HELP! Busted clutch removal

[footstep]

Any of you guys have an idea how to pull this busted up clutch from my project homelite 650? Looks like someone made an attempt and tore it up good, I've been soaking it with break free all day, I was thinking to drill out the threaded clutch cover plate holes to a bigger diameter, any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Junk Meister]

Not trying to talk down to any one but many times a fella doesn't know clutches are LEFT HAND threads. So now your clutch hub is SUPER tight.
Use a ROPE in the plug hole not a piston stop. Use plenty but don't let the rope into the exhaust or intake port. (pull the starter rope in the recoil out a tad for recoil protection) Take up the Slack at the hub going counter clockwise POT the umph to it with a gadget I neglected to tell ya to make before You did all of the above (SORRY about that). Do your best not to put any cattywampus (Spell check accepts thet word WOW) Pressure and bugger the end of your crank. If you could fabricate a spanner wrench to use those 2 holes in the hub get it already and wrap a cold REAL COLD wet rag under the hub to protect the seals and stuff from heat.....Put a dab of quick heat (Torch) on the hub but not the end of the crank AND LEFTY LOOSEY IT .. if it does or does not work do your best to keep your crank cool. Your spanner pins needs to go into the holes all the way and the face of metal your pins are in needs to be as close to the hub as possible (don't round/smear those holes}
Or use a cut off wheel and cut as safely close as you can to the crank threads on 2 sides. I would prefer option #1 Good Luck.

 

[av8or3]

Did you mean RIGHTY loosen it ? It will come loose if you turn it to the right , only gets tighter turning to the left.

 

[footstep]

Good thing the clutch spider has an idiot mark with an arrow & OFF indicating removal direction, I hope I can get this off without the cutoff wheel, so I'll keep soaking it for a few more days before I try, next day off is Wednesday.

 

[Squareground3691]

Not trying to talk down to any one but many times a fella doesn't know clutches are LEFT HAND threads. So now your clutch hub is SUPER tight.
Use a ROPE in the plug hole not a piston stop. Use plenty but don't let the rope into the exhaust or intake port. (pull the starter rope in the recoil out a tad for recoil protection) Take up the Slack at the hub going counter clockwise POT the umph to it with a gadget I neglected to tell ya to make before You did all of the above (SORRY about that). Do your best not to put any cattywampus (Spell check accepts thet word WOW) Pressure and bugger the end of your crank. If you could fabricate a spanner wrench to use those 2 holes in the hub get it already and wrap a cold REAL COLD wet rag under the hub to protect the seals and stuff from heat.....Put a dab of quick heat (Torch) on the hub but not the end of the crank AND LEFTY LOOSEY IT .. if it does or does not work do your best to keep your crank cool. Your spanner pins needs to go into the holes all the way and the face of metal your pins are in needs to be as close to the hub as possible (don't round/smear those holes}
Or use a cut off wheel and cut as safely close as you can to the crank threads on 2 sides. I would prefer option #1 Good Luck.

A small percentage of older saws , had right handed threads, Pioneer 650 and some other, but obviously the person wasn’t looking at the arrow, pointing at the off direction, like modern saws are ,

 

[Junk Meister]

Did you mean RIGHTY loosen it ? It will come loose if you turn it to the right , only gets tighter turning to the left.

BIG BIG OOPSEE on my Part but I bet your correction will really reinforce the "BASSAKERDS" concept Thanks for chiming in.
Now to go wash the egg off my face.

 

[footstep]

Well soaking the clutch in break free for a few days and adding a little heat didn't work to remove the remains of the clutch, had to take the cutoff wheel to it and cut it into section, what a pita that was, got it done though & didn't F up anything in the process.