Looking to get into milling

[Dougbert]

Just joined the forum recently and was hoping for some advice on an Alaskan mill setup. I've been using my trusty old Husky 345 to cut firewood on my property for the past 19 years. More than once I've considered trying some milling. This year I'd like to do it.

I've got some madrone chunks in the 12-20" diameter range that are mostly short pieces 36-60" long. One log will trim to 8'. I also have about 50' of usable Douglas Fir from a 95 footer that blew down across my driveway a couple of weeks ago. That ranges from 10" to 22" or maybe 24". There's also a nice black oak log that fell last spring that I'd like to work on.

After a bunch of reading here (awesome site) and elsewhere plus watching videos, my brain is straining a bit. I'd like to keep it simple. Thinking about a 36" Granberg with a Husky 288 or similar. 36" bar for milling. Probably would want a 24-28" for firewood use as well. I don't see this as a full time thing, just a way to use some wood that would otherwise go to waste or firewood.

Am I on the right track? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Doug

 

[mdavlee]

Good plan. Try to find a 394/5 over the 288 for the better Oiler. 36” mill will give 33” of cut.

 

[Dougbert]

Thanks, man. Forgot to mention that I'm not a big guy. 5'6" 140. Was trying to keep the weight down. Maybe 2-3 lbs isn't that big of a deal deal on a 30lb+ rig.

 

[mdavlee]

Thanks, man. Forgot to mention that I'm not a big guy. 5'6" 140. Was trying to keep the weight down. Maybe 2-3 lbs isn't that big of a deal deal on a 30lb+ rig.

It’s not a big difference but the heavier the mill the smoother it cuts. You can strip the chain brake and spikes off to make the 395 lighter for the mill

 

[Brian72]

I agree with Dave. Get the biggest saw possible. I use an auxiliary oiler on anything over a 28" bar. If you make your cut rails longer than the log, all the weight is supported by the rails so weight isn't really an issue. Also, take some measurements before you order your mill. You may want to go bigger in case you ever want to run a longer bar. I got a 48" mill and I run 28", 36" and 50" bars.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[Dougbert]

Thanks for the input, Brian. I'm not expecting to try milling any logs bigger than 24" at this point. I had originally thought about a 272 or 372, but after reading more decided to go for ~90cc (6hp). Is a 288 just not going to be enough? Even with an aux oiler?

If I really get into this I can always upgrade later. Was hoping to get going for around $1k to start. $600 saw, $200 mill, $200 bar and chain. With tax and shipping I'm already looking at closer to $1200.

 

[mdavlee]

Thanks for the input, Brian. I'm not expecting to try milling any logs bigger than 24" at this point. I had originally thought about a 272 or 372, but after reading more decided to go for ~90cc (6hp). Is a 288 just not going to be enough? Even with an aux oiler?

If I really get into this I can always upgrade later. Was hoping to get going for around $1k to start. $600 saw, $200 mill, $200 bar and chain. With tax and shipping I'm already looking at closer to $1200.

288 is ok. I never killed with them. I thought they were underpowered for their size but I’ve always had 660/394/5s around that were ported.

 

[psuiewalsh]

Are Macs better for killing, Mike?

 

[mdavlee]

Are Macs better for killing, Mike?

Some of the Macs have great torque and will plug right along. It’s still an old platform though to get parts for

 

[Brian72]

Thanks for the input, Brian. I'm not expecting to try milling any logs bigger than 24" at this point. I had originally thought about a 272 or 372, but after reading more decided to go for ~90cc (6hp). Is a 288 just not going to be enough? Even with an aux oiler?

If I really get into this I can always upgrade later. Was hoping to get going for around $1k to start. $600 saw, $200 mill, $200 bar and chain. With tax and shipping I'm already looking at closer to $1200.

I'm sure a 288 will be fine to get you started but it'll be more expensive to upgrade later. I got my 661 with 36" bar for around $1,100 new. I know the 395 is right about the same price. There's no need for special milling bars or chains. I use regular Stihl RS chain and it works fine. I'm not saying your plan is bad. Just saying for an extra $300 or$400, you could get a bigger, better and brand new saw. It really depends on what you want to invest.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[psuiewalsh]

Some of the Macs have great torque and will plug right along. It’s still an old platform though to get parts for

So when you plunge through the trunk, it will pull on through and keep Killing???

 

[mdavlee]

So when you plunge through the trunk, it will pull on through and keep Killing???

They can kill on both ends. Work you o death and kill trees all day long[emoji23]

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> Thinking about a 36" Granberg with a Husky 288 or similar.

Do not get a 288, I had one, it is fine for power, BUT, changing chains is tedious. Get a 385 or something similar with a side tensioner. My 288 sold on E-Bay for almost the cost of a new 660 clone, so, unless you can get one for under $200 I would skip that. For what you are doing, a Husq 365/372 would work. I started on a Husq 365 and it is fine for no so wide wood. I did use mine one time, on my ProCut to slice up 28"+ diameter white oak.

Do this with a carriage system, the best thing is to build yourself a pro-cut trailer or something along that lines. Or just go with a set of rails on the ground and buy the carriage. There is a guy "panther" on E-Bay I attempted to buy a carriage from, but, canceled over the wait time and build one myself out of free bed frames off freecycle and CL.

I had/bought a ProCut trailer before, so, it was not like virgin territory for the design. I build the base from a scrap van frame and (free) lolly columns and the thing I had to buy was 2x2 angle for the rails. It has six metal wheels, I use to roll it off the trailer next to the log, and can handle a 27"x100" log up to 3600#.

The Alaska type mill is nice for a quick type thing (you could build one yourself cheap), but, bending over or being on your knees to mill a log gets old fast!

I rather be standing up straight with my face above the log to avoid the sawdust, oil, and exhaust.

This is probably one of the most important tools to have ... a really nice peavey or cant hook.

My 72" LogRite can handle just about anything weight wise, though I have bent it a tad in the past. Though I have found it a bit too small to grab a 43" oak I recently cut down and had to roll the logs with my 4x4. Though the oak weighted about 74# a cubic foot (I put some on a scale) so it was 5900# every 8 feet, so the hook might not have been big enough to get a solid grip (I tried pounding it in with a hammer). For what you plan on cutting it should be fine.

 

[Dougbert]

Thanks for the info. I see you're in GA. I grew up in SC. Due to the nature of my property a wheeled mill just isn't practical. I have some relatively "flat" land near my house, but most of my place is steep terrain with no vehicle access. Gotta bring the mill to the log in most cases.

I do need to buy a good peavey. I wonder if I can find anything locally. Where did you get your LogRite?

As for the 288, already bought one. I'm not into the Chinese clones. Due to budget limits I was looking for the biggest saw I could get for under $600-700. I prefer an older Husky, but would have gotten a Stihl if one were available. Wanted a saw that wouldn't be straining too much under load. I'm sure the 288 has its quirks...so do I!

Your setup sounds pretty cool. Was that big oak a live oak? Those suckers are dense. Thanks again for the advice and info.

 

[Arod]

Here's my set up: Aluminum ladder to whatever length you need, Aluminum mill with auxiliary oiler, and your saw of choice. The cross piece that mounts to the chainsaw tip can be moved to accommodate whatever size bar you're running. Simple set up for occasional milling. Something like this could work for you since you have to carry everything in by hand vs a truck.

 

[Dustin4185]

I do need to buy a good peavey. I wonder if I can find anything locally. Where did you get your LogRite?

I bought the Stihl version at Rural King. A little more expensive, but by the time I added shipping, it was cheaper in the end.

 

[Dougbert]

I ended up getting the 36" Granberg. Assembled it yesterday. Kit was missing two lock washers, so I'll grab them at the HW store. Still waiting for saw, bars, and chains. Went with Cannon for bars. Also ordered a LogRite 60" can't hook from Bailey's.

Arod-I'm planning a DIY aux oiler. Got any pointers? What sort of valve did you use? Drip feed or drilled bar style?

 

[Arod]

I used a hard plastic water container from Colemam, drilled a hole to fit a 1/8" fitting and installed it using a nut and rubber washer to seal it off, ran the tubing to my in-line valve, and down to the bar. I just open it to drip on the bar close to the chain. Hope the pictures help you out. Oh and don't forget to shut it off when you finish your cut...

 

[Dougbert]

Cool. Thanks for the pics.

 

[Dougbert]

Finally got a few hours of free time and good weather today. Made my first slabs. Decided to start with some madrone. Selected a 52" log about 12" diameter.

Used a straight 6' 2x6 screwed down and wedged as a guide. Not ideal, but it worked. Used a 28" bar and Woodland Pro ripping chain. Cut two 9/4 slabs and one 5/4. I'm hooked!