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Narrow kerf not making a difference

Squish9

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Looking for some help on this one. Short version is as follows

DCS460. 16", 66DL bars
325 SP33G chain - Huskies 325 pixel (NK) chain
325 S35G chain - Husky 058 semi

Total difference in overall kerf width is 0.8mm (38 thou) or 11.5% overall

Difference in cut speed was around 3% (average 11.1 vs 11.5) so within the margin of error.

Any ideas why the 10+% difference in kerf isn't having an effect on the cut speed? I always thought it would but I'm doubting it now. Both these chains where significantly faster than Oregon's NK (95TXL)

Has anyone else tested this and if so, what was the result?

There is a video but it's mostly more talking crap. Skip to around the 2 min mark to see it cutting

 
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Squish9

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Are you using a NK bar with the NK chain?

Philbert
Yes. Ran 2 different bars because 050 normal kerf chain is hard to come by here so I had to use a 050 and 058 setup. One bar is a 058 to suit the S35G and the other is a Husky pixel 050 bar for the NK.

The NK bar is 0.6mm narrower compared to the other bar (3.8mm vs 4.4mm)
 

Philbert

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A lot of people miss that detail!

Not sure if the newer, STIHL, narrower kerf chain requires a narrower kerf bar.

I don’t know who is promising a 10% improvement in speed. Might have been in softwood? In green wood?

It came OEM (‘Husq’ labeled Oregon chain) on a Husky 353, many years ago, and I liked it.

I think of it as letting a saw cut like it has more power / displacement, rather than increased speed.

Philbert
 

Squish9

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A lot of people miss that detail!

Not sure if the newer, STIHL, narrower kerf chain requires a narrower kerf bar.

I don’t know who is promising a 10% improvement in speed. Might have been in softwood? In green wood?

It came OEM (‘Husq’ labeled Oregon chain) on a Husky 353, many years ago, and I liked it.

I think of it as letting a saw cut like it has more power / displacement, rather than increased speed.

Philbert
I had always assumed it would provide a benefit to cut speed but I'm not sure any more. There is a noticeable difference in the reaction force between then so it is nicer to use, just not any faster.

Thinking about it a bit more, the hardest work is severing the fibres with the corner / side plate, and cutting a smaller or larger kerf is really only reducing the work of the top plate. Since that has the relatively easy job of just planning out a chip, it probably won't have that big of an impact on cutting speed

I think this is one of those the more you know the less you realise you know cases. At least I didn't see this being the result
 

mainer_in_ak

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Those little safety bumps on both those .325 chains, bind up with wood dust against the drive links. Especially on smaller cc saws, the extra friction slows em down.

Try a gb narrow kerf bar with a loop of 63pmx and a loop of 63ps. Will need to run a bar adaptor and a gb 3/8 lp rim sprocket. Both would slap that goofy husq .325 safety chain silly. The pmx will retain sharpness longer.

These 20" bars are so dmn good, I get them shipped from AUS to Alaska for milling with the g777 small mill. The pmx chain comes from logosol-sweden.

20221026-131643.jpg

20230321-140833.jpg
 

Squish9

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Those little safety bumps on both those .325 chains, bind up with wood dust against the drive links. Especially on smaller cc saws, the extra friction slows em down.

Try a gb narrow kerf bar with a loop of 63pmx and a loop of 63ps. Will need to run a bar adaptor and a gb 3/8 lp rim sprocket. Both would slap that goofy husq .325 safety chain silly. The pmx will retain sharpness longer.
I have run a 3/8LP setup on this saw in the past but went back to running a 058 hard nose bar because it oddly prefers to run full size 3/8. Its main use now is cleaning up all the small stuff and the 325 chains are really good at that. Got a good deal on the husky bars and wanted to try the NK setup so this is mostly for my on curiosity.

Don't write these off a just safety chains, they both cut extremely well for what they are, extremely close to the 23RS / 23RM pros.


I have both the 23RS and RM pros but in a different size. Both are very good chains and almost impossible to pick them apart. the RM pro's corner in only very slightly rounded and the difference in cut speed between them isn't big.

I'm going to break down the sp33g to suit the 62dl bar so it can run with the 23's but looking at how all these out cut the 20lgx I had as a reference, there isn't much difference between them
 

FederalQ

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I know the sp33g that came with my 550xpg would not bore cut with the Husqvarna bar. I bought a Sugihara .325 .050 for it and and then it would. It’s like 4.2mm thick (.165”) and accommodates NK chain. The Stihl 23rs cuts well and the Husqvarna pixel sharpening jig will fit that chain so the chassis is indeed narrower than standard .325.
 

Woodslasher

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I think it only faster in saws without the HP to pull the bigger chain.
Negative, @davidwyby brought up an XS 346 with an 18"(?) narrow kerf bar and chain that I got to try out. It had enough balls to pull a 24" bar but that power with that little b/c combo made it freakin fast, smooth, and ideal for crappy conditions where other saws would get pinched all the time I could hardly put it down.
 

davidwyby

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Negative, @davidwyby brought up an XS 346 with an 18"(?) narrow kerf bar and chain that I got to try out. It had enough balls to pull a 24" bar but that power with that little b/c combo made it freakin fast, smooth, and ideal for crappy conditions where other saws would get pinched all the time I could hardly put it down.
IMG_6329.jpeg
 
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