Milling finish tips?

[kneedeepinsaws]

I personally found today what causes the washboard effect, at least for me, when milling. Chain getting loose and coming off of the bar slightly is causing the washboard finish. I could literally see it making grooves every time it came away from the bar..
Chain was tight when I started, so it’s either dull and heating up, or I need to start using my wedges closer to the cut…
Yes this was milling chain that I file at about 10 degrees.

any tips, advice?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I’ve found/find when I when milling the chain needs to be super sharp. The duller it is the more washboard effect I got.

it’s better to try and keep the saw parallel to the log and resist semi noodling, as this also gives the washboard look

i also look at the sawdust, a bran sort of size is better than fine flour.

I monitor the pressure needed during the cut. as the more pressure needed either means dull chain (fine flour sawdust) or depth gauges need checking. I’ve found/seen the cutting speed change and more pressure needed when going through muddy patches of bark.
So if you can debark the log or miss the dirty bits it helps

wedges are needed, and more wedges are better, especially for those logs where the tension & compression want to close the cut up.

if I think of anything else I will add more

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

I’ve found/find when I when milling the chain needs to be super sharp. The duller it is the more washboard effect I got.

it’s better to try and keep the saw parallel to the log and resist semi noodling, as this also gives the washboard look

i also look at the sawdust, a bran sort of size is better than fine flour.

I monitor the pressure needed during the cut. as the more pressure needed either means dull chain (fine flour sawdust) or depth gauges need checking. I’ve found/seen the cutting speed change and more pressure needed when going through muddy patches of bark.
So if you can debark the log or miss the dirty bits it helps

wedges are needed, and more wedges are better, especially for those logs where the tension & compression want to close the cut up.

if I think of anything else I will add more

I will keep all of that in mind!!! Excellent thank you!!
I was getting a fine flour type dust coming out so my chain was def not sharp enough. It was an older chain that I just grabbed, I noticed that it didn’t have much of any of a curve to the tooth. Gonna sharpen it tonight and use my soft wood raker setting.

how often do you put your wedges in behind the cut every 2 feet?
When you stop to palm a wedge do you find stopping leaves a mark as well? Unavoidable I suppose?

 

[Stump Shot]

For a smooth finish the teeth need be as close to exactly the same length as possible to one another and the closer to zero degree sharpening angle the better. Expect to take some time while making/sharpening up a good milling chain.
As far as wedges go, you don't need them until just before the end of the cut so you can exit nicely. The plank will lay down in such a manor that there is free room where the bar is cutting otherwise as the plank will stay straight for a ways before the weight overtakes it.
Also do not wiggle jiggle the saw jig to and fro in the cut, just push it straight forward as possible.
You should be able to make boards that will marvel ones from a band mill.
Happy cutting.

 

[Wolverine]

I use full chisel, square ground/filed to more milling friendly angles. Never tried dedicated stuff. I make really good progress (cuts fast) and leaves a decent enough finish for me (see below pics).

If I don't keep a wedge in the kerf, the plank bottom does this. So IME, keep wedges close to mill.

On the bottom of that pic you can where where the first rail of the mill came off the log. I don't sweat it too much because I figure it's going to get planed some time anyway.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

how often do you put your wedges in behind the cut every 2 feet?
When you stop to palm a wedge do you find stopping leaves a mark as well? Unavoidable I suppose?

itdepends on the board, on the distance of the wedges. You get a feel for it, ie if the first one at the end of the log goes in easy or not (kerf opening or closing)
But it can change down the log. so if you find the back end of the bar chain being grabbed then more wedges help.

I try not to stop while cutting as it does leave a mark, I slip the wedges in as I go. Or have a helper do it.
It is unavoidable stopping sometimes.