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handle repair/patch ideas

Wagnerwerks

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I buy a lot of saws with broken rear handles from local saw mills. They drop them non stop. I have a very good plastic welder but still use my soldering station to melt chainsaw plastic back together and then finish it off with the welder. The key is using slices of busted up parts made of the same material and starting out by melting the crap out of the crack as deep as you can. That bonds it and then you fill in the groove.
 

huskihl

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I buy a lot of saws with broken rear handles from local saw mills. They drop them non stop. I have a very good plastic welder but still use my soldering station to melt chainsaw plastic back together and then finish it off with the welder. The key is using slices of busted up parts made of the same material and starting out by melting the crap out of the crack as deep as you can. That bonds it and then you fill in the groove.
What do you do with all the burned black stuff?
 

Wagnerwerks

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What do you do with all the burned black stuff?
At the end you can usually hide some of it, but when you fix an otherwide ruined tank you just look at the black stuff with pride. :) the lower the heat the less burning....
The last one i fixed is the only one i have here and i sprayed the rear of it with spray on bed liner. Im kind of liking it.
 

huskihl

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At the end you can usually hide some of it, but when you fix an otherwide ruined tank you just look at the black stuff with pride. :) the lower the heat the less burning....
The last one i fixed is the only one i have here and i sprayed the rear of it with spray on bed liner. Im kind of liking it.
I've heard of lots of guys seemingly successful at fixing top top covers and the like. Any time I tried it everything turned black. Just curious is all.

I agree. Who cares on a fix like that
 

DrewUth

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I would use an old MX numberplate and a heat gun, along with some screws. Attach to the flat part and heat it up til its soft to mold it around the curves real nice like. Hold it in place with zip ties until it cools, then epoxy or screw into place. If you're careful the molding process will create a form fitting skin that will be plenty strong once epoxied and/or screwed in.
 

MustangMike

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I'd like to see someone else try and comment on that Loctite Premium Adhesive, other than the long 24 Hr dry time, I think the stuff is just flat out Bad A$$! I think it will surprise you.
 

Dub11

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I'd like to see someone else try and comment on that Loctite Premium Adhesive, other than the long 24 Hr dry time, I think the stuff is just flat out Bad A$$! I think it will surprise you.

When this stuff cures is it hard , soft , pliabl?
 

Dub11

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Well just bought me a Makita 6421 but it's got a broken rear handle and looking for ideas to make it work. It's broken right in the bend and has a bad crack in front of it. Any ideas to stiffen it up and make it usable is appreciated.
So how did the repair come out?
 

Brian Carlson

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I been fighting a nasty infected tooth. Hadn't had a chance to do anything with it yet. Another guy told me about some body filler with fiberglass in it. Might try and slather that all over it. It has got to be strong.
 

smokey7

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Whatever you use on it make sure its compatible with the the type of plastic your needing to repair. Every plastic behaves differently.
 

Lightning Performance

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Fixed an 880 handle cracked just like that. Drilled and roughed up with a burr from the bottom. Filled the handle with cut and bent 16penny nails and 3M two part auto body urethane. Sealed, stuck and strong yet pliable. It never moved but still barely flexes.
 

P.M.P.

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