Chain catchers

[av8or3]

Was just wondering how you fellows use the chain catchers on your saws. I recently acquired a saw that had both the roller type and the aluminum “curl” on it at the same time. Pros or Cons? I have always removed the curl once the roller was installed myself. But I wonder what’s best?

 

[Loony661]

I always remove the aluminum curl if I install a roller..

With that being said, I like to install the roller catcher “backwards”. I like it mounted to the inner spike so that the cover slips over the stud just like the bar studs. Works better for me anyway.

 

[Wilhelm]

The best?

Don't throw Your chains!

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I've thrown a slightly loose chain into a curled aluminum catcher when in brush, effed up the catcher and chain (they filed out) but I was fine. Now I tighten the chain a tweak more for brush and loosen it back up for limbing and bucking.

A co-worker who refuses to run anything but dangly chain removed the catcher parts so as to not wreck the chain and has been fine tossing chains regularly for years until two weeks ago when he wrapped one around his hand and into his leg. Chain was fine though.

 

[Woodslasher]

Was just wondering how you fellows use the chain catchers on your saws. I recently acquired a saw that had both the roller type and the aluminum “curl” on it at the same time. Pros or Cons? I have always removed the curl once the roller was installed myself. But I wonder what’s best? View attachment 394959

Take off the aluminum one if you're running a roller catcher. I didn't on my 562 when I was crawling in the brush and multiple times a day a twig would jam between the two catchers and stop the chain. After 1 or 2 days of taking off the clutch cover to clear clogs I realized what was happening and pulled the aluminum one and it's been mostly trouble free since.

For catcher styles, I prefer the roller type. They work good and they seem less harmful to the chain, and they allow greater freedom when you're making or installing custom dawgs.

 

[av8or3]

You know

Take off the aluminum one if you're running a roller catcher. I didn't on my 562 when I was crawling in the brush and multiple times a day a twig would jam between the two catchers and stop the chain. After 1 or 2 days of taking off the clutch cover to clear clogs I realized what was happening and pulled the aluminum one and it's been mostly trouble free since.

For catcher styles, I prefer the roller type. They work good and they seem less harmful to the chain, and they allow greater freedom when you're making or installing custom dawgs.

that’s interesting. Yesterday while running this saw, twice I stopped to remove a chunk of wood/bark that became wedged in there. I have removed the aluminum catcher.

 

[Philbert]

Use something. And gloves, chaps.

I don’t think that having both on the same saw, however, gives you more protection.

A lot of guys think that the soft, alloy ‘curl’ catchers bang up the harder chain drive links when the chain jumps off the bar.

But it is the drive sprocket, especially a spur sprocket, that does the most damage.

A STIHL rep told me to file off any damage and re-shape the catcher, if bent, as long as it’s not cracked.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Most so-called chain catchers are designed to break apart after a few years. About every chainsaw I have worked on for a tree service company has literally been chopped in half by the chain. And, they never seem to ask for a replacement. So, I have very few in the boneyard

 

[Philbert]

About every chainsaw I have worked on for a tree service company has literally been chopped in half by the chain. And, they never seem to ask for a replacement.

It’s a small thing. And most chains just drop if they jump the guide bar.

But in the rare case when a loop breaks, especially on the top of the bar, it can come whipping around.

Small likelihood. Potentially significant injury. Simple controls: chain catcher; wide flat spot under rear handle; gloves; chaps.

The cut-in-half catchers you describe are evidence of the risk.

Philbert