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Modded 394 lean tuning issue WTF...

wcorey

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I have a 394 that I did a fairly hot woods port on maybe 4 years ago, more or less a gtg toy, though it's not really too hot for a work saw.
Typical port widths/timing numbers, cut chamber and base, exhaust just has biggest hole possible under the stock deflector, stock wj39 and low top air filter, blows around 215 cold.

First year ran really well with no issues, mostly just gtg duty and the occasional large takedown, maybe ran a half dozen tanks through it.

The next gtg 'season', I noticed it was sometimes leaning out toward the end on extended cuts. Would run fine for a maybe a few long cuts then lean out again unpredictability, always a good way into the cut, very sneaky.
Could tune it out but then would suddenly run pig rich and I'd have to lean it back out to where it was originally.
Tried the usual obvious fixes with no success.

I have other big saws to use and always way too many waiting their turn on the bench, got frustrated and just shelved it till the next year.

Brought it to the next years gtg with the intent of figuring it out as I went, even though I had already checked misc everything probable including multiple passed press/vac tests, checked tank venting, int manifold integrity and changed out fuel line/filter. Swapped to still another known good carb, then did seals just to rule that out completely, no change, if anything was getting worse.
Tried still another carb, coil, ign timing..., stuff that shouldn't even matter but what hell at that point.

Shortly after that got used as a test mule for a bunch of 3-5 second dyno runs, software filter testing, initially they were short enough so it wouldn't go lean. (One interesting aside there is that the decomp was sticking open and it had no noticable effect on the peak hp #'s.)
The repeatability gave me a good idea of just how quickly and progressively worse it was getting.
Tried more fixes, likely many I'd done previously, don't even remember what.

After dozens of runs, it wouldn't even make the 3 seconds..., burble, burble... screeeeam...
Now totally consistent and repeatable. Could tune it so rich as to blow serious smoke on the spool up... for a second...
Shelved for yet another year.

Fast forward to present, gtg season right around the corner.
I miss the beast, just feel inadequate without it and an annoying reminder of my troubleshooting shortcomings, lol.
This time I'm fixing it come hell or high water, even if i have to swap every part but the p&c.
Have so much time into it by now, could have just built another one or three.

Pull it down, dust it off, still idles and tunes fine on the low side but can go out multiple turns on the H to no further effect and will burble for a second then runs away, over and over.
Have a good running stock saw that I've resisted canabalizing up to this point, decided to stop chasing my tail and just swap the cylinders on 'em.
Would have/should have done it sooner but in a way that was finally conceding to defeat. I hate that...


Guess what?
Problem now followed the cylinder.
Original modded problem saw now with stock muffler/cylinder runs fine.
Stock saw now with modded muff/cyl same old crazy rich>lean... Wtf...

Well..., I finally, finally figured it out, both saws now running great.
In retrospect of course it seems like something simple I should've figured out much sooner, actually a known issue pretty much specific to modded saws (hint hint).

Figured early on it's got to be an air leak or the fuel circuit/carb not delivering enough fuel... but...
What really messed with my reasoning was that it originally ran fine and the problem showed up later as a gradually deteriorating condition so I was focusing on finding something that could gradually go bad.
It wasn't, not directly anyway...

Any guesses on the what and why?
 

huskyboy

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Intake block cracked? Did you swap the intake block with the cylinder when you put ported cylinder on the stocker?
 

wcorey

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Decompressor stuck open? Very interesting summary, you listed everything I wouldve checked. Looking forward to full disclosure.

Not decomp.
Actually mentioned that it runs surprisingly well with the decomp stuck open.

That's just the short list of what I went through, lol.

If it's something silly then who knows. Lol

If it was that silly I hope it wouldn't have taken me three years to figure it out.
No, it's something specific to the fact it's ported and usually associated with particular model saws, I'm not sure if the 394 is typically one or not.
 

wcorey

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Intake block cracked? Did you swap the intake block with the cylinder when you put ported cylinder on the stocker?

No, and also mentioned as checked. That was done in the first round and probably multiple times after.
Manifold did stay with the cylinder though as its port matched.

Problem was nothing I said was specifically gone through in the original post.
 

huskyboy

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Did you swap carb too? Or intake gaskets? Just thinking.
 

lwhaples

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Wow, can't offer any info.Will be interesting to learn what you found.
 

wcorey

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Simondo

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I have a 394 that I did a fairly hot woods port on maybe 4 years ago, more or less a gtg toy, though it's not really too hot for a work saw.
Typical port widths/timing numbers, cut chamber and base, exhaust just has biggest hole possible under the stock deflector, stock wj39 and low top air filter, blows around 215 cold.

First year ran really well with no issues, mostly just gtg duty and the occasional large takedown, maybe ran a half dozen tanks through it.

The next gtg 'season', I noticed it was sometimes leaning out toward the end on extended cuts. Would run fine for a maybe a few long cuts then lean out again unpredictability, always a good way into the cut, very sneaky.
Could tune it out but then would suddenly run pig rich and I'd have to lean it back out to where it was originally.
Tried the usual obvious fixes with no success.

I have other big saws to use and always way too many waiting their turn on the bench, got frustrated and just shelved it till the next year.

Brought it to the next years gtg with the intent of figuring it out as I went, even though I had already checked misc everything probable including multiple passed press/vac tests, checked tank venting, int manifold integrity and changed out fuel line/filter. Swapped to still another known good carb, then did seals just to rule that out completely, no change, if anything was getting worse.
Tried still another carb, coil, ign timing..., stuff that shouldn't even matter but what hell at that point.

Shortly after that got used as a test mule for a bunch of 3-5 second dyno runs, software filter testing, initially they were short enough so it wouldn't go lean. (One interesting aside there is that the decomp was sticking open and it had no noticable effect on the peak hp #'s.)
The repeatability gave me a good idea of just how quickly and progressively worse it was getting.
Tried more fixes, likely many I'd done previously, don't even remember what.

After dozens of runs, it wouldn't even make the 3 seconds..., burble, burble... screeeeam...
Now totally consistent and repeatable. Could tune it so rich as to blow serious smoke on the spool up... for a second...
Shelved for yet another year.

Fast forward to present, gtg season right around the corner.
I miss the beast, just feel inadequate without it and an annoying reminder of my troubleshooting shortcomings, lol.
This time I'm fixing it come hell or high water, even if i have to swap every part but the p&c.
Have so much time into it by now, could have just built another one or three.

Pull it down, dust it off, still idles and tunes fine on the low side but can go out multiple turns on the H to no further effect and will burble for a second then runs away, over and over.
Have a good running stock saw that I've resisted canabalizing up to this point, decided to stop chasing my tail and just swap the cylinders on 'em.
Would have/should have done it sooner but in a way that was finally conceding to defeat. I hate that...


Guess what?
Problem now followed the cylinder.
Original modded problem saw now with stock muffler/cylinder runs fine.
Stock saw now with modded muff/cyl same old crazy rich>lean... Wtf...

Well..., I finally, finally figured it out, both saws now running great.
In retrospect of course it seems like something simple I should've figured out much sooner, actually a known issue pretty much specific to modded saws (hint hint).

Figured early on it's got to be an air leak or the fuel circuit/carb not delivering enough fuel... but...
What really messed with my reasoning was that it originally ran fine and the problem showed up later as a gradually deteriorating condition so I was focusing on finding something that could gradually go bad.
It wasn't, not directly anyway...

Any guesses on the what and why?
Fuel filter causing restriction when max flow is needed........modded saws need more fuel ??
 

paragonbuilder

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Multiple carb swaps...



No but warm, very warm...



Good call as that wasn't mentioned but no and I'm more than sure it got a few different ones.

Needle seat drilled bigger to feed carb?
Obviously it’s a fuel delivery issue and not an air leak.
Larger fuel filter, or gut it?
 

wcorey

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Fuel filter causing restriction when max flow is needed........modded saws need more fuel ??
The 3120 fuel filter is larger and should fit up to the fuel line. Pondered doing that to my saws.

A likely possibility but no.
Tried it running with no filter at all.

Impulse hole obstruction or impulse whole not aligned correctly due to cylinder base being machined ?

Another good possibilty but no...
 

wcorey

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Needle seat drilled bigger to feed carb?
Obviously it’s a fuel delivery issue and not an air leak.


Ding ding ding! Dan you da man!
Why didn't you fix it for me at your gtg two years ago?
Would have saved me all the harassment and derision from the stihl fan club, lol...

Seat started at .037", drilled out to .046, big improvement but not enough, finally went to .059.
Checked the feeds into the main jet also but they're huge. The H needle seat hole isn't real big either but it shares the total input capacity with the idle/transition jets and fixed main bypass.

So now that that's solved, why did it take so long for this issue to manifest?
Seems obvious but maybe there are other options?
 

Moparmyway

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So now that that's solved, why did it take so long for this issue to manifest?
Seems obvious but maybe there are other options?
More ethanol content now in your fuel than there was then

And/or

Different 2 cycle oil being used

Or colder temps now compared to then, so she needs more fuel
 

Chainsaw Jim

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it's something specific to the fact it's ported and usually associated with particular model saws, I'm not sure if the 394 is typically one or not.
The carb needing some work to catch up with the work you did to the saw was my first thought when I read the title. I wouldn't suggest carb modding as a troubleshooting step so I didn't say anything about it.
 
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