Husqvarna oiling issues

[WillG]

I've recently been getting into running huskies and I've noticed that the oil holes in the bar seem to get plugged up quickly. Anything I can do to help them not get plugged up as quickly? I've been running Oregon VersaCut bars which have an angled oil hole. I have an OEM Husky bar for my 340/346 and noticed that the holes are a lot larger than the holes on the Oregon bars. Can I drill them out to the size of the husky bars? Saws are oiling just fine. I'm running Tractor Supply brand bar oil.

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[huskyboy]

What kind of bar oil are you running and are the oilers turned up all the way? Automatically drilling the holes isn’t the answer I found in testing. Too big of a hole and you don’t have oil pressure to keep it un plugged, too small and it restricts flow... there is a fine balance.

 

[WillG]

What kind of bar oil are you running and are the oilers turned up all the way? Automatically drilling the holes isn’t the answer I found in testing. Too big of a hole and you don’t have oil pressure to keep it un plugged, too small and it restricts flow... there is a fine balance.

Understood Mason. I'm just running the Tractor Supply brand bar oil. Neither saw has adjustable oilers. I can take the bar/chain off, clean the oil holes and rails and then it'll oil perfectly again.

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[huskyboy]

I'm running bar oil from tractor supply. Neither have adjustable oilers.

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That is pretty thick oil, we run that too. I find I have to cut it with a ratio of around 25% diesel (which is really just thin oil and doesn’t hurt anything) when it gets real cold out or I plug oil holes in the winter. Or just run winter weight oil. I’m good though once it gets above 35 degrees usually. Lugging the saw too much in the cut can cause plugging oil hole issues as well. This because you loose your oil output when you run the saw near stalling point or stall it. The faster the clutch drum spins, the more oil volume/pressure is put out to the bar (it drives the pump in most modern saws).

 

[huskyboy]

You also might want to look into putting a later model 350 adjustable oil pump in your 340. They put out a bit more oil than the non adjustable 340 pump. Just another option Will.

 

[WillG]

I'm definitely going to put the adjustable pump in my 340/346. Thanks for the other information as well Mason.

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[WillG]

Is it a direct upgrade?

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[Stevetheboatguy]

You also might want to look into putting a later model 350 adjustable oil pump in your 340. They put out a bit more oil than the non adjustable 340 pump. Just another option Will.

Is it a direct upgrade?

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The 350 pump is a nice upgrade. If you really want to upgrade go with the pump, worm and rim drum from a 460 rancher. Been doing that to all of mine and it works great.


Steven

 

[WillG]

What do I need to get to do the 350 oil pump upgrade?

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[huskyboy]

What do I need to get to do the 350 oil pump upgrade?

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Just the 350 oil pump I believe

 

[WillG]

Did some research and found the things needed to upgrade are the pump, drive gear, and the retaining screw for the pump. I have everything coming.

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[huskyboy]

Did some research and found the things needed to upgrade are the pump, drive gear, and the retaining screw for the pump. I have everything coming.

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Awesome!

 

[WillG]

Absolutely! Love the little 340/346! Light and lots of power!

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[WillG]

All back together today after work and no more oiling issues!

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[John235]

Thanks for the vid Will. I have a 340 saw and a 346 top end waiting to go together and looks I like this pump is a good upgrade

 

[WillG]

It's definitely a good upgrade. Not too expensive either. Pump was about $40 for an OEM one, the gear was $5 and the screw was $3. Less than $50 not bad.

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