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FergusonTO35

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My other push mower has been giving me fits. It's a lightweight Murray with B&S 300 series OHV engine, model 08P502 0079 F1. Always starts right up and runs great, but about once every 5-10 minutes it starts the typical surge where the RPM goes up and down. Press the primer button a couple of times and it straightens out for awhile. Everything is clean and well maintained on it, governor spring still has plenty of tension. I'm thinking carburetor, they are only $25.00 or so OEM. Or maybe the tank is not venting, however it appears to have a non-vented gas cap.
 

Larry B

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I hate those new briggs plastic carbs. Surging is a common issue. I went through 3 new carbs to get one that didn't surge. There are at least 3 different versions of that carb.
 

FergusonTO35

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Thanks, I went ahead and ordered one from my local small engine shop. Part number 593261, also ordered a new governor spring and intake o-ring just to be safe. Other than that, this mower works great. Much more lightweight than my Craftsman.
 

FergusonTO35

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Hey , what's the deal with certain engines that seem to always show high oil level on the dipstick? I have a B&S 16.5 and Tecumseh 8 on riding mowers that always show super high on the dipstick when you first pull it out, even if it has been sitting for a few days. Wipe off the stick and try it again, and the level shows normal. By comparison, my B&S 10.5 always shows the correct level the first time.
 

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My latest.
Needs a head gasket which I have here, then I need to diagnose why the pto isn't engaging all the time.
I like the layout of the machine as it's quite compact, but the 48" deck "won't cut it" for long, I'll get a 52 or a 60 to replace it. I snagged this one up because I sold my 2008 Exmark Lazer Z, which I sold so I could keep my new to me kubota 2920 :).
Robbed the picture from the ad a few weeks ago when I bought it.
Screen Shot 2021-04-26 at 12.05.17 AM.png
 

FergusonTO35

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Thanks, I went ahead and ordered one from my local small engine shop. Part number 593261, also ordered a new governor spring and intake o-ring just to be safe. Other than that, this mower works great. Much more lightweight than my Craftsman.

Got around to putting on the new carb and adjustment spring and mowed with it awhile. Runs awesome now. Reminded me why I like lightweight push mowers so much.
 

chipper1

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Nice machine, what kinda engine on it?
It's got the Kohler, pretty normal to burn up/blow out head gaskets. Was thinking about doing a HG delete lol.
Picked up a couple jobs so it's gonna be siting for a min, may have a new to me Exmark even before it's fixed :aplastao:.
 

stretch5881

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My latest.
Needs a head gasket which I have here, then I need to diagnose why the pto isn't engaging all the time.
I like the layout of the machine as it's quite compact, but the 48" deck "won't cut it" for long, I'll get a 52 or a 60 to replace it. I snagged this one up because I sold my 2008 Exmark Lazer Z, which I sold so I could keep my new to me kubota 2920 :).
Robbed the picture from the ad a few weeks ago when I bought it.
View attachment 295063

No need to diagnose the pto. Just change the switch for the pto with an upgraded 10 amp one. I've changed a bunch of these.
 

legdelimber

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Along with the switch change, make sure that you have a (working) diode across the clutch coil connector.
The diode needs to be, correctly, oriented for polarity also,
This helps suppress arcing (inductive spike) at the switch contacts and improves its life span.

Kohler part, but all mowers should have one connected to the pto.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12398

They're really a good practice for many coil actuated mechanisms.
Starter solenoid application shown here.
https://www.electricmotorsport.com/contactor-coil-spike-suppression-diode-3a.html
 

chipper1

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No need to diagnose the pto. Just change the switch for the pto with an upgraded 10 amp one. I've changed a bunch of these.
Finally got to the gaskets, pto belt, drive belt, new plugs, and diagnosing the pto/clutch issue.
Clutch just needed adjusting, that's why I said diagnose, no need to spend extra money or time without checking first things first.
This one was leaking internally and externally.
Screen Shot 2021-06-04 at 9.09.22 AM.png Screen Shot 2021-06-04 at 9.09.39 AM.png
 

stretch5881

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I did not know that you could adjust the clutch on that one. I haven't seen an adjustable electric clutch on anything newer than 20 years old.
 

chipper1

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I did not know that you could adjust the clutch on that one. I haven't seen an adjustable electric clutch on anything newer than 20 years old.
This one was real easy, you could access the bolts from the bottom. Tightened them each a 1/4 turn and it now works perfect.
Many the adjustment is on the opposite side and isn't easy to get to or even see if you don't know its there, but all the mowers I've had were adjustable. This model is from around 2008.
 

chipper1

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Forgot to say I snagged up this 2620 last week, so I'll be selling the 2920 as this one has much lower hrs. I swapped the hooks off the bucket, the receiver/D-ring(off the front), steering wheel knob, lights off the roll bar, and the mower deck and all the accessories to mount it. The mount took some time as one of the pins in the arm was seized, then the pin that goes thru the frame on the back was bent and I had to straighten it out yo get it into the new tractor. Not sure how they bent it as its 1"x14" and it was bent about a 1/3 of the way in, it had a 1/4 bend in it :facepalm:. Anyway I used the torch and the hydraulic press(aka wood splitter lol) to straighten it out, works perfect now.
20210602_115004.jpg
I helped a buddy buy and pick up this one up the same day, I had my wife all confused on what and how many I bought:nusenuse:, good thing she loves me :loveyou:.
20210602_154754.jpg
 

chipper1

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I like how Kubota still offers a manual transmission in most of their small tractors.
Most everything I use my little tractors for I would hate to use a manual trans, every now and then I do a large brush hogging job or a large power raking(Harley Rake) job, other than that it's not something I'd want.

Sold the Cub Cadet, on the hunt for another 60". Missed a nice exmark stander last night, not that I was wanting one, but the price was right.
 

FergusonTO35

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Our MF 2706 with shuttle shift is pretty slick. If all you used it for is the loader then I could see hydro being the way to go.
 

chipper1

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Our MF 2706 with shuttle shift is pretty slick. If all you used it for is the loader then I could see hydro being the way to go.
I've always wanted to try one of those.
Lots of back and forth, it would be like driving a stick in the city; lots of work, which it what the tractors are supposed to make less lol.
Here's what I'm working on now, Moving my shed, lots of filling/grading, and installing a gravel highway in my back yard :D. The shed will get moved back when I'm finished with the filling/grading, maybe next week.
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FergusonTO35

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Ok, my grandma's Poulan BC-2400 weedeater is completely rebuilt for another 20 years of service. I bought it new for her in 2001 to use at her farm. Finally got to where it wouldnt even start last year. She effectively got a long block: new crankcase, jug, piston, carburetor, gaskets and seals. Thanks to Larry B for all the advice he gave me on it.

0913211852.jpg
 

FergusonTO35

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No good deed goes unpunished. The varidrive belt broke on my free MTD Lawn Chief 16.5/42 the other day. Dad was kind enough to get some new belts without being asked, of course they were Chicom cheapies. Turns out he blade belt is a bit too short and the blades constantly turn, also the varidrive belt does the classic no go uphill that happens when you use junk belts on these things. Looks like I'll be doing this one again with OEM belts!
 
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