Help! Stihl 026 bearings.

[SawAddictedFarmer]

I'm putting a 026 back together. The guy at our local shop said to just drive the bearings down on the crank and then put the two halves of the crankcase on and squeeze it together. It worked but it has a little bit of resistance, I can turn the crank by hand with 2 fingers so it's not a ton but I'm not sure if I want to leave it like that. Thoughts?

 

[ammoaddict]

I'm putting a 026 back together. The guy at our local shop said to just drive the bearings down on the crank and then put the two halves of the crankcase on and squeeze it together. It worked but it has a little bit of resistance, I can turn the crank by hand with 2 fingers so it's not a ton but I'm not sure if I want to leave it like that. Thoughts?

Is it centered in the crankcase? The seals will cause some resistance if they are in.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

No seals yet. It looks centered the flywheel side went in first until it stopped.

 

[ammoaddict]

I've only put a couple together and it's been awhile but if if spins easy with 2 fingers I would think it's fine. You might want to wait for an expert to chime in.

 

[EFSM]

Make sure you tap on both ends of the crankshaft with a hammer, preferably brass. That will take any load off the bearings.

 

[jacob j.]

This ^^^. If you have a good quality brass hammer, don't be afraid to whack on it pretty good.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Make sure you tap on both ends of the crankshaft with a hammer, preferably brass. That will take any load off the bearings.

This^ Smack it back and forth. It can only move just far enough.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

This^ Smack it back and forth. It can only move just far enough.

I did do this with a hard plastic dead blow and it helped considerably after it was really hard to turn right after putting it back together.

 

[ammoaddict]

I did do this with a hard plastic dead blow and it helped considerably after it was really hard to turn right after putting it back together.

Thats what I use. Honestly if it turns smoothly and not gritty or have tight spots, I would think it's fine.

 

[EFSM]

End load usually makes it feel rough.

 

[tree monkey]

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

That was very helpful! Thanks!!!

 

[drf256]

Scott’s method works well, but I personally only use it on some Husky models that don’t have any type of stop in the case for bearing depth.

I heat the fly side of the case first and drop the bearing in. After a minute or so, the bearing will soak up the heat and I drop the crank right through it. It seats just fine. If you have the time, let the entire assembly cool overnight. The colder the better. Then put your gasket on, but tap the alignment pins in so that they are up just enough to locate the gasket.

Then I use an old metal 024/026 pump on the PTO side of the case as a depth stop. I heat it, then drop the bearing in. After it soaks up some heat, I can usually drop it right over the crank. If it’s not enough, I use the @Mattyo crank case assembly tool to finish the job. I actually install the case bolts to keep the gasket located perfectly before I drive the case home. Then when it’s tight, I drive the locating pins back towards the PTO side.

I use a brass hammer and a punch to tap the crank back and forth after all of it. There should be minimal resistance to rotation when done.