Help me pick bar sizes... and tree pics

[Deets066]

lucky dad?

That's Chris

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I like a wrap to stump with. Pivot the saw on the wrap and if it needs to be lower than 4" than grind it. I'd go 32" light bar. If you want to mill a 44" log you'll need a 48" mill and 50" plus bar.

Only if wanting live edges. If just milling to a cant it most likely will only yield a 31"x31" cant. Depends on desired out come.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

FWIW at 6'2 I go from 24" to 32" then 37" and 42". 24" and 32" are my go to sizes. I have a 28" cannon in .404 and it feels the same as a 24" to me so its a dirty wood bar on a 394. Falling around here I normally grab the 32 if it is only a tree or two. If I am on a clearing job it'll be a 24. Long bars get heavy fast but I agree with Heath... get a regular 32 first. Chain tension and tip location is a learning curve. Glad I figured it out on a regular Oregon instead of a nice bar. Wide tip Stihl is my current favorite bar.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

From Joe?

I did just read on AS that the oregon is "flimsy" guess we shall see.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

Only if wanting live edges. If just milling to a cant it most likely will only yield a 31"x31" cant. Depends on desired out come.

The idea behind the milling of the 40 some odd inch maple would be live edge. Either both edges for a table top, or one edge for counter top.

 

[mdavlee]

I did just read on AS that the oregon is "flimsy" guess we shall see.

They are a little more compared to a stihl or tsumura. They are the lightest.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

FWIW at 6'2 I go from 24" to 32" then 37" and 42". 24" and 32" are my go to sizes. I have a 28" cannon in .404 and it feels the same as a 24" to me so its a dirty wood bar on a 394. Falling around here I normally grab the 32 if it is only a tree or two. If I am on a clearing job it'll be a 24. Long bars get heavy fast but I agree with Heath... get a regular 32 first. Chain tension and tip location is a learning curve. Glad I figured it out on a regular Oregon instead of a nice bar. Wide tip Stihl is my current favorite bar.

I agree. I prefer a 24 most of the time. I was just trying to find a good bar that wouldn't be so tiring I'd never use it, but a size big enough I could fell without making double cuts. That ash at 31" will probably need some work with a 32 where as a 36 could be a one side saw .

 

[hseII]

FWIW at 6'2 I go from 24" to 32" then 37" and 42". 24" and 32" are my go to sizes. I have a 28" cannon in .404 and it feels the same as a 24" to me so its a dirty wood bar on a 394. Falling around here I normally grab the 32 if it is only a tree or two. If I am on a clearing job it'll be a 24. Long bars get heavy fast but I agree with Heath... get a regular 32 first. Chain tension and tip location is a learning curve. Glad I figured it out on a regular Oregon instead of a nice bar. Wide tip Stihl is my current favorite bar.

Wide Tip is where it's at if boring: that's why I recommended, in 36", for sketchy trees: the extra length will be appreciated when there is a bad side, & I promise there will be.

If you hang out with this bunch for very long OP, you will probably be running 0.063" bars, for 2 reasons:
1. It oils better & the longer chain needs the oil.
2. You can pretty much swap tips & go to .404" if, & when.

Correctly Ported 90ish cc saws shine with a 36" 404" in sketchy or dirty wood.


2 Rings & A Flattop, LLC Test Dummy

 

[hseII]

I agree. I prefer a 24 most of the time. I was just trying to find a good bar that wouldn't be so tiring I'd never use it, but a size big enough I could fell without making double cuts. That ash at 31" will probably need some work with a 32 where as a 36 could be a one side saw .

See Above Poast.


2 Rings & A Flattop, LLC Test Dummy

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

Wide Tip is where it's at if boring: that's why I recommended, in 36", for sketchy trees: the extra length will be appreciated when there is a bad side, & I promise there will be.

If you hang out with this bunch for very long OP, you will probably be running 0.063" bars, for 2 reasons:
1. It oils better & the longer chain needs the oil.
2. You can pretty much swap tips & go to .404" if, & when.

Correctly Ported 90ish cc saws shine with a 36" 404" in sketchy or dirty wood.


2 Rings & A Flattop, LLC Test Dummy

Yea, you're costing me money haha. Just picked up the 24" total and 6 RM chains, have 4 RS chains.... All .050. All the bars I'm looking at now are .063 and I hate having two different gages laying around.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I like semi chisel. When do I need to go to skip? As far as bar length goes? I was thinking over 28 should be skip?

The 36" chain I have is not skip and it has ALOT of teeth.

 

[Deets066]

I like semi chisel. When do I need to go to skip? As far as bar length goes? I was thinking over 28 should be skip?

The 36" chain I have is not skip and it has ALOT of teeth.

I run skip on 28 sometimes, not often. But everything over that gets skip

 

[hseII]

Yea, you're costing me money haha. Just picked up the 24" total and 6 RM chains, have 4 RS chains.... All .050. All the bars I'm looking at now are .063 and I hate having two different gages laying around.

So sell the 0.050"


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[Ryan Browne]

Yea, you're costing me money haha. Just picked up the 24" total and 6 RM chains, have 4 RS chains.... All .050. All the bars I'm looking at now are .063 and I hate having two different gages laying around.

I know where you're coming from, but unless you're thinking of buying a roll of chain and making your own loops, I don't think having multiple gauges is a problem. It's not like you could use a 114DL loop on your 84DL bar if only they were the same gauge.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I know where you're coming from, but unless you're thinking of buying a roll of chain and making your own loops, I don't think having multiple gauges is a problem. It's not like you could use a 114DL loop on your 84DL bar if only they were the same gauge.

I was considering buying a roll, but the cost didn't make much sense. I could get 19.8 84DL chains out of a 100' roll, came out to like $15 a piece for stihl. F150 sold me 10 chains for like 21 each plus shipping.

 

[Ryan Browne]

I was considering buying a roll, but the cost didn't make much sense. I could get 19.8 84DL chains out of a 100' roll, came out to like $15 a piece for stihl. F150 sold me 10 chains for like 21 each plus shipping.

And you've got to buy a spinner. Plus, you are stuck with one type of chain. No experimenting with different brands/styles.

 

[hseII]

And you've got to buy a spinner. Plus, you are stuck with one type of chain. No experimenting with different brands/styles.

I don't see the down side to that. [emoji38][emoji38]


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[junkman]

The ,050 light bar had more flex than my .063 does ,.404 chain stiffens it up some more also plus oils better.but does weigh more.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

And you've got to buy a spinner. Plus, you are stuck with one type of chain. No experimenting with different brands/styles.

I was just goin to peen them, like the old timers... I don't experiment with chain anyway, I run stihl RM

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

The ,050 light bar had more flex than my .063 does ,.404 chain stiffens it up some more also plus oils better.but does weigh more.

Theres ann 063 24" bar right now for 130 in the ads. I gave like 80 for my .050 from f150. I bought two of those and 10 chains, gave my dad a bar and 4 chains for christmas.