HELP! Ms460 Arctic parts robbed off saw

[Rondog]

I have a Ms460 I purchased that was an Arctic model for factory but the on /off switch is the only part still on the saw . I’m trying to restore it back to an Arctic . I have found a stator for it but need flywheel and elements and wire harness , I saw an old tread were someone had the parts and wanted $125 for them .but there probably long gone . Can anybody help me? Thanks !

 

[hacskaroly]

Welcome to the forum!! Isn't it great when someone gets in there and rips out all the good stuff? I have a Husky 272 XPG that someone clipped all of the heating element wires and swapped the front handle for a non heated one. I got the wires all connected back to the rear handle, so now I have a 1/2 heated handle saw, so its now a 272 XP½G.

 

[Rondog]

Yes the saw has been a project ,bought it on EBay and it ran but they tuned it around bad crank seals and the carb was garbage ! Runs good now

 

[Bill G]

Welcome to the forum!! Isn't it great when someone gets in there and rips out all the good stuff? I have a Husky 272 XPG that someone clipped all of the heating element wires and swapped the front handle for a non heated one. I got the wires all connected back to the rear handle, so now I have a 1/2 heated handle saw, so its now a 272 XP½G.

Heck 1/2 is better than nothing....

It is possible to make your loop handle heated. It is not easy, not pretty and definitely not cheap but possible. There is a member here that bought a new heated Stihl 261 from me. Of course those are only sold in 1/2 wrap versions. He bought a custom made full wrap for the saw and removed the heating elements from the 1/2 and used them on the full.

 

[hacskaroly]

Yeah, I have seen that, I think @Tor R detailed the process on Huskys in an older post. It doesn't get that cold here and I have other projects going. It was just happenstance that I found an XPG, bonus that I could get the rear handle heating again!

 

[ManiacalMark]

Which wiring do you need? I think I have all of it

 

[hacskaroly]

Which wiring do you need? I think I have all of it

The front handle was replaced with a non-heating element handle (standard handle). I have the wires connected back up to get the rear handle working - which it gets really hot, I think since it doesn't have the load of the front handle to share. I think I would just need the front handle element and then I can splice it into the current wiring.

 

[Tor R]

Yeah, I have seen that, I think @Tor R detailed the process on Huskys in an older post. It doesn't get that cold here and I have other projects going. It was just happenstance that I found an XPG, bonus that I could get the rear handle heating again!

On Husqvarna there is around 4 ohm resistance in the front handle, it has been on the 1xx - 5xx series, but the 5xx has a nicer heating element compared to the older ones.

What I have had to do in the past is take the heating element and use it on NLA handles, it does require caution when removing the element, however. The element is mostly on the underside of the handle.
You need a sharp Stanley knife, some electronics tape, I think it is brownish, a soldering iron, and wrap rubber.
PS, The critical area to cut is where the wires are soldered, it's the only place the heating element goes all the way around the handle.

 

[Tor R]

The front handle was replaced with a non-heating element handle (standard handle). I have the wires connected back up to get the rear handle working - which it gets really hot, I think since it doesn't have the load of the front handle to share. I think I would just need the front handle element and then I can splice it into the current wiring.

I wouldn't use the G with only the rear element working, it's the front handle that requires watts from the generator.
If you use only the rear I think there's a chance you'll damage the elements in the long run.

 

[500i's]

Heck 1/2 is better than nothing....

It is possible to make your loop handle heated. It is not easy, not pretty and definitely not cheap but possible. There is a member here that bought a new heated Stihl 261 from me. Of course those are only sold in 1/2 wrap versions. He bought a custom made full wrap for the saw and removed the heating elements from the 1/2 and used them on the full.

I have a 271 going to Polish, advanced timing and custom
wrap handle .

 

[hacskaroly]

If you use only the rear I think there's a chance you'll damage the elements in the long run.

Yeah, it got pretty hot on just a test run. Once I knew it got warm, I turned it off. If I need to use it before I get a front element, I may put a resistor or something inline to drop the load down some. Maybe I can attach a small spot light/head light so I can cut in the dark...