Dolmar 111, fix it or part it opinions

[redline4]

Hi all. Looking for opinions on what to do with a Sachs/Dolmar 111.
The guy I got it from said it ran good until the recoil broke. He stripped out all the recoil parts from the housing, so a new, complete one would need to be obtained.
The clutch cover appears to have been gnawed on by some type of angry beaver, the handle has been epoxied, the handguard is missing, and the attachment point has been broken off the crankcase. All brake parts have been removed.
Compression feels fair based off rotating the flywheel, but without the recoil, I cannot obtain an actual number. Piston and cylinder look pretty good with muffler removed.
Dolmar is not popular in my area, and this is the first I have put hands on. Dealer support is virtually zero, nearest dealer is 100 miles away.

So, is it worth spending the $60 or so to obtain a recoil, or just simply part it out?

 

[merc_man]

Id say fix it up. Will make a decent saw.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Wilhelm]

Get a parts saw and combine!

Parts interchange among: 109 ; 110 ; 111 ; 115 ; PS-43 ; PS-52 ; PS-540

IPL, 01/1988:
http://download.dolmar.com/dipls/8341.pdf

IPL, 07/2017:
http://download.dolmar.com/dipls/31014.pdf

New parts are still in stock.

Disclaimer:
Not all individual parts may interchange among all saw models listed, the IPL's will help identify which do!

 

[mgr1]

Wilhelm, Get a parts saw and combine.
Best answer!

They build this series of saw for 30 years.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I save a couple of parts saws that I simply could not fix for things just like this. Examples include saws run over by pickup trucks or dropped from trees, 60 feet up. Using them, I have saved several others that needed new or used parts to keep going. If this saw looks like it will eventually run (good compression, etc.), it's likely worth trying to save first. Only if it's simply impossible, part it out.

Incidentally, two of the best saws I have are Makita/Dolmar.

 

[redline4]

Thanks for the input guys.
Based off that, I guess it is worth me investing in ordering a new recoil assembly and seeing where it goes from there.
I would be leery of allowing it's use by anyone other than myself due to the lack of handguard and chainbrake, so I guess it could be a backup to my backup if it turns out to be a runner. I wouldn't likely sell it as a running saw for the same reason.
Simply keeping it for parts was a thought, but I see so few Dolmar's around here, finding a use for it in that aspect would likely be slim, although possible.
Being that they are scarce, I didn't know a thing about Dolmar, other than what I have read on the internet prior to obtaining this thing.

 

[Wilhelm]

Owners manual, in German, specs are on page 9.

Till 2009:
http://download.dolmar.com/dmanuals/16161.pdf

Since2010:
http://download.dolmar.com/dmanuals/30129.pdf

 

[psuiewalsh]

I have a nos tank that may fit. What does the clutch side look like? Some of those parts won't exchange due to revisions.

 

[redline4]

Here's a clutch side pic.
First thing is to get the recoil to see if it even runs. I have not had time to vac/press test it either.
Like I said, it looks like something gnawed on it!

 

[redline4]

Ok guys, I got the recoil for this ugly old pile. Pulls 145psi.
I got it to fart, pop, wheeze and finally start. Kind of. It didn't want to rev up period. I found that the fuel line had a split. I did a quick splice job on it with a plastic fitting just to see if I could get it to run. Well, it does. Kind of.
So, while I will be paying shipping, I want to get a carb kit for it right away. From what I am finding, they either had a Walbro or Tillotson.
Mine says Borg-Warner on the top, and does not have a choke, just the injection valve. From what I could find, that means it is a Tillotson?
I can't seem to find a Tillotson kit listed for the 111 model, only 116 etc.
Can anyone tell me if it would be the same kit?
Or, Would I be better off ordering the entire Walbro for $65...?

 

[Simondo]

Ok guys, I got the recoil for this ugly old pile. Pulls 145psi.
I got it to fart, pop, wheeze and finally start. Kind of. It didn't want to rev up period. I found that the fuel line had a split. I did a quick splice job on it with a plastic fitting just to see if I could get it to run. Well, it does. Kind of.
So, while I will be paying shipping, I want to get a carb kit for it right away. From what I am finding, they either had a Walbro or Tillotson.
Mine says Borg-Warner on the top, and does not have a choke, just the injection valve. From what I could find, that means it is a Tillotson?
I can't seem to find a Tillotson kit listed for the 111 model, only 116 etc.
Can anyone tell me if it would be the same kit?
Or, Would I be better off ordering the entire Walbro for $65...?

I think this should help you out when looking for a kit. Tillotson HU carbs were used on the 110 i 111 i and the 115 i .
Some of the later saws had "Happy Start " on them and were also fitted with the injector valve carb. Just as a "heads up". If you go down the Walbro carb option then "if i remember correctly", you will need to find the choke pull and throttle rod that fits as there a different length to the ones on the Tillotson HU carb.

 

[Simondo]

Ok guys, I got the recoil for this ugly old pile. Pulls 145psi.
I got it to fart, pop, wheeze and finally start. Kind of. It didn't want to rev up period. I found that the fuel line had a split. I did a quick splice job on it with a plastic fitting just to see if I could get it to run. Well, it does. Kind of.
So, while I will be paying shipping, I want to get a carb kit for it right away. From what I am finding, they either had a Walbro or Tillotson.
Mine says Borg-Warner on the top, and does not have a choke, just the injection valve. From what I could find, that means it is a Tillotson?
I can't seem to find a Tillotson kit listed for the 111 model, only 116 etc.
Can anyone tell me if it would be the same kit?
Or, Would I be better off ordering the entire Walbro for $65...?

 

[67L36Driver]

FWIW: I have two model 116 here with trashed top ends.

Likely not worth the postage.

Moral of the story. Always run a magnet thru the crankcase. You may find the bits that trashed things from the get go.

 

[redline4]

I ended up putting this one on the back burner as I have a bunch of other stuff going on, but I will keep it in mind that you have parts once I get back to it. Thanks!

 

[psuiewalsh]

Not sure if many parts swap between 111 and 116

 

[67L36Driver]

Not sure if many parts swap between 111 and 116

Just back in my driveway and leave the trunk open. [emoji48]

 

[Basher]

FWIW: I have two model 116 here with trashed top ends.

Likely not worth the postage.

Moral of the story. Always run a magnet thru the crankcase. You may find the bits that trashed things from the get go.

You would be pleasantly surprised with what those parts are worth , if I lived closer we would surely be bartering...

 

[67L36Driver]

You would be pleasantly surprised with what those parts are worth , if I lived closer we would surely be bartering...

Yes, I looked on evilbay. Parted out, the carcass is worth way more than a lump.

 

[redline4]

I finally returned to this project. Due to not being able to read German despite my predominantly German heritage, what are the initial carb settings for this?
I installed a new Dolmar recoil, fuel line and then a carb kit. Easy peasy, piece of corn, can of cake..
Add fuel and pull. And pull, and pull. Curse Sachs, cry to Dolmar. Contemplate seeing how far I can throw it across the yard.
Drop gas into carb, it fires and dies. Again and again.
Cut the 3/16" thick felt wrap off of the fuel filter, just because. Guess what, it starts and runs. Mess with the carb. Seems ok.
Take it out to the pile of pine I cut out my oaks this winter, mostly 4-8" diameter. Gets halfway through 4" cut, and bogs.
Mess with carb. Gets better. Then after 3 or 4 cookies, does the same thing. Mess with carb..repeat, and repeat...
Remove crusty spark arrestor and runs better, for a bit. then same old crap.

Guess it's time to do a vacuum/pressure test, or cut my losses on what I have invested and just part it out. When it ran good, it was ok.
Would I pick it up vs. my 028 Super? No.

As of now, I can't say my first Sachs/Dolmar experience has been good.
I will say that working on it is quite easy though. But compared to my day job as a tech at a GM dealership, all chainsaws are not very complex compared to some of the crap they churn out nowadays.

 

[Simondo]

I finally returned to this project. Due to not being able to read German despite my predominantly German heritage, what are the initial carb settings for this?
I installed a new Dolmar recoil, fuel line and then a carb kit. Easy peasy, piece of corn, can of cake..
Add fuel and pull. And pull, and pull. Curse Sachs, cry to Dolmar. Contemplate seeing how far I can throw it across the yard.
Drop gas into carb, it fires and dies. Again and again.
Cut the 3/16" thick felt wrap off of the fuel filter, just because. Guess what, it starts and runs. Mess with the carb. Seems ok.
Take it out to the pile of pine I cut out my oaks this winter, mostly 4-8" diameter. Gets halfway through 4" cut, and bogs.
Mess with carb. Gets better. Then after 3 or 4 cookies, does the same thing. Mess with carb..repeat, and repeat...
Remove crusty spark arrestor and runs better, for a bit. then same old crap.

Guess it's time to do a vacuum/pressure test, or cut my losses on what I have invested and just part it out. When it ran good, it was ok.
Would I pick it up vs. my 028 Super? No.

As of now, I can't say my first Sachs/Dolmar experience has been good.
I will say that working on it is quite easy though. But compared to my day job as a tech at a GM dealership, all chainsaws are not very complex compared to some of the crap they churn out nowadays.

Carb basic settings in this info for you..