cylinder hone

[066 redeye]

Hi,do you guys use scotch brite balls or flappers for cylinders?
Also what size?I assume 2" for say an 066 cylinder (54mm).
Cheers,Chris

 

[Al Smith]

Actually although I seldom use it ,I have a Lisle precision hone .A ball ,shoe or flap wheel cannot hone to size .A precision hone can .They are very costly and the one I have was given to me or rather traded for a collet draw bar for a lathe .

 

[066 redeye]

Probably should have said something to clean up minor scoring/scratches etc.Thanks for your reply Al.
Cheers,Chris.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I’ve used a small flap wheel on a Dremel for really stubborn transfer removal, worked well but be mindful of going through the chrome. Have you seen Randy’s method? Works well also.

 

[USMC615]

Do folks use any type of flexible, spring/tension adjustable cylinder hones with three stones...in either fine, medium, or course grit sets of stones? Or would even the fine stones be a little aggressive, much less medium or coarse sets of stones?

 

[XP_Slinger]

Do folks use any type of flexible, spring/tension adjustable cylinder hones with three stones...in either fine, medium, or course grit sets of stones? Or would even the fine stones be a little aggressive, much less medium or coarse sets of stones?
View attachment 121101

I never have for transfer removal. My thought is that aluminum would plug the stones up pretty quick. Other opinions may differ though.

 

[Stump Shot]

Do folks use any type of flexible, spring/tension adjustable cylinder hones with three stones...in either fine, medium, or course grit sets of stones? Or would even the fine stones be a little aggressive, much less medium or coarse sets of stones?
View attachment 121101

IF the ports even allow it, and IF you even want it, just a quick in and out will give it enough for break in and oil retention. Otherwise for clean up the flapper wheel and scotch brite wheel are the way to go like Randy has showed us. @Mastermind where's that vidja?

 

[Mastermind]

IF the ports even allow it, and IF you even want it, just a quick in and out will give it enough for break in and oil retention. Otherwise for clean up the flapper wheel and scotch brite wheel are the way to go like Randy has showed us. @Mastermind where's that vidja?

I'm here now.

 

[Stump Shot]

I'm here now.

I can't remember where your video on cleaning up cylinders is stashed around here, could you post a link or something?

 

[XP_Slinger]

Part 1

Part 2

 

[Stump Shot]

Thanks @XP_Slinger

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks @XP_Slinger

No problem bud

 

[decableguy2000]

What I just used. 220 wet/dry on a piece of aluminium rod I split with a hacksaw. The 2 scotch brite buffs I found at local tool store the other day. worked great. Took about 10-20 min.

 

[David Young]

my opinion FWIW.

you want to polish it finer to limit the wear on the new piston.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

The finish hone should be around 5 or 600 grit. Port bevels do better with 1000 grit for polishing.
Using any mechanical devise for spinning grit inside the bore is advanced skill level stuff. Done improperly, a cylinder can be ruined just as fast as a tannerite port job.

 

[srcarr52]

The finish hone should be around 5 or 600 grit. Port bevels do better with 1000 grit for polishing.
Using any mechanical devise for spinning grit inside the bore is advanced skill level stuff. Done improperly, a cylinder can be ruined just as fast as a tannerite port job.

FYI, it would take you a solid 2 minutes with the typical aluminum oxide stoned deglazing hone to burn through the plating that is only a few thousands thick.

 

[Mastermind]

FYI, it would take you a solid 2 minutes with the typical aluminum oxide stoned deglazing hone to burn through the plating that is only a few thousands thick.

One thing most folks overlook in all this is the fact that the piston and the bore very rarely come in contact with each other. We see contact at the bottom of the intake ports on saws with large intake width, and that's due to the piston rocking in the bore a little as it passes over the port. But in most cases there is a film of oil that totally separates the piston from the bore.

 

[drf256]

I hone frequently. If you’ve ever seen a new OEM cylinder, a fine cross hatch is evident.

I use a 3 stone brake hone lubed with WD40. I don’t use a ball for fear that the balls will recess into the ports and then wear plating off at port edges. A 3 stone tends to float above the ports.

I follow that with a rinse and then a scotchbrite hone in 3 grits.

I do a double chamfer on all of my ports, then the sequence above. I’ve never caught a ring on a bevel. Cheap insurance.

It seems that my saws take longer to break in than many others though.

 

[066 redeye]

Thanks for the replies guys.Some good info for me to take in.
Cheers,Chris

 

[smokey7]

I follow a very close sequence of opoerations that the doc does. Except i only use a 240 stones then burgendy scotchbrite. And double tripple check bevels. It seems that the rings and piston are broke in within the first 2 tanks for me. Some of my habits were hard to break since most of my experience prior to this has been iron sleeved liquid cooled pwc motors. Those i leave at 240 grit