross cylinder kit because of it's good port timing will give the saw better performance.

Also, I don't think the 070 has antivibe correct?, so it could be painful on the hands.

Hard bodies are not that painful like everyone makes it out to be.
 

Nutball

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I think it depends on how often it is used, and how bad the vibration is. Years ago I ran a 38cc poulan for a few months before it finally got to me. Just kind of painful or just plain uncomfortable to use much. My poulan blower has been like that too lately. It seems like it is vibrating more than usual. I couldn't imagine 100cc with no anti vibe.
 

DaveInGA

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Lehman, n

That mill setup is sick. Can we get a pic from all angles to see how it's put together?


On the vibration issue: This saw is only going to be used for milling. I'll likely get/build a 660 as well when they come back in stock and we have more time.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Personally like the 090’s vibrations aren’t bad in my opinion, I can mill all day and not have sore hands. Nice high torque saw and weight doesn’t matter so much on a mill. Also like .404 for milling in case I hit stuff in yard trees
 

DaveInGA

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The mill is made with cheap garage rollers and a few cheaper bearings from a garage door. Some square tube and a small trailer winch.

Gotta love using off the shelf affordable items to make something that makes a job so much easier to control. I'm guessing your cost on that nice mill is much less than those monsters with the electric motors they show on outfits like April Wilkerson/youtube. Her setup had to have cost a fortune and would defeat the cost benefit for the average homeowner/woodworker. Sure wish I could weld. One skill I lack and I'm too old to learn now due to arthritis, can't handle the steel.
 

Absolution

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Welding is pretty simple alittle bit of learning curve but not hard what so ever.. If you or your stepson want to lern I highly recommend starting with stick. If you master stick mig will be a piece of cake and tig will come easier for you to learn.

Recently I bought a vulcan omnipro 220. So far I've been very pleased with it, it puts some of my older equipment to shame. Only down side is that it only runs dc so no aluminum tig without helium which is much more expensive now compared to argon. Plus helium tig is a hotter burning than Argon AC.... Also not as pretty.....

Yesterday I ordered a primeweld 225 which is a ac/dc tig/stick. Off Amazon it's 775 with pretty much everything you need. With a really nice tig torch at that. What sold me was the features to the price and the praise I saw in all the reviews. Only negative thing I read was the foot pedal was iffy.

Edit: I also know vulcan which is a harbor freight brand had an ac/dc tig but I'm not seeing it on their website anymore and on ebay it was more expensive than the prime weld. I also don't know anything about it.
Hoods I would recommend a auto dimming one. The vulcan I bought is pretty nice. Only thing I don't like is the dimmer control is inside hood.



IMG_20190709_123334_214.jpg
 
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Absolution

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Also to my last post, before someone replies something. This is my opinion. If you go to any formal school they will teach STICK first and I can understand why. A monkey can run a MIG, It is the easiest form of welding available to the masses.

However If we can be hypothetical if you take two people, One who has only ran MIG (GMAW) and one who has ran STICK (SMAW) for years. Now take those two people and give them a basic lesson in TIG (GTAW). The one who learned STICK will have the advantage since STICK is much more sensitive to user error watching ARC height and maintaining it mainly.

Now this doesn't mean this person who learned STICK will pick up TIG will be able to run it right off the bat. It's just less cumbersome, the best way I can describe learning TIG is like riding a bicycle expect The bikes on fire, the road is on fire and you have to figure out how to ride it without burning cause Satan is behind you. You will eat though electrodes, have misshapen puddles, bad penetration, and ETC. TIG is also a process you have to have lowish air movement as in a shop/garage or a portable tent in order for good gas coverage. (Same goes for MIG just slightly less headache)

At this point you might be asking why the hell anyone would ever run a TIG. There are upsides, when running right you will have amazing penetration for the heat distributed. Speaking of heat there's less of it put though the work piece (*Arguable*). You will be able to work with stupid thin metals compared to MIG/STICK (With a good machine). You will have ZERO I mean ZERO splatter with TIG. ( When both you and Machine are running right) Also if it's metal it's probably weld able with TIG. Those are just some of the benefits to running TIG off the top of my head.

Now something that MIG does great. PRODUCTION!
With MIG you can literally run forever (joking) because you can keep a continuous weld going where both STICK and TIG can't. The least amount of splatter I've seen has been running STARGAS where commonly it's 25% Co2 and 75 Argon OR 100% Co2 depending on wire that is.

Now there is Shielded MIG wire which is gas-less. But you are talking splatter city. It can also lead to porosity if it is damp. Some say it would be awesome for pipeline welders However I can see a partial argument against it. Once it gets damp it's done. I can't bake it in a metal oven like a STICK and dry it out. Since it's on a plastic roll. Once it's damp it's going to splatter even worse and have a higher chance of porosity.

If you have questions message me.
I would not consider myself the greatest of all time but I can attempt to answer questions if you have them and if I can't answer them I can get them from people I would consider the greatest of all time. This goes for anyone on this site.

Attached are some sexy TIG welds. (Just from a quick search)
 

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lehman live edge slab

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For building stuff like this mill a mig or stick welder with 3/32 is all that’s needed. You can buy a Hobart handler 140 for 5-600$ and run flux core in it or add a little more for a gas kit. Otherwise hop up to the 190 handler for with a gas kit and a cart. You’ll want flux core outside on all but the calmest days anyway. And a small ac/dc stick like a Lincoln 125/225 stick welder is also in the 500$ range. I personally will not buy a no name machine they change to often or go out of business. So instead of brand x buy a Lincoln, Miller, Hobart or thermal arc. The money spent on the cheap one will be lost when it breaks and nobody can get parts or a diagram to fix it. I also am by no means the best but have been welding 24-25 years and rarely see a name brand machine go down but many harbor freight types have. And if you do run across aluminum that needs a weld or want to build a frame out of aluminum angle as long as the material is at least 3/16” I’ve welded with Hobart aluminum stick and had good results.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Cheap automatic hoods aren’t real tig friendly either they like to go light and dark with the high frequency ac.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Where I went to weld school we learned gas first, then stick, then wire flux and gas shield and last tig. Also learned oxygen lance and air arc along with gas torch cutting. Even some gouge tips for oxy acetylene torch though it’s very rare to use it.
 
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