Husqvarna 350 build thread

[timg]

Sorry, I am not sure if I am picking up what you are putting down...did you make a spacer from an old oil seal to take up the slack between the bearing and the case?

@Shane¹ I too am looking for some clarification on your mod. Did you add another seal over the integral bearing/rubber coated cup with the integral seal and used it as a width spacer?

 

[timg]

Looks as if we were typing at the same time LOL.

 

[Shane¹]

Looks as if we were typing at the same time LOL.

Haha yup I deleted the video of it running but it was crazy the crank would shift every time you hit the gas

 

[timg]

Haha yup I deleted the video of it running but it was crazy the crank would shift every time you hit the gas

I'll bet. That was a good catch and fix with seals you had on hand from other bearings. I've only used one aftermarket set of bearings on these. They were the same width and color brown as OEM of rubber shell bonding material. This tip you supplied will save someone as arsz ache in the future for sure. Thx for letting some additional posts to your thread @farminkarman.

 

[timg]

I like your approach to this Greg. I know your a busier family man now. But, this site has needed some professional builder input for well into 6 Mos to a year now. Again thx for making the time. Looking forward to thread progress.

 

[Dok440]

Perfect timing for this thread to come up! Last cutting season my 350 developed an air leak. I shut it down and put on the shelf. I need to fix it some time soon. It seems to develop an air leak every couple of years. Last time was the silly stock intake. Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread- it is appreciated!

 

[Sloughfoot]

If it was mentioned I missed it. Does a 351 case fit into this equation?

 

[cuinrearview]

If it was mentioned I missed it. Does a 351 case fit into this equation?

351 is basically a 353 with a 44mm top end. Open transfers. Magnesium case. If we're bringing up Jonsered, it would be a 2149

 

[cuinrearview]

This feels like a good time to bring up: using aftermarket parts in this bottom end setup can really shake up a build. I've never experienced the bearing/seal fit issue or the tank vents "falling out". It's my belief that in many cases, re-using parts and/or getting a parts unit is better than using a new POS from China. I once pressed new Shorenutz(eBay handle) Nachis into the old OEM seal cups.

If this was touched on, I'm sorry, but another thing of note is that a 6202 is a slip fit on the clamshell cranks, which are slightly different than the mag case cranks, which fit with interference.

 

[farminkarman]

This feels like a good time to bring up: using aftermarket parts in this bottom end setup can really shake up a build. I've never experienced the bearing/seal fit issue or the tank vents "falling out". It's my belief that in many cases, re-using parts and/or getting a parts unit is better than using a new POS from China. I once pressed new Shorenutz(eBay handle) Nachis into the old OEM bearing cups.

If this was touched on, I'm sorry, but another thing of note is that a 6202 is a slip fit on the clamshell cranks, which are slightly different than the mag case cranks, which fit with interference.

Good callout on the AM parts thing and the slip fit of the bearings on the crank.

 

[Shane¹]

This feels like a good time to bring up: using aftermarket parts in this bottom end setup can really shake up a build. I've never experienced the bearing/seal fit issue or the tank vents "falling out". It's my belief that in many cases, re-using parts and/or getting a parts unit is better than using a new POS from China. I once pressed new Shorenutz(eBay handle) Nachis into the old OEM bearing cups.

If this was touched on, I'm sorry, but another thing of note is that a 6202 is a slip fit on the clamshell cranks, which are slightly different than the mag case cranks, which fit with interference.

Good callout on the AM parts thing and the slip fit of the bearings on the crank.

I personally would want to use a good new bearing with an aftermarket seal over a crunchy old oem bearing out of a part saw. If the bearings were good I would want to reuse them but that wasn't the case in the couple of these. The seals have seemed to seal well and would probably be fine if they were touching the crank when locking the bearing cap down not loose on the crank like I did the first time

 

[Wood Doctor]

One of my favorite 350 mods using a part that I stole from a 353 and mounted on a 350 with muff mounts that kept loosening up. I cut off the right side leg that was not needed and rounded it off with a file. No loosening up after that.

 

[old guy]

View attachment 477161
One of my favorite 350 mods using a part that I stole from a 353 and mounted on a 350 with muff mounts that kept loosening up. I cut off the right side leg that was not needed and rounded it off with a file. No loosening up after that.

Yep, I do that too!

 

[cuinrearview]

I personally would want to use a good new bearing with an aftermarket seal over a crunchy old oem bearing out of a part saw. If the bearings were good I would want to reuse them but that wasn't the case in the couple of these. The seals have seemed to seal well and would probably be fine if they were touching the crank when locking the bearing cap down not loose on the crank like I did the first time

Agree. A set of name brand bearings is dirt cheap.

 

[Tor R]

Great thread.

I know of at least three bearing cups.
The oldest had coursed threads on the cylinder and the crankcase screws.
Then came one with M5 cylinder threads and coursed threads for the crankcase screws.
The last one had M5 cylinder and M6 crankcase threads.

There may also be one that was in the transition between M and coursed threads when Husqvarna changed the cup and the crankcase to have a cutout so that the crank bearing rubber had the opportunity to swell when we pulled the parts together, this applies to the transition between the crankcase, bearing cup and the bearing.
The old ones that did not have the cutout, when we pulled everything, it could happen that the surfaces did not really come together completely even with high torque.

 

[farminkarman]

Great thread.

I know of at least three bearing cups.
The oldest had coursed threads on the cylinder and the crankcase screws.
Then came one with M5 cylinder threads and coursed threads for the crankcase screws.
The last one had M5 cylinder and M6 crankcase threads.

There may also be one that was in the transition between M and coursed threads when Husqvarna changed the cup and the crankcase to have a cutout so that the crank bearing rubber had the opportunity to swell when we pulled the parts together, this applies to the transition between the crankcase, bearing cup and the bearing.
The old ones that did not have the cutout, when we pulled everything, it could happen that the surfaces did not really come together completely even with high torque.

Thanks for the add on the different thread types. Any of the AM risers I have gotten are based off the latest design with the M5 cylinder taps and M6 case bolt taps.

 

[Motorka]

View attachment 477089
The reason why I prefer this method is that it is cheaper, and much easier to install/tighten the 390 clamp vs. the one that Husqvarna sells.

Can this be used on 357 359 ?

part number is 588775502

 

[farminkarman]

Can this be used on 357 359 ?

Yes, I recommend this approach on those too.

 

[old guy]

Yes, I recommend this approach on those too.

I have not had any of those come loose. (4 of em)
By this I mean I have not had a 357-359 come loose without the support.

 

[Shane¹]

@farminkarman how much do you think full machine work and port work would gain over the mild porting you plan to do on this one?