Flywheel pulling?

[LAWN BOY]

I have a homelite 150. I need the whole ignition system off it for another 150. That includes the points and a wire that are under the flywheel. I got the big nut off, but the flywheel is stuck, same case on one of my Stihl 031s that need the points cleaned. I don't have a puller with small enough screws. How else can one remove a stuck flywheel?

 

[FederalQ]

On smaller saws I have used a tapered end punch that fits in the center drilled hole of the crankshaft and give it a whack with a hammer. Make sure to have the saw on an open bench and not hold it down in order to allow it to move when doing this. May not be an approved method but has worked.

 

[Motormouth]

Can also loosen the flywheel nut right past the end of the crankshaft and hit it with a few not-too-hard whacks.

 

[hacskaroly]

I have a bearing puller that fits around some flywheels and will pop them off when cranking down on the center screw. I have done the same as @Motormouth, but you have to watch for deforming the threads, but this has helped me get some off that way too.

 

[Woodwackr]

Can also loosen the flywheel nut right past the end of the crankshaft and hit it with a few not-too-hard whacks.

I do that with small wheels that have no screw holes to mount the various pullers I’ve made. Never had a problem. Some Husqvarna have separate 5mm holes, some require pulling the pawls to use those holes. Later Stihl, I use their tool.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

For most I loosen the nut flush with the end of the crankshaft
Then grab a fin at a flat area with vice grips. Lift the saw by the vice grips the tap the crankshaft with a hammer.
If I can’t grab a fin safely then I will support the flywheel with a wire on each side and tap the flywheel.

 

[Bill G]

I will have to try to remember to take a pic tonight of a puller for the 150

 

[heimannm]

Homelite provided a tool specifically for flywheel removal. If you expect to work on more than 1 or 2 of the smaller models you should find one or make one.





Watch the video starting around 29:30 to see the tool in action.

Mark

 

[Sloughfoot]

If holding the powerhead up by the flywheel in one hand and smacking the crank end with a brass hammer doesn't do it, I use a chisel hammer.

 

[Coupe]

Go to a store that sells car steering wheel pullers as you can pick a kit up for next to nothing.
You will find most flywheels have 3 bolt holes and I have not had a flywheel stump me yet.
If it only has 2 holes they are not hard to make.
If you don't have the right threaded bolt go to your nearest engineering shop as they will be
able to help you. The old hammer and punch method I will do as a last resort as it
does side load your bearings. Pretty sure the steering wheel pullers was like $16 NZ.

 

[Ketchup]

If you add consistent light pressure from underneath with a pry bar or screw driver, a solid whack with a brass hammer almost always works. You can leave the nut on the threads to protect them, but if you’re a bad swing the nut can wreck the threads too. Any side loading that does occur can be easily relieved with a few taps on the clutch side.

LIGHT pressure! BRASS hammer!

 

[LAWN BOY]

Go to a store that sells car steering wheel pullers as you can pick a kit up for next to nothing.
You will find most flywheels have 3 bolt holes and I have not had a flywheel stump me yet.
If it only has 2 holes they are not hard to make.
If you don't have the right threaded bolt go to your nearest engineering shop as they will be
able to help you. The old hammer and punch method I will do as a last resort as it
does side load your bearings. Pretty sure the steering wheel pullers was like $16 NZ.

I have a steering wheel puller, it didn't come with any bolt things that are small enough tho.

 

[LAWN BOY]

If you add consistent light pressure from underneath with a pry bar or screw driver, a solid whack with a brass hammer almost always works. You can leave the nut on the threads to protect them, but if you’re a bad swing the nut can wreck the threads too. Any side loading that does occur can be easily relieved with a few taps on the clutch side.

LIGHT pressure! BRASS hammer!

I'll have to get a brass hammer if I don't have one, thanks.

 

[Sloughfoot]

If you add consistent light pressure from underneath with a pry bar or screw driver, a solid whack with a brass hammer almost always works. You can leave the nut on the threads to protect them, but if you’re a bad swing the nut can wreck the threads too. Any side loading that does occur can be easily relieved with a few taps on the clutch side.

LIGHT pressure! BRASS hammer!

easy peasy

 

[hacskaroly]

LIGHT pressure! BRASS hammer!

Yeah, don't use a forging hammer...don't ask me how I know

 

[Al Smith]

The toughest one I've ever worked was a flywheel for a Mac 125 .For reason unknown the holes for the puller bolts were some odd number 8 screws which took me forever to find which promptly pulled the threads . I tapped them out to 1/4"-20 and still had to heat the hub .
Odd thing was some putz had converted the points to an atom arc and the points system worked,it was all intact .Why they thought the solid state trigger unit was a better idea I'll never know .It's been back to points for over 20 years and I've never had a problem with it .

 

[LAWN BOY]

Yeah, don't use a forging hammer...don't ask me how I know

I know, I kinda wrecked 2 old Briggs. Gonna try to file down the shafts a little to fix them. This was years ago.

 

[dangerousatom]

Like other have said I usually loosen the nut then barley snug it back finger tight. Then Ill find a spot I can slip a flat head screwdriver under the FW so that its got a little bit of bite/wedging going on and hold the FW with my hand or a vice grip and the whole saw off the bench. Giving it a few brisk whacks with a brass or hard plastic dead blow and it almost always jars it loose. My last resort is a ballpeen hammer with a thick washer double sided taped to the nut and then one mean hit gets it off.

The real issue IMO is everyone makes their FW out of aluminum and it goes and galvanically corrodes over years and that actually expands the aluminum tight to the steel.

I used to sell tools and automotive/shop tool equip, and I have yet to see any tool ( Gear, Fly Wheel, Wheel Puller or 2-3-4 jaw ) puller of any type that is a universal fit for a small engine FW situation. Most are too thick or big to get under the FW or just not the right jaw configuration. Rarely do newer FW even have 2 treaded holes to mount a traditional wheel puller.

Getting FW off mulching blowers and track vacs is by far the toughest. Ive found he trick for that if the nut/bolt isnt already stripped of corroded round is 15min of dry ice on the nut followed by torching the FW

 

[hacskaroly]

Why they thought the solid state trigger unit was a better idea I'll never know .It's been back to points for over 20 years and I've never had a problem with it .

I agree, if it works, use it!

 

[pbillyi69]

my steering wheel puller came with several different side bolts. the hardware store has had the correct bolts for the few flywheels that did take the bolts i already had. i have also used the pry tool and small hammer method which is usually the fastest. if they are really stuck a heat gun on the flywheel does the trick.