New Boys and a box of 660 parts

[jhixf564]

My son and I bought a 660 kit to build. We got it in today and looked and talked about it for about an hour. We are going to start on it this weekend. Our plans our to build it along the lines of Mustang Mikes recommendations. We cut about 50 tons of saw logs and pulpwood a month. This saw will be used and when it breaks we will fix it. My son thinks it’s interesting and we are gonna have a go.

I ordered an OEM piston bearing today. We bought a Meteor piston and and a highway gasket set. We printed off a degree wheel and are gonna try to figure it out when it comes time. We just want to clean it up and run it, so when we port it (try) or upgrade it. That we can fail and do it again or smile with the accomplishment.

Tips, ideas, ridicule are greatly appreciated!

 

[Lightning Performance]

Check out the rod bearing real good for excessive slop.
The rest has been covered a lot.
Check that case pin behind the clutch. They move in some kits, I read.

GL
Red or blue?

 

[Nutball]

Red or blue?

Red???

 

[jhixf564]

Define excessive slop for a man that runs 5 gallons of mix a month, but never fixed anything other than a carb swap. I have a mic and can measure play from side to side.

 

[Nutball]

Just be sure to clean off all left over magnesium grit they leave on the parts: inside crank case and oil tank (and all over really, so you don't recontaminate parts), take apart the oil pump and thoroughly clean the metal grit out with pressurized soap water (from a syringe and blunt needle) and a cotton swab and tooth pick (water is good, but scraping via swab is better). Use a syringe and blunt needle to rinse out the crank bearings several times each with WD40 until no more metal flakes come out and they can be spun several timed smoothly without binding.

Grease the groove inside the crank seals where it will touch the shaft. Modify the oil pump for further piston travel while it is apart.

EDIT: keep checking for updates as I often edit my posts

Bevel the inner and outer edges of the oil pickup line hole on the crank case to be sure the line won't get cut when the oil pump presses against it.

The crank will likely push a bearing seal out on one side, push the rubber part back in place with a toothpick.

 

[jhixf564]

Thanks! Started a check list.

 

[MustangMike]

I flush all the bearings with WD-40 (including the large rod bearing) to remove any grit, and when you port the cylinder make sure all ports are properly chamfered. Often overlooked is the lower exhaust port, you have to "feel" it, as you can't see it.

Run good oil and mix (I like Saber at 40:1) and it should hold up very well. (The Asian bearings may be a bit softer than OEM and need better lubrication), and ported saws always need better lubrication anyway.

Good Luck with the build and keep us posted.

 

[jhixf564]

I’ve run Amsoil for 20 years. Really like the saber. I did buy a 6 pack of ultra with the new saw I bought this year. I used one bottle and took the rest back and gave it to the dealer. It stinks! I mean it smells horrible. Thanks for the tips.

 

[MustangMike]

When making your own timing wheel, check the degrees in both directions. If your wheel is not "perfect" you can average the two #s. (ie If you wheel says the Intake is 80 when rotating one way and 84 when rotating the other way either you marked TDC wrong, or the center of your wheel is a bit off. Either way, you can go with 82 as the correct #).

 

[Nutball]

I run mine on 32:1 just to be safe. All my other saws run 40:1

 

[jhixf564]

I ran 50:1 for years. My saw dealer told me to run 40:1 in my stuff when I bought a new pole saw 15 years ago due to all of them burning up in the area. I asked him about it when I bought this new saw since it was a M-tronic. He told me to keep on. I have an empty can around for some 32:1.

 

[jhixf564]

Do y’all cut the wings off all the cir-clips or just the farmertec ones. The ones that came with the meteor piston have them. The farmertec ones don’t have any?

 

[Nutball]

I cut them off, then sand the sharp edges a bit.

I had one cheap kit recently come with both kinds (4 clips total)

 

[jhixf564]

Thanks

 

[Czed]

Local logger bought a built 660 saw
last year he's still running it as it came from huztl
It paid for itself the first month cutting hickory he said.
If it goes down he'll buy another
I'm running 365/372s with the china bearings
No failures.

 

[MustangMike]

I like to use OEM clips, even if they are used ones, but Meteor s/b good stuff.

 

[jhixf564]

My son and I finished up our quota for this week. We are gonna try to use that sundial and figure out the timing numbers. I’ll post them up if we can figure it out.

 

[Nutball]

I'll bet it's around
EX: 94
TR: 124
IN: 81
Sq: .018

I'm working on porting one, practicing cutting the transfers higher with a little cutoff wheel like others say works well, but visibility for such a task is near zero without a fancy way of getting a lot of light into the cylinder. The left port went well enough, but I butchered the right. Luckily, if The Lying Thief knew his stuff, I can go higher with them to fix it since I already had 30deg blowdown stock, and maybe came up 1/4 of that. I'm trying to make a short bar runner out of it.

 

[jhixf564]

Without a base gasket you can’t spin it over by hand. We messed with the degree wheel and got-
Exhaust 94
Intake 88
Transfers at 122
Squish is 15 or 16

I don’t know if it is right, but it was a pain until my 13 year old explained what was happening from TDC all the way through. He started getting bored after the tenth time through! We stopped and he weedeated while I mowed.

 

[Nutball]

They didn't give you a good start except for short bar use.