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McCulloch 10 10 diagnostic help needed

Steve

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Check to make sure the carb meetering needle is sealing properly and that the metering lever height is set correctly. Should hold 10psi easy. If it leaks even just a hair, it will flood the saw.
 

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I went to do the above test Steve recommended , I had left the saw sit for 2 days with plug out -cyl open- and before doing test I decided to try it without choking , it fired up and ran for about 20-30 seconds and revved up before dying , pulled plug and it was wet , disassembled and inspect carb parts , the needle has a ring around end which will cause leakage , the diaphragm looks questionable, reassembled and done above test, it will not hold 10 psi , leaks right off to 0 psi in about 4-5 seconds , so it looks like I need a carb kit which the seller had offered to send me one earlier. Ill get back with him and see if he can send it , if not Ill be looking for one , I cant tell you all how grateful I am for your help , and a special thanks to Steve for the diagnostic help , Steve you nailed it , Thank you sir
 

Steve

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You are welcome.

That is a walbro SDC carb.

A K10-SDC will get you up and going in no time. 1 turn out is the base setting for both the high and low needles. Metering lever should be flush with the raised bosses cast in the chamber floor. Be careful to get the diaphragm hooked into the fork on the lever apon reassembly.
 

Willoughby

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You are welcome.

That is a walbro SDC carb.

A K10-SDC will get you up and going in no time. 1 turn out is the base setting for both the high and low needles. Metering lever should be flush with the raised bosses cast in the chamber floor. Be careful to get the diaphragm hooked into the fork on the lever apon reassembly.
thanks again sir , once I get a kit installed Ill see how it runs, is there any way to up the compression ? new ring & honing maybe
 

Steve

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thanks again sir , once I get a kit installed Ill see how it runs, is there any way to up the compression ? new ring & honing maybe

Sometimes these iron bore saws will oxidize and glaze apon sitting awhile and then being restarted. Run some good 2 stroke oil and run the pizz out of it for a tank or two. Then recheck and see where compression is.
 

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final update , installed carb kit, found fuel filter fuzz under smaller welsh plug and some debri in pump side -I managed to install metering lever wrong first time even with excellent instructions - fired it up ran ok-ish but wouldn't restart without choking , took carb off and inspect metering lever , it was flush with raised bosses but not read to raise needle , so I readjusted till top part of metering lever till level with bosses and lower part of ml ready to touch and raise needle -re- install carb and it runs good and restarts without choke , even stuck in some larch -seems maybe a lil rich on high- but the fuel cap seal is leaking , Ill wait till after making a seal to adjust further -very pleased with all the help here -much appreciated to all -
 

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final update , installed carb kit, found fuel filter fuzz under smaller welsh plug and some debri in pump side -I managed to install metering lever wrong first time even with excellent instructions - fired it up ran ok-ish but wouldn't restart without choking , took carb off and inspect metering lever , it was flush with raised bosses but not read to raise needle , so I readjusted till top part of metering lever till level with bosses and lower part of ml ready to touch and raise needle -re- install carb and it runs good and restarts without choke , even stuck in some larch -seems maybe a lil rich on high- but the fuel cap seal is leaking , Ill wait till after making a seal to adjust further -very pleased with all the help here -much appreciated to all -

Now get some more old Macs and dig in. This stuff gets in your blood so to speak. It's a lot cheaper than drag racing too.
 

Steve

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final update , installed carb kit, found fuel filter fuzz under smaller welsh plug and some debri in pump side -I managed to install metering lever wrong first time even with excellent instructions - fired it up ran ok-ish but wouldn't restart without choking , took carb off and inspect metering lever , it was flush with raised bosses but not read to raise needle , so I readjusted till top part of metering lever till level with bosses and lower part of ml ready to touch and raise needle -re- install carb and it runs good and restarts without choke , even stuck in some larch -seems maybe a lil rich on high- but the fuel cap seal is leaking , Ill wait till after making a seal to adjust further -very pleased with all the help here -much appreciated to all -


You're welcome! Get a 250 next. They are cheap and easy to come by!

Not that it runs reliably put a few tanks on it and run it hard! Then check compression for giggles. Will probably be much more than when you checked it last.
 

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You're welcome! Get a 250 next. They are cheap and easy to come by!

Not that it runs reliably put a few tanks on it and run it hard! Then check compression for giggles. Will probably be much more than when you checked it last.
my brother has given me a 250 , he'll bring next visit , I have 3 610s 2 of them run , I have a friend who is a retired logger who always used macs , said he has 2 nib 81;s unopened and said he bought 1000.00 worth of parts for them in 93 when our local dealer shut down.
 

Al Smith

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The weak link on many of the 10 series is the muffler .Some have two 90 degree bends and running sucking bar oil will clog the screen which will cook the exhaust side of the piston with fire scorched carbon which is about like valve grinding compound .The best mufflers are the ones with the sweeping first bend from the cylinder then straight out to the outlet .
Quite frankly I'm not so sure if after they get some age if you could find a 10 series that doesn't suck at least some bar oil .They puff a little smoke on a start up but clear up after about 10-15 seconds .
 

Al Smith

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As far as this saw ,my 2 cents worth is it's got options .You could sand out the piston keeping mind a high spot will hurt you because it breaks the surface tension of the oil. A low spot normally will not .If it's got an iron cylinder it could be honed ,lightly .Chrome cylinder use 3M pads and kerosene to remove any transfer .If that gets it don't be stingy with the oil in the mix gas ,just saying .I've got 10-10's from right hand start up to the almost last year of production that looks nearly new .I don't use them because I've got better saws but these things have cut a lot of wood world wide over the years .
 

Al Smith

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More---What happens is the rings are riding over the transfer on the cylinder .As I recall a 10-10 has fairly wide rings so it may or may not hurt them .They act like a plane and shave off some of the transfer which sticks the rings and they can not seal like they should .Worse comes to worse if the cylinder will clean up a used piston with a rod show up on flea bay ,usually reasonably priced .Keep in mind Mac made millions of these things .If they want a bloody fortune for a replacement move on down the line because one will show up in time .I have a couple of early 10-10 pistons some place, I'll check the rings if I can remember what box they are in .I don't remember if the early ones were windowed or cut skirt .
 

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More---What happens is the rings are riding over the transfer on the cylinder .As I recall a 10-10 has fairly wide rings so it may or may not hurt them .They act like a plane and shave off some of the transfer which sticks the rings and they can not seal like they should .Worse comes to worse if the cylinder will clean up a used piston with a rod show up on flea bay ,usually reasonably priced .Keep in mind Mac made millions of these things .If they want a bloody fortune for a replacement move on down the line because one will show up in time .I have a couple of early 10-10 pistons some place, I'll check the rings if I can remember what box they are in .I don't remember if the early ones were windowed or cut skirt .

All the 54cc engines are windowed. All 57cc and 62cc are cut skirt. Early 70cc are windowed thick ring and later ones are cut skirt thin rings.
 

Al Smith

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I also can't remember which ones had three channel transfers and those with two channel .I have never seen this style on any other brand of chainsaw .The idea was a stroke of genious regarding how they were staggered and using different volumes during the transfer cycle as well as being directional .
In my minds eye I have often wondered had not McCulloch circled the drain and using a similar cylinder design in the form of a vertical cylinder design with the exhaust out front with anti vibration mounts what it could have been .We'll never know .
 

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I also can't remember which ones had three channel transfers and those with two channel .I have never seen this style on any other brand of chainsaw .The idea was a stroke of genious regarding how they were staggered and using different volumes during the transfer cycle as well as being directional .
In my minds eye I have often wondered had not McCulloch circled the drain and using a similar cylinder design in the form of a vertical cylinder design with the exhaust out front with anti vibration mounts what it could have been .We'll never know .

All iron bores had 6. All plated bores had 4.
 

Al Smith

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The Mac reeders have 6 also but the design of course is slightly different .Regarding the iron liner 70's I just now wonder if a 6-10 I have because of that ,with a very small amount of rework runs much better than say a 700 .If I'm not mistaken that one has a 96 after exhaust port opening .Some of these things are just a mystery I am never really certain of .
 

Willoughby

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All the 54cc engines are windowed. All 57cc and 62cc are cut skirt. Early 70cc are windowed thick ring and later ones are cut skirt thin rings.
what cc is my 10 10 ? a 57cc?
 
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