Can’t get C1 chain to cut

[davidwyby]

Ground the same angles as Oregon and Stihl on my USG, it’s slow and chattery. It’s in the foreground, Oregon in the back.

 

[Michpatriot]

First looking at it and it may be the camera playing with the looks but, is the depth gauge real low? I typically also round the front of the gauge to where it is sloped in a arc right to the tip where I measure at when I can..but I dono if this little nuance would really cause what you are describing. Is it anti vibe tie strap? Try any different hook shapes yet? I had some real disappointing results on the last job with some 3\8 picco that I square ground, it ran awesome in hardwood in the fall but when I tried it in 5° on live frozen maple it was dismal..like i put the saw back in the vehicle scratching my head and grabbed another saw..Its always interesting to see all the different stuff that we try to overcome with saws..Sometimes I think I'm A glutton for punishment..I go to such great length to get what I want.

 

[Funky sawman]

Looks like that depth gauge is a little low

 

[Funky sawman]

For the softwoods round here, I keep it simple with 30,60,30.
30 degree top plate
60 degree side plate
30 thousand depth gauge

 

[Michpatriot]

On second look the cutter in the front has a more blunt profile compared to the cutter in the rear..differences between the shape of the back of the cutters between manufacturers will sit different when indexed by the tooth advance arm..having a more forward or rearward positioning in relation to the wheel would do this? Top plate also looks thicker on the one in front..tunnel it..lol

 

[davidwyby]

DG are a bit low, I was trying to get it to cut straight by filing them in the field a while back, turned out to be the bar. To even then out, they all ended up low. But, with good angles and low rakers is should be grabby but fast…it’s slow. I’ve tried husky roller, Stihl 2n1, and more and less aggressive angles on the grinder. It hasn’t cut well since new, I think I have 3 loops of it.

 

[davidwyby]

On second look the cutter in the front has a more blunt profile compared to the cutter in the rear..differences between the shape of the back of the cutters between manufacturers will sit different when indexed by the tooth advance arm..having a more forward or rearward positioning in relation to the wheel will do this.

On a USG, that inside angle is all the tilt of the wheel…they were ground with the same settings, I’ll try more aggressive. The only difference I can see is the C1 is thicker material all around. Also when filing it, it left a weird gullet hanging out to the outside…going deeper on the grinder got it out but it still doesn’t cut. I’ll have to find the other loops and try different stuff on the grinder. Probably end up saving them for finishing cuts where I hit nails. They are 24”. Have been running them on 266/670. Maybe grind them aggressive and put them on the ported 7900 with an 8 pin. That should make them eat.

 

[davidwyby]

I was thinking about tunneling and clipping too but for crying out loud…

 

[Michpatriot]

I know! How much to get a basic chain to come alive huh..I was mostly kidding..lay the wheel over a couple more degrees, I bet it'll cut..might be grabby for a bit cause the drags are low.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I,m wondering if your usg wheel needs dressing ?

From the pic it seems to look like the chain in the front has slightly less hook than the Oregon at the back.

 

[Deets066]

Never heard of a chain not cutting because of the brand. If all things are correct and it’s sharp…. It should cut.

 

[pbillyi69]

put a little more hook into the top and see if it will cut

 

[Ford3000]

With such low depth gauges, the teeth will tilt up and drag, more hook
will make it dig in again. I did this with a carlton .325 chain, the only
chain that did not cut after sharpening, and I sharpened it by hand like
the oregon 21lpx chains I was using.

 

[pbillyi69]

if you want you can send it to me and i will grind it square. then see if it cuts

 

[Ford3000]

if you want you can send it to me and i will grind it square. then see if it cuts

Then he will never be the same again.

 

[davidwyby]

Then he will never be the same again.

I have some square by the famed @Armbru84, I know…

@pbillyi69 thats an idea…hey ! I have an ATOP I never have tried… @Philbert

 

[pbillyi69]

you could send me one of the new loops and i could make it square then you would also have a profile to follow.

 

[davidwyby]

Drug out the stock loop. The first one got turned into cowboy skip. I thought maybe it just needed the more aggressive stock angles, .025” DG…nope. Maybe slightly faster and less rough but still terrible compared to my Oregon and stihl grinds. Been using 266 as a test mule, might try another saw just because…

 

[pbillyi69]

that should cut just fine. maybe they are poorly tempered and just dull instantly. i have sharpened other peoplea chain that would cut good for a few seconds then become dull and not cut. i dont know why but i sharpened this one chain five times in about a half an hour, it was really messed up when i started the first filing took a bit of work. and it ran the longest after the first time which was only about five cuts. the following times it would only stay sharp for for about fifteen seconds.. i finally said that chain was toasted it would not stay sharp. i used to hand file my climbing saw chain and pole saw chain. im good at it and that chain was just shot

 

[davidwyby]

NOW I have a real mystery, ha! I put the new loop on the 670 and it cut fine and smooth. I mean not great but ok, way better than on the 266…so now why???