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Farmertec 372 Crankshaft Bearings

MaximusManimal

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I bought one of the "box-o-parts" kits from Farmertec to assemble a 372. I'm very familiar with 4 stroke engines and their various failure modes, but less so for 2-strokes. Specifically with what kinds of "abnormalities" they can handle.

On inspecting the crankshaft bearings that came in the kit (already pressed into the case halves) I noted debris inside the bearings. This issue had also been noted by several others here and on other forums/youtube, etc so it came as no big surprise.

What did come as a bit of a surprise was how large some of the debris was and the amount I was able to flush out (see image below). Furthermore, some of the pieces are large enough to cause the bearing to cease rotation with gentle finger pressure once they get between a ball and a race (serious red flag to me).

wpSVAVz.jpg


This is from a single bearing and being rather half-hearted about flushing it*. The grit appears to be machining cuttings and/or grindings from the manufacturing process (which is to say it's EXACTLY the kind of abrasive media you DON'T want inside of a bearing!).

At this point I've lost confidence in running the supplied main bearings unless I pull them and give them a good ultrasonic cleaning or just replace them, but part of me thinks I might be being a little nit-picky, so I wanted to reach out here. I would never assemble a low end in a 4-stroke with this kind of contamination, as it's just an invitation to an expensive revisit very soon. Would you experienced lads run a bearing with this kind of "shrapnel" coming out of it? Am I being a paranoid perfectionist and expecting too much from a bargain basement kit?

Would love to hear your thoughts.

*The red liquid is ATF which I happen to have loaded in my oil bottle at the time.
 

Nutball

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I keep flushing the bearings and gently rotate them several times in both directions until there is both no resistance, and no more specs that I can see, and all that after a few extra rinses to be sure nothing is left hidden to move where it shouldn't be. Then, I go ahead and run it knowing the bearings could still fail at any time. They really seem to try hard to scatter grit only inside the crank case and bearings. I don't know what their problem is. Obviously they should know about it because their pre assembled kits seem to run just fine, so they must clean them, and surely many people have told them about the problem. Anyway, I stick to the high quality real saws if I want to do work, the kits are just for fun, or to have a cheap crank case readily available for checking cylinder port timing on.

I prefer WD40 in a syringe because it is so thin it is easy to squirt at high pressure to blast out the particles.
 

Absolution

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This is pretty common with their bearings like you stated. Once it's flushed out I would see no problem. I've worked with diesels that look like glitter bombs when rebuilding. But also as duce stated. SKF. even rebuilding OEM saws I would much rather use SKF stuff.
 

Gord

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Bought pre-assembled bottom end last week with no intentions of using the crank or bearings, just needed cases - they are china ones but the crap in the cases and bearings is amazing, con rod is still standing up in the position i got it in, split the cases and the gasket was not properly in place so it would have leaked oil from the chain oil tank anyway, junk into scrap metal bin a quality bearings and crank going back in, just a project saw I'm playing with.
 

Guysmiley

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I found out recently that skf bearings are commonly counterfeit on eBay. I ordered a pair, one "cheap" nos skf and one "cheap" new skf.

I checked with skf and the new one was certainly counterfeit. Probably from the same factory the ones that come in the kits are from!

To be safe but from authorized dealers only.
 
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