Marvel Schebler TSX tractor carb rebuild

[Steve]

If you do any mowing ,brush hogging you better install an over run coupler because even standing on the brakes a wound up brush hog can shove you a long ways .Fact I had to retrieve my other Fergy out of a pond once because of that .I got real smart real quick .

Always. Or bust it out of gear real quick.

 

[FergusonTO35]

That picture showing fuel line behind the exhaust side of the manifold is exactly what I had talked about .I had to route it clear back under where the battery sits then swing wide around the exhaust pipe to stop the vapor lock .Same deal with the alternator except I used the pulley from the generator with a 5/8" belt .Doesn't turn as fast but does a darn sight better than the generator .

Yep, mine is already routed like that.

 

[FergusonTO35]

If you do any mowing ,brush hogging you better install an over run coupler because even standing on the brakes a wound up brush hog can shove you a long ways .Fact I had to retrieve my other Fergy out of a pond once because of that .I got real smart real quick .

I use our 2018 MF 2706 for bush hogging. The TO-35 is used with the finish mower, which only pushes the tractor a couple feet at most.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I think I have the carb dialed in pretty good. It idles and accelerates well. That darn spit and sputter is still there though. About every 5-10 seconds a power stroke goes puff or pop instead of the steady rumble. Im suspecting the distributor is worn out. When I set the timing, the number kind of dances around by 3-4 degrees. Does this sound correct? The tractor still has the Delco distributor with a Pertronix electronic module and coil.

 

[legdelimber]

A couple of carefully placed wraps of teflon tape can help get that elbow to stop dripping when it's where you need it pointed.
Just need to be SUPER careful with the wrapping and do not let it get past the end of the elbow threads.
Try to start a about a thread back from the beginning of the fitting.
ANY tape that is out to or past the end of the fitting runs a very high likelihood of getting inside of the carburetor.
That will likely cause a whole new flooding problem!!
If the tiny little piece of tape gets past the needle & seat, it will find a jet or passage to clog.
No fun in that problem either.

Edit to add: IF you use the tape trick.
If you ever unscrew the elbow, even just a little, it will shed tape bits inside of the carb body.
So you'll have to completely clean the carb out (tape shreds) before trying to run it again.
- - -
On a side note like the saw (bar & chain) crowd would say...Maybe ya got the Australian model elbow?

 

[Al Smith]

I once had a Woods bush hog , five footer with 1/2" thick blades with a huge flywheel type gizmo .When that thing was wound up it had tremendous amount amount of kinetic energy . I finally tore the gear box out of it hitting rocks, mowing saplings etc . Before that I found all kinds of treasures like automobile cylinder heads ,transmissions etc . Once a diamond oil well drilling bit near an oil well .In other words it was abused to say the least . I think it might have had 7 /16" shear bolts on the PTO shaft and I always had at least a half dozen in my tool box . It would snap them like tooth picks if it didn't stall the tractor first .

 

[Al Smith]

On that distributor it should have a brass bushing that can wear concentric .I imagine you can still find them ,not too pricy or at least at one time were not .

 

[FergusonTO35]

The Permatex seems to have taken care of the fuel dripping.

 

[Al Smith]

A lot can be said for Permatex .This stuff has been around long before Shep was a pup .Your great granddad probably used in on a model T Ford .Much ado about Yamaha Bond ,Dirko and the like but this gooey stuff still works, ethanol gas be damned .As far as teflon tape they make several types .One for water others for natural gas etc . The water is white the other is a yellowish color . I use it but I've got a large collection of all types of sealants, pipe dope etc .

 

[Al Smith]

I don't know what made me think of this at o-six bells in the morning but here goes .I used to mow a 5 acre field for an old widow lady where I used to live in a former life with a former wife .The Fergy did it but would over heat then I tore up the Woods bush hog .So my brother brought out a 7 footer ,trailer model .The poor little Fergy that thing was too much for it .Then on the back of a 1954 John -Deere 70 gasser .About like comparing a model A pick up to a Mack truck .Dear John was only rated to around 35 DB HB but the torque that thing had was really high .It would blow flames a foot high under a heavy load ,straight pipe no muffler .It also loved gasoline to the tune of around 4.5 gallons per hour .When that thing was made gasoline was cheap .Not so true 60 some years later .

 

[Larry B]

I think I have the carb dialed in pretty good. It idles and accelerates well. That darn spit and sputter is still there though. About every 5-10 seconds a power stroke goes puff or pop instead of the steady rumble. Im suspecting the distributor is worn out. When I set the timing, the number kind of dances around by 3-4 degrees. Does this sound correct? The tractor still has the Delco distributor with a Pertronix electronic module and coil.

Are the plug wires new? Normally an ignition problem miss is more noticeable at idle. Pop off the distributor cap, grab the rotor and see if there is any side play in the distributor shaft. Does the centrifugal advance work properly? You can get one of the inline neon spark testers and connect it to the coil wire and watch to see if it miss fires. Does the timing wander at idle and full throttle?

 

[FergusonTO35]

Plug wires, cap, and rotor are about 5 years old and look great. I can't feel any kind of wobble or runout on the distributor shaft. The centrifugal advance looks to be in good condition, however I am no expert on them by any means. My luck says its going to be a burned valve or something.

 

[Steve]

Plug wires, cap, and rotor are about 5 years old and look great. I can't feel any kind of wobble or runout on the distributor shaft. The centrifugal advance looks to be in good condition, however I am no expert on them by any means. My luck says its going to be a burned valve or something.

View attachment 288023

Does it pop under load or only no load/idle?

 

[Larry B]

Weights and springs look good for their age. Have you done a wet and dry compression test on the engine?

 

[FergusonTO35]

Does it pop under load or only no load/idle?

Both. It really does it going downhill with no load. Strangely putting a load on it helps.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Weights and springs look good for their age. Have you done a wet and dry compression test on the engine?

Not recently, guess I better do that!

 

[Steve]

Both. It really does it going downhill with no load. Strangely putting a load on it helps.

After you make sure your base engine is in good shape, your may need to do a basic secondary ignition replacement. Things can look good but electricity is both sneaky and lazy.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I may go ahead and order a new aftermarket distributor, wires, and coil just to rule that out. They don't cost much and its good to have spares. If it does need engine work and still runs good enough to mow the grass, Ill probably fix it in the garage over the winter.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I have read that one trick to find a burned valve is to place a piece of paper over the exhaust while running. If the exhaust tries to suck the paper in at times, you probably have a burned valve. I placed a paper towel over the exhaust and yes, it does try to suck it in at times.

 

[Steve]

I have read that one trick to find a burned valve is to place a piece of paper over the exhaust while running. If the exhaust tries to suck the paper in at times, you probably have a burned valve. I placed a paper towel over the exhaust and yes, it does try to suck it in at times.

Have you ever checked valve lash?