I'm old enough to remember when rotary mowers were a new thing on the market .The blades I think were recycled tin cans not too good,soft .Every so often they'd hit a rock or something and break the end off a blade which would wound somebody 40 feet away .They weren't too safe .In that aspect blades have improved over the years .They are about like spring steel these days .I've bent them but never broken them .
I got turned on to Oregon mower blades when a spare set was part of the deal on my Zero turn. I googled them later and found they make them for my Husky awd mower too.
selguide_bladelookup.aspx
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Preium blade seem to hold a edge well on the walk behind and the Z turn.
T make every effort to stay away from a mulching blade. I seem to get extra build up of grass in the deck with them.
Al
Too bad.
I run a Scag walk behind with mulching deck kit. Gives a nice cut. Leaves nothing behind when grass is dry.
That's how I do it. In the last couple of years, started balancing them as well.Belt grinder or flap wheels. We have a cheap HF 1x30” belt grinder that does a good job.
The only thing I buy from Magnamatic is their blade balancer, which is excellent. I spent many hours sharpening on an old Magnamatic stone grinder on a stand, starting when I was so young I had to stand on a 5 gallon bucket to reach it (I’m 6’ so that was when I was about 12 years old). That really soured me on a stone grinder, and also on their reverse rotation, which does eliminate a bur, but it also requires much more pressure on the blade, and the sparks blow in your face if outside in the wind. Oregon’s modified Burr King is the runaway leader currently. It has paid for itself way faster than any other costly tool we’ve ever bought. Of course we got it at dealer cost in 2015, so it was 2k and some change.I use a Magna-Matic Mag 8000 blade sharpener. I wish I had known to wait for the Mag 8200B belt grinder.
I do some sharpening in my shop.





