Converting 50:1 to 40:1

[Husky187]

Your best interest would be to learn how to properly tune all your 2t ope. Weed whips and blowers need tuning also being they are run in varying temps and humitity levels.

I run all my 2t at 32:1 and tune when needed.

I'd ideally want to run everything off of the 40:1 and to know how to properly tune everything. I just don't want to blow something up in the process. I've read though that running 40:1 in a 580bts blower spits a lot of oil out (I own one and run it at 50:1 currently). Is this issue related to improper tuning then?

 

[CR888]

Tuned correctly, no oil/spooge should be coming out the muffler. Don't over think the big '50:1 - 40:1' ratio change, everything will be fine and not 'blow up' if you make some small tuning changes.

 

[Al Smith]

Truth be known you could probably cook an old McCulloch even running 32 to one if you leaned it out far enough .It would not run worth a hoot though.

You folks with these newer saws that must be as fickle as teenage prom queen on tuning .The newest I own are a pair of Stihl 200T's and they aren't that way nor I might add are some of these old Macs that go back a half a century .Those by the way are not all carboned up as some might think .I've had enough of them apart to tell .

 

[Joe Kidd]

I'd ideally want to run everything off of the 40:1 and to know how to properly tune everything. I just don't want to blow something up in the process. I've read though that running 40:1 in a 580bts blower spits a lot of oil out (I own one and run it at 50:1 currently). Is this issue related to improper tuning then?

Nope. Not in this case, it's the design. Even @50:1 some oil will still collect at the bottom of the air intake tube.

 

[sawmikaze]

I'd ideally want to run everything off of the 40:1 and to know how to properly tune everything. I just don't want to blow something up in the process. I've read though that running 40:1 in a 580bts blower spits a lot of oil out (I own one and run it at 50:1 currently). Is this issue related to improper tuning then?

My br450 does a little oozing on 40:1 with saber...its only turnin 7000 rpm's or so...dont worry about it.

 

[Husky187]

Should I not run the Klotz Original Techniplate anymore? I know the oil threads are beaten to death, but is there a best oil to run then, at least for 40:1?

 

[junkman]

If run saber in a saw is it a sabersaw ?

 

[Joe Kidd]

If run saber in a saw is it a sabersaw ?

Well hell yes.

 

[Joe Kidd]

Should I not run the Klotz Original Techniplate anymore? I know the oil threads are beaten to death, but is there a best oil to run then, at least for 40:1?

IMO there's not a best oil, but Klotz KL200 is a good one. Some notables are Maxima K2, Yamalube 2R, Honda HP2, Amsoil Saber, Red Armor gfy keith, Husky XP. I'm sure I missed some. I think we sometimes overthink 2T oil, and stumble over one to pickup another.
After trying so many I'm trying to just use two, 2R and RA.

 

[KenJax Tree]

Around and around it goes, will the dog catch its tail nobody knows.

 

[Husky187]

IMO there's not a best oil, but Klotz KL200 is a good one. Some notables are Maxima K2, Yamalube 2R, Honda HP2, Amsoil Saber, Red Armor gfy keith, Husky XP. I'm sure I missed some. I think we sometimes overthink 2T oil, and stumble over one to pickup another.
After trying so many I'm trying to just use two, 2R and RA.

I was actually originally running the Husqvarna XP oil, just because my dealers had them cheap, switched because I got the impression that there were better alternatives out there. Plus I like the way the Klotz smells.

 

[Brewz]

Run them all on 40:1
I run my smaller lower reving stuff like blower and weedeater at 50:1 as they seem to blow oil and carbon up at less that chainsaw speeds and they spend more time at part throttle.

My saws, I run 40:1 using a good oil and 91 octane E free fuel and they love it.
I like Castrol 2T Activ mineral oil. no smoke, no carbon, bugger all smell that is non offensive and its cheap.

Thats just what I do.

My one bit of advice here will be to not tune the saw using recommendations of 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn more or less just cause you change oil ratio.
Learn to listen to the saw and tune it each time you use it.

Get your saw up to full cutting temp first and always tune with a full tank of fuel.
full revs, wind the H screw in and you will hear the revs raise and at a point it will go from a rough blubbering sound to a clean scream.
The clean sound is lean. You dont want that.
As soon as you hear this, start opening the H screw again to let in more fuel till you hear it go rough again. As soon as it starts to burble its 4 stroking and you are back into the safer range.

Every saw tunes different, sounds different and needs to be tuned differently depending on the fuel, oil type, oil ratio, altitude, etc etc.

Basically, learn to tune and don't rely on hoping its right because assumption is the mother of all evil.

 

[Husky187]

It seems that once I put the 40:1 mix in my saws they seems to be reacting just the same, rev wise, and don't seem to be creating any type of bad signs. Is this an issue or should I just continue to run and see how they react?

 

[Brewz]

Well go cut some

 

[jakethesnake]

It seems that once I put the 40:1 mix in my saws they seems to be reacting just the same, rev wise, and don't seem to be creating any type of bad signs. Is this an issue or should I just continue to run and see how they react?

If they are running fine leave em be I have some saws that would need a tune if I change even type of oil others I've went from 50:1 to 32:1 with no issue at all if your saw is running the way it did before I wouldn't lose any sleep over it

 

[Brewz]

If they are running fine leave em be I have some saws that would need a tune if I change even type of oil others I've went from 50:1 to 32:1 with no issue at all if your saw is running the way it did before I wouldn't lose any sleep over it

Totally agree
Each saw is different and will react differently.
What works for some may not be right on your saw.
If you are still unsure, take it to someone who is experienced at tuning to double check it for you.

 

[rogue60]

Run them all on 40:1
I run my smaller lower reving stuff like blower and weedeater at 50:1 as they seem to blow oil and carbon up at less that chainsaw speeds and they spend more time at part throttle.

My saws, I run 40:1 using a good oil and 91 octane E free fuel and they love it.
I like Castrol 2T Activ mineral oil. no smoke, no carbon, bugger all smell that is non offensive and its cheap.

Thats just what I do.

My one bit of advice here will be to not tune the saw using recommendations of 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn more or less just cause you change oil ratio.
Learn to listen to the saw and tune it each time you use it.

Get your saw up to full cutting temp first and always tune with a full tank of fuel.
full revs, wind the H screw in and you will hear the revs raise and at a point it will go from a rough blubbering sound to a clean scream.
The clean sound is lean. You dont want that.
As soon as you hear this, start opening the H screw again to let in more fuel till you hear it go rough again. As soon as it starts to burble its 4 stroking and you are back into the safer range.

Every saw tunes different, sounds different and needs to be tuned differently depending on the fuel, oil type, oil ratio, altitude, etc etc.

Basically, learn to tune and don't rely on hoping its right because assumption is the mother of all evil.

Thousands and thousands of oil threads on oil and Brewz (as many have before) sums it all up in one post classic! haha.

Now we're where we that's right same old ,I heard oil is bad for my 2T engine with so many fast moving parts and all ,and I know adding any more oil than 50:1 will lean it out and blow it up! would I be better going to 60:1 for longevity? I mean take 48:1 thats a hell of a lot more oil and apart from costing 800 dollars more a year to cut my firewood can the piston really take that much more abrasive wear from the nasty oil stuff? would 49:1 be safer? oil is known to be very bad stuff for robbing power (at least 3hp for every millilitre added and is shocking for getting in the way of straight gasolines exsalonce in film strength!.
And what about the carbon in the EX port after one tank? I mean big chunks of carbon could break off and smoke the rings and bore? way to risky for my liking and I don't want to be decoking every tank

The reality is the do gooder powers that be have done a very good job at brainwashing humans that oil is bad the end.
Give it a few more years they will have most draining there sumps to get rid of the nasty oil stuff lol. I mean you only need that nasty oil stuff in internal combustion engines from the 1920's this is 2016 get with the times! engines don't rub metal on metal like that anymore duh!..
Not having a go at anyone just pointing out the times we live in literally! sad but true...
Now I say we all should get with the times and no longer call oil oil? a better fitting name would be SAND whos with me? lol Sooo how much sand you running in ya fuel? OMG that's a lot of Sand she's gonna blow risk taker crazy human! lol

 

[Brewz]

Thousands and thousands of oil threads on oil and Brewz (as many have before) sums it all up in one post classic! haha.

Now we're where we that's right same old ,I heard oil is bad for my 2T engine with so many fast moving parts and all ,and I know adding any more oil than 50:1 will lean it out and blow it up! would I be better going to 60:1 for longevity? I mean take 48:1 thats a hell of a lot more oil and apart from costing 800 dollars more a year to cut my firewood can the piston really take that much more abrasive wear from the nasty oil stuff? would 49:1 be safer? oil is known to be very bad stuff for robbing power (at least 3hp for every millilitre added and is shocking for getting in the way of straight gasolines exsalonce in film strength!.
And what about the carbon in the EX port after one tank? I mean big chunks of carbon could break off and smoke the rings and bore? way to risky for my liking and I don't want to be decoking every tank

The reality is the do gooder powers that be have done a very good job at brainwashing humans that oil is bad the end.
Give it a few more years they will have most draining there sumps to get rid of the nasty oil stuff lol. I mean you only need that nasty oil stuff in internal combustion engines from the 1920's this is 2016 get with the times! engines don't rub metal on metal like that anymore duh!..
Not having a go at anyone just pointing out the times we live in literally! sad but true...
Now I say we all should get with the times and no longer call oil oil? a better fitting name would be SAND whos with me? lol Sooo how much sand you running in ya fuel? OMG that's a lot of Sand she's gonna blow risk taker crazy human! lol

To decipher for our non Aussie brothers, Rogue60 is saying to use plenty of oil and go cut some wood!

 

[Brewz]

I have a Husky 576 Auto tune here that had cactus poison mixed in the fuel instead of oil
Its proper stuffed but no cactus in sight!

Oil works better

 

[Al Smith]

The ever lasting oil wars,gotta luv it