HUSQVARNA Husqvarna Workshop Manuals

[Stump Shot]

I have a Husqvarna L65 chainsaw, manufactured in 1974 in Sweden. I received it non-running.

I already have the 6 page Clymer generic service manual that covers this saw as well as 16 others.

I have gone through the saw from stem to stern, doing the necessary repairs to bring it back to life.

The task I have remaining is setting the points/ignition system correctly.

I have teenage/early adulthood farm experience of setting the points/ignition systems on old farm tractors and trucks/cars.

This L65 points/ignition system is different, at least as my ancient recollection goes, as the ignition system is under/inside the flywheel. Airgap seems to be a hit/miss proposition, installing tape to the coil magnets on the inside of the coil and judging gap through repeated removal...trial/error). The points have 2 points of adjustment (it's own installation screw as well as the stator plate that the points/condensor/coil are fastened to).

I have tried to find a reference throughout the internet as to the exact procedure to be followed outside the Clymer manual. The Clymer manual references a Husqvarna service tool that is no longer available (Husqvarna 50 25 059 01) and the picture in the Clymer manual is not very clear as to what this tool looks like and thus how to try to fabricate/replicate it in order to follow the Clymer manual instructions.

My comments/questions:

1) As I understand it, this Clymer manual is the only service manual known today on how to repair this chainsaw. I have read several comments on many websites to this vein.

2) But this saw is out there (to include the Husqvarna L77), owned by many. So the saw is being serviced. Can anyone direct me on where to go to obtain these final point/ignition installation/adjustment instructions?

Thanks ahead of time.

Question, is the point cam located on the flywheel or the crankshaft?

 

[rotorwing90]

Question, is the point cam located on the flywheel or the crankshaft?

The point cam is located on the crankshaft.

 

[Stump Shot]

The point cam is located on the crankshaft.

Okay, that's good. Means the special tool is for timing only. Get your point gap set at the recommended .012" - .016" , so that part will be taken care of. Next put the flywheel temporarily on and put a degree wheel on the other side of the crank. Mark out where say 26 to 28 degrees before tdc is, hook up a continuity light and your points should open there. If not take flywheel off loosen baking plate and adjust and recheck. Not the best scenario, but it will get you there. Unless of course somehow you manage to come up with a timing tool, I think you might hit the lottery before that happens though.

 

[rotorwing90]

Okay, that's good. Means the special tool is for timing only. Get your point gap set at the recommended .012" - .016" , so that part will be taken care of. Next put the flywheel temporarily on and put a degree wheel on the other side of the crank. Mark out where say 26 to 28 degrees before tdc is, hook up a continuity light and your points should open there. If not take flywheel off loosen baking plate and adjust and recheck. Not the best scenario, but it will get you there. Unless of course somehow you manage to come up with a timing tool, I think you might hit the lottery before that happens though.

Stump Shot-

1) Many thanks for responding.

2) When I installed points back in the 70's on our tractors and old trucks/cars on the farm, I never hooked up a continuity light to verify the points are opening when they're supposed to. I just eyeballed them. But I'm trying to follow your directions here.

(By the way, I'm not being lazy here and just asking you to direct me to the answers. I have literally spent the last couple of hours searching the internet for a turtorial on what I'm trying to do. The only turorials I have been able to find were a couple of old car restoration web site videos trying to answer these questions but to no avail.)

This is what I understand I'm supposed to do: A) Use an automotive meter which I have. B) Use the meter Ohms setting since I'm not supplying electricity. C) Look for the continuity to the points to be disrupted around 26 to 28 degrees before TDC.

If I'm correct in doing all of this in the Ohms setting, where do I connect meter's positive and negative leads on the chainsaw? I'm sure the negative lead goes to the chainsaw body but where do I connect the positive lead?

Thanks!

rotorwing90

 

[Stump Shot]

Stump Shot-

1) Many thanks for responding.

2) When I installed points back in the 70's on our tractors and old trucks/cars on the farm, I never hooked up a continuity light to verify the points are opening when they're supposed to. I just eyeballed them. But I'm trying to follow your directions here.

(By the way, I'm not being lazy here and just asking you to direct me to the answers. I have literally spent the last couple of hours searching the internet for a turtorial on what I'm trying to do. The only turorials I have been able to find were a couple of old car restoration web site videos trying to answer these questions but to no avail.)

This is what I understand I'm supposed to do: A) Use an automotive meter which I have. B) Use the meter Ohms setting since I'm not supplying electricity. C) Look for the continuity to the points to be disrupted around 26 to 28 degrees before TDC.

If I'm correct in doing all of this in the Ohms setting, where do I connect meter's positive and negative leads on the chainsaw? I'm sure the negative lead goes to the chainsaw body but where do I connect the positive lead?

Thanks!

rotorwing90

Connect it to where the wire goes to the points.

 

[rotorwing90]

"Connect it to where the wire goes to the points."

Stump Shot-

I did this. Meter positive lead to the points and negative meter lead to chainsaw chassis/body. There is a gap between the points yet there is continuity...an Ohms reading.

How do I interpret this? The points are somehow shorted?

 

[rotorwing90]

"Connect it to where the wire goes to the points."

Stump Shot-

I did this. Meter positive lead to the points and negative meter lead to chainsaw chassis/body. There is a gap between the points yet there is continuity...an Ohms reading.

How do I interpret this? The points are somehow shorted?

____________

Stump Shot-

I think I've answered my own question...I isolated the points wire from the other wires it had contact with on top of the condenser. And testing the continuity this way.

 

[pbillyi69]

Hi all, does anyone have a shop manual for a 372xpw 75cc saw? Please

 

[F.U.R.E.]

Hi all, does anyone have a shop manual for a 372xpw 75cc saw? Please

There was no special manual for that saw. The 365/372 non xtorq manual covers it. The xtorq manual is almost identical.

 

[ray benson]

Hi all, does anyone have a shop manual for a 372xpw 75cc saw? Please

Check your inbox

 

[pbillyi69]

ok thank you both for the timely response

 

[shimm3112]

Does anyone know where I can find a workshop manual for a Husqvarna IZ5223TKAA 968999257 commercial ZTR mower? If anyone has one, it would be greatly appreciated!

 

[wbear]

Hi.
I have a Husky 445 saw and could use an IPL.
Also need a service manual and IPL for a Husky 125b leaf blower.
Are these available?
Thanks in advance and much appreciated!

 

[pbillyi69]

i think there is one at the front of the string

 

[wbear]

i think there is one at the front of the string

Found a manual for the 445 but still need the others I requested. Thanks

 

[markds2]

Could I please obtain a manual for a 346xpNE? The one I have is for the OE and doesn't have any info on the purge bulb and associated tubing.

 

[ray benson]

Could I please obtain a manual for a 346xpNE? The one I have is for the OE and doesn't have any info on the purge bulb and associated tubing.

Haven't seen one. The manual has no purge bulb info.

 

[Panos]

Hi Guys! is there a service manual for husgvarna T525 ? thanks

 

[ray benson]

Hi Guys! is there a service manual for husgvarna T525 ? thanks

Check your inbox

 

[telejed]

How about a manual for a 288xp?