countryhog
BTDT
- Local time
- 9:15 PM
- User ID
- 615
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2016
- Messages
- 1,175
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- Location
- NW Arkansas
i find that soaking them in solvent for a few days helps much
i have unstuck rusted engines with that acetone atf ,it cleans pretty good ,old timer turned me on to that mixture .Never heard of that one,I did read somewhere on the Internet that some folks soak them in pine sol.Atf does have a lot of detergent in it.
(Sometimes) what feels like bad carb, or no spark is actually low compression, so the question is, are you following a good troubleshooting procedure? I recently had one that would start 15-sec, then die; turned out to be a bent fuel line was actually crimped shut & trimming 1/8" from length cured problem.One of my faults is sometimes i can fix a carb ,sometimes i can not ,is there more to it than a kit and a can of carb cleaner ? sometimes they work after cleaned out ,sometimes they do not ,like my string trimmers .what am i missing besides blowing out the passages on something that will not start ? Anyone care to do a in detail how to on this subject ?
have had fuel lines sucking air on my husky chop saw 371k ,i bought a new carb because it would run off mix poured down carb throat but not on it's own ,took carb apart ,sprayed carb cleaner ,seemed to be going through all the passages ,but no start ,got fed up bought a new carnb ,same thing ,it had a pinhole crack where entered the tank i could not see ,shortened the hose started right up ,my string trimmer i have 2 of same model ,so can rob parts off the other for diagnostics ,1 out of 3 times on those i can seem to get the carb going again though ,new ones are about 40 bucks so my time is worth that if it is a quick fix .(Sometimes) what feels like bad carb, or no spark is actually low compression, so the question is, are you following a good troubleshooting procedure? I recently had one that would start 15-sec, then die; turned out to be a bent fuel line was actually crimped shut & trimming 1/8" from length cured problem.
(Sometimes) you have a clogged port under the welch plug that wasn't cleaned (because that part was not in the kit); (Sometimes) carb was not the issue. Were full troubleshooting procedures followed? Did it kick when fuel put into carb? or has it got another problem, and carb was "assumed"? E.g. was spark checked, Was muffler pulled to inspect piston, was compression tested?One of my faults is sometimes i can fix a carb ,sometimes i can not ,is there more to it than a kit and a can of carb cleaner ? sometimes they work after cleaned out ,sometimes they do not ,like my string trimmers .what am i missing besides blowing out the passages on something that will not start ? Anyone care to do a in detail how to on this subject ?
Those symptoms of revving before dying also applied to (my) pinched fuel line to the primer; Pinched just enough to allow priming to start, but not allow normal vacuum fuel flow; Start and then die, reprime to restart; shortening line 1/8" straightened enough to get good flow, LOLWhen the saw is at an idle with the throttle plate closed, there isn't much air flow across the discharge nozzle (check valve) to create a low pressure on the discharge nozzle. That's why the check valve is there, it prevents air from being pulled back into the 'wet side' of the carb.
Inside the carb, the fuel is being sucked out of the 'wet side' of the carb. It is easier to suck in air through the discharge nozzle than fuel through the metering system. Eventually, you run out of fuel and the engine quits idling.
If you have a saw that will idle for a little bit, then have the revs increase a bit (leaning out) just before it dies, that could be a symptom of a bad check valve. If you have to use the choke to get it restarted (even when the saw is already warm), that's another sign it is a bad check valve.
Unfortunately, I don't know of a way to fix the bad check valve other than putting in a new discharge nozzle. However, they're not that expensive and easy to replace.
Luminox.....@ $80/gal, it better rebuild and tune the carb tooStraight gas will get into/ under crud and into the pores of the metal floating the crud. Do not let the gas evaporate before flushing the crud out. when the gas/solvent evaporates the crud hardens and sticks to the clean metal.
Having a surfactant, to float and suspend the crud so it can be flushed out is even as the gas evaporates tends to work better.
Kroil or Marvel mistry oil and a solvent/gas will tend to hold the crud in suspension so it can be flushed out.
This information is from gun cleaning and my 40+ years in the drycleaning business.
75% solvent/gas and 25% oil seems to get the crud.
An ultrasonic cleaner with some Luminox and water will flush out the loosened crud as a final cleanout.
Luminox is PH neutral and leaves no residue. It is for soft metals. This cleaner is for cleaning lab/medical equipment.
In the end if all else fails those little cubes of metal can be flung very hard or a long way, whatever the offending carb needs to notice your displeasure with it.
Troof!it is cheaper than sex.