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Interesting video from efleetcommand regarding bore alignment

Wonkydonkey

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I wonder who pooped into that saw 🤔.
I'm, sure there will be names thrown into the air. 👀



Btw. Thanks for posting
 

Mastermind

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Motorka

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remember me of this yt warrior and his lathe...

 

mrxlh

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Bases should be cut on a mill after indicated in with a coaxial indicator. 4 flute end mills never leave a finish that chitty in an interrupted cut. I realize no porters are going to purchase a 20X30 3 axis CNC to do saw work. Bridgeport and the clones plus a rotary table makes this pretty stupid proof and cheap. While it may make the initial setup different, it eliminates the need for any mandrels.

The ability to cut your base and squish in a single operation speaks volumes. You can also measure before removing.
 

drf256

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When you sit and really think about it, it’s quite difficult to make a bore unsquare to a base on a lathe with a mandrel. One has to be off quite a bit to actually get more than .0005 difference side to side.

A belt sander is a horse of a different color. IIRC, this jug base was off over .0090.

IMG-20180415-WA0155.jpeg20180415_172710.jpeg
 

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srcarr52

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Bases should be cut on a mill after indicated in with a coaxial indicator. 4 flute end mills never leave a finish that chitty in an interrupted cut. I realize no porters are going to purchase a 20X30 3 axis CNC to do saw work. Bridgeport and the clones plus a rotary table makes this pretty stupid proof and cheap. While it may make the initial setup different, it eliminates the need for any mandrels.

The ability to cut your base and squish in a single operation speaks volumes. You can also measure before removing.

I have 2 CNC mills but I still prefer to cut the base on a lathe with a proper mandrel. It takes less than 5 minutes on a lathe and I can get a better finish than factory. Solid aluminum mandrel, positive rake carbide and a spritz of wd40.

Husky 5 series saws are notoriously hard to get a good surface finish on. They are really imbalanced from the large front fed transfers which also makes for a heavily interrupted cut for a long while. Also the material has a real tendency to smear, you can't cut it dry.

IMG_5238.JPG
 

srcarr52

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When you sit and really think about it, it’s quite difficult to make a bore unsquare to a base on a lathe with a mandrel. One has to be off quite a bit to actually get more than .0005 difference side to side.

A belt sander is a horse of a different color. IIRC, this jug base was off over .0090.

View attachment 421947View attachment 421949

I think I found something similar on another saw from the belt sander bandit.
 

Mastermind

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Yeh, that plane doesn't land in 5 minutes I leave the airport.
I have exactly zero patience for long winded youtubers. Which by every metric seems to be the opposite of what draws in huge amounts of followers and views. Evidently just getting to the point doesn't sell well these days.
 

JRHAWK9

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I have exactly zero patience for long winded youtubers. Which by every metric seems to be the opposite of what draws in huge amounts of followers and views. Evidently just getting to the point doesn't sell well these days.

There is a little slider at the bottom that allows you to move to whatever part of the video you want to. If that doesn't work, they do make medication to help with that ADHD. 🤣 :p

I know what you are saying, and I get irritated at times to with those who can't get to the point, however, this video was not one of them for me. I do make use of the slider to find the point in the video which gets it back on track. I also use -FREETUBE- to view most YT videos now-a-days ever since YT has forced ads on those of us who use ad-blockers.
 

Mastermind

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There is a little slider at the bottom that allows you to move to whatever part of the video you want to. If that doesn't work, they do make medication to help with that ADHD. 🤣 :p

I know what you are saying, and I get irritated at times to with those who can't get to the point, however, this video was not one of them for me. I do make use of the slider to find the point in the video which gets it back on track. I also use -FREETUBE- to view most YT videos now-a-days ever since YT has forced ads on those of us who use ad-blockers.
I have watched a lot of videos on subjects I'm interested in. Mostly automatic transmission rebuild and modification videos at this area of my life. It seems that the people who make these sort of videos have actually mastered the art of getting to the point, staying on task, and engaging with their audience without droning on and on.
 

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I have exactly zero patience for long winded youtubers. Which by every metric seems to be the opposite of what draws in huge amounts of followers and views. Evidently just getting to the point doesn't sell well these days.
I concur, the amount of youtubers who like the sound of their own voice and keep flapping their gums, particularly Americans I have noticed. Unwatchable.
 

ZERO

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ZERO issues with square base allignment from Steve @Stump Shot on the various projects.

Shaun @srcarr52 you are correct Sir., a true pro will have a better finish all around than what the factory produces, something incorrectly pointed out in the video.

A really good example of what happens when people step outside the "dirty dozen" eco system.
 

Wonkydonkey

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I see Walt’s posted another video of the saw being fixed & first starts.

I thought i,d watch it, 🤔 …sorry but I’m not into trains going by. Yes that’s how the vid starts with some locomotives passing by

I skipped that bit as much as i could. Then found myself just skipping through the 28 odd minute vid 🥱🤷‍♂️
I found the video a bit pointless unless you want to watch someone sort of put a 572 together and get obscured views at times in a workshop
Btw i 'm sure you never actually see the saw being started or cutting 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️
I guess it’s up to you if you want to go watch it 🤨

The video
 

Stump Shot

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ZERO issues with square base allignment from Steve @Stump Shot on the various projects.

Shaun @srcarr52 you are correct Sir., a true pro will have a better finish all around than what the factory produces, something incorrectly pointed out in the video.

A really good example of what happens when people step outside the "dirty dozen" eco system.
It all starts with good prep work making our base plates, mandrels and cutting tools for the job at hand. An old machinist told me years ago, the tool you need the most is the one you have to make, so make it good.
Some years ago now, I had several new saws come through that the base was significantly off from the bore. After double checking my triple check to confirm 100% that was the case, those saws were indeed saved from some amount of suffering run issues later on no doubt. Then just as fast as they came the problem cylinders disappeared and I haven't seen any since.
I made it about 5 minutes. LOL
I should have seen this first.
I think I found something similar on another saw from the belt sander bandit.
have run into builds where the previous builder did not square up the base in relation to the bore.
I trued a couple up that were sent to me, one belt sanded and one turned on a lathe. To my surprise the sanded one was only a couple of thousandths of an inch out, whereas the lathed one was thirteen thousandths of an inch out.
So, it is possible to fugg up on a lathe although I don't know quite how one would manage it and not see the mandrel not turning true.
Maybe if you don't give two chits.
I have 2 CNC mills but I still prefer to cut the base on a lathe with a proper mandrel. It takes less than 5 minutes on a lathe and I can get a better finish than factory. Solid aluminum mandrel, positive rake carbide and a spritz of wd40.

Husky 5 series saws are notoriously hard to get a good surface finish on. They are really imbalanced from the large front fed transfers which also makes for a heavily interrupted cut for a long while. Also the material has a real tendency to smear, you can't cut it dry.
Yes, a fine job can be had from just a lathe. A milling machine would be nice, especially a cnc, it's not going to happen though between costs and shop room to have one.
Have a cutting tool made up just for turning the bases and it works best cutting in a forward direction, it can be dragged for a one or two thousandths finish cut without issue. I also keep the feed up and not too slow, this also seems to help on the 5 series to get a fine finish on the base.

Would have rather seen it being checked with a dial indicator to show it was .xxx amount off, or even an amount given of what it took to straighten it up, than all the blathering on.
 
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