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Husky 61 repairs

KYsawman

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Awesome, love to here of stories like thisne. I'm having to change the chain brake on one of the 61,s I have, the other 61 originally did not come with a chain brake, it's old but recently been completely refurbished, it runs great, I found an updated chain brake kit for it so I'll be ordering it soon. The 51 will be the next to refurbish. Thanks for sharing.
If you want to get rid of the side cover that does not have the brake I am needing one.
 

J & L Creations

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Oh, I built a CNC plasma cutting machine. I have a video of it on my YT channel, under Jeff Nading.
 

J & L Creations

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If you want to get rid of the side cover that does not have the brake I am needing one.
Ok, I have not ordered the brake setup yet, next couple of weeks I hope to have one. Can you wait a bit or do you need one now?
 

KYsawman

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[QUOT="Double J Creations, post: 108499, member: 1100"]Ok, I have not ordered the brake setup yet, next couple of weeks I hope to have one. Can you wait a bit or do you need one now?[/QUOTE]
I am in no hurry. I just need a brakeless cover for my chainsae mill.
 

J & L Creations

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Just a side note, I have a two cycle blower for the sidewalks, patio and driveway, which for a couple of years now has not been starting easy or running well, would not get up to speed, had to keep the choke on for it to even run. Took it all apart found loose screws. Took the carb off cleaned it reinstalled all parts, still same problem, then it dawned on me, took the side cover and gas tank off checked the head bolts, they were loose, tightened them up, reinstalled the tank and cover, now the blower runs great, go figure, loose head bolts.
 

J & L Creations

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Say what do youal use to seal the case halves gasket and the head of a chainsaw without a gasket?
 

J & L Creations

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Hi guys, I'm ready to install the new cylinder head on the husky 51. I've search for proceedures to test squish, not using a gasket between the cylinder head and the crankcase, can not find it here, what am I missing. Can someone steer me to a thread or video that gives procedural documentation, or can give me some insight on what to do?
 

calebng15

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Just take a piece of solder, put it on the side of the cylinder in between the squish band and piston, through the spark plug hole. Turn the saw over, and it should squish your solder. Measure the squished solder. I usually do it in 3 or 4 places. Pretty simple!
 

J & L Creations

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Ok thanks Caleb, but I'm not sure I follow. Side of the cylinder? Squish being ? Squish band being? Sorry the terms I'm not understanding. Are you saying the distance between the inside diameter top edge of the cylinder head to the top edge of the piston is the squish point to TDC, with the cylinder head bolted in place and ring on the piston? If this is correct, what am I looking for the thickness of the solder to be after being squished and what size solder diameter should be used? What is the reason for not using the cylinder head gasket? I know many questions and again sorry, this is my first complete chainsaw rebuild.
 

J & L Creations

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Ok this video helped much . Only question I have now is what should the total gap be with a .005 gasket? Thanks.
 

calebng15

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The normal goal is to shoot for .020 of squish. If you have .025 with gasket, that means you can remove the gasket for .020 "squish" more compression. But if you are at .023 squish with gasket than till you take away the gasket, you will have too much squish. If you are going back with an aftermarket cylinder, I'd imagine the squish will be quite a bit more than .020. Least in my past experiences!
 

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Did the squish sequence, the closes measurement was .036" the highest was .047", so I tried it without the cylinder head gasket. I won't have time to perform a pressure test until Saturday, thanks for the info.
 

J & L Creations

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Yes the kit is after market, couldn't beat the price, only $32.00, included all the lower end parts except for the crank and rod. Other parts were included as well that I will keep as spares.
 
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