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Muffler mod, how do you remove the chips grit?

stgdz

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Got a 195t that I'm going to open up the exit baffle, probably advance time, and do a retune. The saw has been run and likely has some oil on the inside. I was going to either use a carbide bur with a shop vac near by or a stone bit to enlarge it.

The last time I did a mod was to my cs590 and just used a step bit to make a side hole. Got most of the stuff out and so far had been fine.

I was thinking of either using some kerosene in the 195 to try and wash it out or a combination high pressure air and vacuum.
 

bogieboy

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When i did my ms194t, i used a carbide, blasted out what i needed to, then blew out with shop air, then parked the muffler in the solvent wash tank with the flow of solvent running thru the muffler, second step is likely overkill...
 

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You can burn the oily film with a torch. That will help it release the shavings. Then flush and scrub with harsh solvents. Water, air, scraper, solvent, repeat. You won’t get it all but the more you get and farther from the cylinder, the better.

Modding a 194t muffler doesn’t do much unless you open up the baffle on the inlet side. It’s a lot of grinding.
 

bogieboy

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You can burn the oily film with a torch. That will help it release the shavings. Then flush and scrub with harsh solvents. Water, air, scraper, solvent, repeat. You won’t get it all but the more you get and farther from the cylinder, the better.

Modding a 194t muffler doesn’t do much unless you open up the baffle on the inlet side. It’s a lot of grinding.
If you at least cut out the side of the baffle that leads to the exhaust port, and open up the exhaust port significantly (stock is like a 6mm hole) it makes quite the difference.... pulling 050 full chisel LP with a NASTY hook filed into it...

20240322_105938.jpg
20240325_091623.jpg

 

stgdz

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Modding a 194t muffler doesn’t do much unless you open up the baffle on the inlet side. It’s a lot of grinding.
Seems to be a bit zippier now with the timing advance and rejet.

I was looking at that baffle on the inside of that muffler. Do I drill out the top of the baffle or need to remove the entire baffle? Also, isn't the purpose of the baffle to increase pressure on the piston?
 

bogieboy

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Seems to be a bit zippier now with the timing advance and rejet.

I was looking at that baffle on the inside of that muffler. Do I drill out the top of the baffle or need to remove the entire baffle? Also, isn't the purpose of the baffle to increase pressure on the piston?
I personally ground out the entire side facing the mufflers exhaust port on mine, and added the dual exhaust ports. the baffle is there to cut sound levels the same way the miniscule exhaust opening does. Makes the pressure wave redirect, which makes it quieter.
 

Ketchup

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Seems to be a bit zippier now with the timing advance and rejet.

I was looking at that baffle on the inside of that muffler. Do I drill out the top of the baffle or need to remove the entire baffle? Also, isn't the purpose of the baffle to increase pressure on the piston?

The baffle has holes in it, take a radius end carbide burr and grind the holes bigger until they join. Then enlarge it to a hole almost as big as the baffle walls. Don’t worry about getting all the baffle out and be careful not to grind through the muffler wall or bolt tubes.

The stock muffler might create some back pressure, but the saw will run better without it.
 

drf256

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I let the mufflers sit in my hot USC the entire time I am working on the saw. Seems to get a lot of the sticky oily crud out of them before I grind and weld. Then I wash w soap and water, weld, then back into the USC. One more soap and water hit before paint. The heat from the welding seems to also help it.
 

stgdz

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So I'm having trouble adjusting the low speed on this thing. I got the high speed set but low is giving me problems.

I pulled the caps and set the low to 1.5 turns. On first startup it was obviously lean so I had to back it out about 1 turn to get the chain from spinning. Then I got the idle screw to get the chain to spin again.and went to backing out the low speed. And backing it out. And backing it out.

It didn't die or idle down and I was way outside of normal for adding fuel, but the sob would not idle down. I did find out that braping the throttle at low input would load it up and kill it. So I got to about 2.5 - 3 turns out before it wouldn't kill it off at low throttle inputs.

So what gives? Why couldn't I find the max fuel input on the low speed jet.
 

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So I'm having trouble adjusting the low speed on this thing. I got the high speed set but low is giving me problems.

I pulled the caps and set the low to 1.5 turns. On first startup it was obviously lean so I had to back it out about 1 turn to get the chain from spinning. Then I got the idle screw to get the chain to spin again.and went to backing out the low speed. And backing it out. And backing it out.

It didn't die or idle down and I was way outside of normal for adding fuel, but the sob would not idle down. I did find out that braping the throttle at low input would load it up and kill it. So I got to about 2.5 - 3 turns out before it wouldn't kill it off at low throttle inputs.

So what gives? Why couldn't I find the max fuel input on the low speed jet.
Start at 1 and 1
 

Ketchup

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So I'm having trouble adjusting the low speed on this thing. I got the high speed set but low is giving me problems.

I pulled the caps and set the low to 1.5 turns. On first startup it was obviously lean so I had to back it out about 1 turn to get the chain from spinning. Then I got the idle screw to get the chain to spin again.and went to backing out the low speed. And backing it out. And backing it out.

It didn't die or idle down and I was way outside of normal for adding fuel, but the sob would not idle down. I did find out that braping the throttle at low input would load it up and kill it. So I got to about 2.5 - 3 turns out before it wouldn't kill it off at low throttle inputs.

So what gives? Why couldn't I find the max fuel input on the low speed jet.

Everyone tunes differently, but I would put the L at 1 and then adjust the throttle to drop the chain speed. No need to keep moving the L out. If it bogs on throttle up, then find a different L position. No need to max out the jet.
 

Wilhelm

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In regards to this threads topic.

Split muffler, mod/gut, clean thoroughly , reassemble, weld if needed.
Even Stainless Steel can be welded easy enough with nowadays stick welding rods and/or flux core wire.

I can't relate to modifying/grinding anything that is "assembled" (muffler, cylinder)!
 

Moparmyway

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In regards to this threads topic.
Even Stainless Steel can be welded easy enough with nowadays stick welding rods and/or flux core wire.
These newer stainless steel mufflers from Stihl are SUPER thin and even good TIG welders are careful with them …….

Flux core and the new stainless mufflers ????
Yes, if done very carefully with spot welds as stitches

Stick and the new stainless mufflers ???
NO WAY
 

Wilhelm

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These newer stainless steel mufflers from Stihl are SUPER thin and even good TIG welders are careful with them …….

Flux core and the new stainless mufflers ????
Yes, if done very carefully with spot welds as stitches

Stick and the new stainless mufflers ???
NO WAY
Meh, nevermind me I am full of $#!t! :thumbsup:
 

David Young

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use a really good degreaser and it will likely take a lot of it out.
 
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