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Converting 50:1 to 40:1

7sleeper

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Come on guys keep up the great logic! Just run your stuff on 1:10, siezing should be impossible with that. Running too but who cares your engine will last forever...

For me 1:50 is absolutely sufficient!

7
 
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RIDE-RED 350r

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Me too,we're both in the soup I guess .

Then again being a dumbazz somebody is going to have to explain to me how running a richer oil mix could cause a lean burn .If that were so I'd have thought those old Johnson and Mercury boat motors would have seized up.How they ever kept running for 50 some years remains a great mystery .Oh not to mention ,right from the book on McCulloch go kart racing engines they recommended 20 to one .How is that so ?BTW that was racing oil not SAE 30WT .

Because first off, those engines were designed and jetted to run that mix ratio. Not to mention carbs on those old outboards were infinitely adjustable, and easily done on the fly to boot. And secondly, they were not putting out high HP per CI or CC, in other words, they weren't very high strung performance engines..a bit more forgiving. Maybe not so much so compared to chainsaws, but compared to modern sleds, jet skis and others that still run 2-stroke engines they much less high strung.

To better explain why I stated that increasing oil in your premix will lean combustion mix:

First we have to understand what purpose the premix oil serves. That is to lubricate all of your major moving engine internals, IE crank bearings, rod bearing, wrist pin, and cylinder wall. It does not accomplish this if it is all taken into the combustion chamber and burned. Most of the oil is intended to and does fall out of suspension with the fuel charge once it is taken into the crankcase. And when it does it coats everything inside the crankcase with a thin film of oil, mission accomplished,the oil has done it's job at this point. This happens with every intake cycle. Yes some does make it's way into the combustion chamber along with the fuel mixture, as evident with that wonderful smelling blue smoke. This is mainly an unavoidable side effect, not a desired effect..at least with most common 2-stroke tech and designs that we have today..But it is getting better with stratified and direct injection 2-stroke engines...

Now, the reason most people have it backwards when it comes to the relationship between premix ratio and combustion mixture. Most mistakenly think that more oil in the premix will make the engine inherently richer..well, in a minor sense it does, but only in terms of bottom end lubrication and emissions in the form of oil smoke. What I am talking about is actual combustion mixture, the blend of gasoline and air needed to ignite and drive the piston downward. This mixture is directly related to the life of your engine and how it runs. Too much fuel and it will run, down on power but won't hurt a thing. Too little and she burns down due to too much heat being generated by the higher amount of oxygen compared to fuel. We've all seen lean burn-downs and what evidence it leaves behind.. Now consider this, your fuel circuits are only so big and only a certain amount of fuel/oil mix can pass through them at any given time. When you add MORE oil to your fuel premix, what happens to the amount of fuel you are delivering to your engine for combustion if you do not make adjustments to compensate?? Answer: It is reduced. Now, I am not saying a burn down is guaranteed if a person goes from 50:1 to 40:1 on a stock saw that is not tuned to the ragged edge for performance. But what I am saying is that you are in fact leaning the fuel mixture for combustion, and in some cases of highly modded saws, or saws hat are kept tuned to the ragged edge, one could very reasonably expect to experience signs of at least a minor lean condition. Take things to the extreme with modding or big changes in premix ratio, the results will coincide.

Hope that helps you to understand. :)
 

bikemike

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Me too,we're both in the soup I guess .

Then again being a dumbazz somebody is going to have to explain to me how running a richer oil mix could cause a lean burn .If that were so I'd have thought those old Johnson and Mercury boat motors would have seized up.How they ever kept running for 50 some years remains a great mystery .Oh not to mention ,right from the book on McCulloch go kart racing engines they recommended 20 to one .How is that so ?BTW that was racing oil not SAE 30WT .
I have a 15cc gas Sawzall that's rated for 20.1 ratio
 

Jwalker1911

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I run 32:1 in all my two strokes. My kid is on the same spark plug in his YZ85 that we put in 2 years ago and he is ripping around every weekend.
 

Al Smith

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That's one perception not totally agreed on and often a subject for debate .However the fact is chainsaw carbs for the most part are adjustable ,at least mine are .However I don't own any with limiters on them and If I did they would be removed . Last I heard it was the ratio of fuel to air not fuel to oil that caused lean out problems discounting air leaks of course.

Now I don't personally care what a person uses in their saw,run amsoil at 100 to one if you want ,I won't myself .Also I know a lot of race saws builders and I don't think any of them runs lean oil mixtures in saws ranging in value up to several thousand dollars. On occasion I will run Stihl ultra but instead of I think it's 2.5 gallon of gas per little bottle I use two gallon mainly because that's what the gas can holds and I'm not buying another one .Nor do I retune the saw unless it's running lean .

I might further add in my collection I have one of the fastest stock saws ever made bar none,a Husqvarna 2100 .It runs real good on 32 to 1 .I'd just hate it if I ruined that thing .
 

Nitroman

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Look, just start your saw and let it run for about five minutes at the temp you are going to cut at. Maybe run it a little higher than idle, but just a little. Wait until you feel toasty warm air coming out the other side of the cylinder.
Run your H screw out about 1/2 turn, start to increase throttle and keep going up on rpm until you are at WOT. If at any time your motor starts to clean up and run smooth, just turn the H screw about 1/16 out and keep doing this until you are holding the throttle all in and the engine is still rough.
Now gently turn the H screw IN (lean), until the motor JUST cleans up, back screw out about 1/64th turn (a few degrees) and you are good.
Finish setting low and idle screws. Now go back and slowly increase throttle until wide open making sure engine is still a little rough at WOT.
Go cut wood.
Once you have done this about 10 times, it'll take you less than a minute to tune your saw...seriously.
 

Husky187

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Might it just be in my best interest to just run them all at 50:1, then there wouldn't be any readjustments that'll need to be made?
 

P.M.P.

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Might it just be in my best interest to just run them all at 50:1, then there wouldn't be any readjustments that'll need to be made?
Why not they"re your saws mix it with 87 regular as well its cheaper.

K2 32:1 e-free FTW
 
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Duane(Pa)

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Oil threads suck! 50:1 is forAmerican sheep to help curb air pollution. Oil is made up of hydrocarbons oxygen isn't.
 

paragonbuilder

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Might it just be in my best interest to just run them all at 50:1, then there wouldn't be any readjustments that'll need to be made?

I ran my saws at 50:1 for 20 years til I found this site. And I still do... but I'm using Amsoil. Your saws are stock, they will be fine at 50:1.
But learning to tune them has another advantage. If you know what to listen for, when something goes wrong you will know it and can repair or get it repaired before it burns up.
 

Redfin

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Might it just be in my best interest to just run them all at 50:1, then there wouldn't be any readjustments that'll need to be made?
Your best interest would be to learn how to properly tune all your 2t ope. Weed whips and blowers need tuning also being they are run in varying temps and humitity levels.

I run all my 2t at 32:1 and tune when needed.
 

MustangMike

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If you are going to run a device with limiters, just always open the Hi to the max, it will never be too much.

And I will repeat, lead is a lubricant, running leaded gas with 50:1 mix was a lot safer than running unleaded at 50:1.

So, how hard do you want to be able to use your equipment, and how long do you want it to last.
 

bikemike

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Too lean is too bad. Only reason I went to 50.1 is cause I'm using amsoil Saber and the small saw don't clean out fast enough no matter the tune. If I use stiHL or echo oil I run 40.1 or thicker cause carbon is easy to clean out and plugs n screen is cheeper than a engine or engine parts. I've spent less on plugs screen and filters than what you can buy bearings, Slug n jug, seals. Phuk the epa and there specs that manufacturers of equipment say you need to run so they can sell a saw. More oil less mosquitoes bothering you.
 

jakethesnake

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My husky weed eater doesn't run worth *s-word less I use 50 1. Basically have to chase it with a screwdriver Prolly eventually just gonna put in a new carb it's been apart enough seems it holds a tune on 50:1 but no more oil than that
 

bikemike

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My husky weed eater doesn't run worth *s-word less I use 50 1. Basically have to chase it with a screwdriver Prolly eventually just gonna put in a new carb it's been apart enough seems it holds a tune on 50:1 but no more oil than that
Damned epa leaned out carbs
 

jake wells

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tuned right and if the equipment is stock 40 or 50:1 is safe.
 
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