Blast Cabint Moisture

[breese]

I have a desktop blast cabinet, 60 gallon 220V air compressor, filter / oiler with a dry outlet, and a second dryer on the blast cabinet.
I cannot seem to keep water from getting into the cabinet and the 1st filter / oiler is not collecting any water.
Anyone have an idea on how to fix this??

The filter in the filter / oiler appears to be ok and Dry.... I do not understand this.

 

[Redfin]

Use a nitrogen bottle.

 

[woodtool89]

elements are junk or they cant handle the vapor.
ive never ran FRL's before, but have installed/maintained large compressed air systems, and for air dry enough for something like sand blasting, would install water /particulate filter, and then an oil vapor filter, this is in addition with a large refrigerant air dryer straight off the compressors. but you should be able to drain your filters enough to keep water out of your blast cabinet...
I don't believe frl's remove enough water vapor for what youre doing...

 

[Car wash guy]

elements are junk or they cant handle the vapor.
ive never ran FRL's before, but have installed/maintained large compressed air systems, and for air dry enough for something like sand blasting, would install water /particulate filter, and then an oil vapor filter, this is in addition with a large refrigerant air dryer straight off the compressors. but you should be able to drain your filters enough to keep water out of your blast cabinet...
I don't believe frl's remove enough water vapor for what youre doing...

A small refrigerant dryer would be the ticket.As close to the close to the cabinet as you can get it.The farther away from the air compressor the more water you make.

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[Car wash guy]

A small refrigerant dryer would be the ticket.As close to the close to the cabinet as you can get it.The farther away from the air compressor the more water you make.

Sent from my Lenovo TB-X103F using Tapatalk

Also drain your compressor daily.Ive seen compressors half full of water before.Something we started making customes buy is a blow down for there compressors.Runs off 110 you put it on the drain of the compressor.Every so often it's adjustable it will Purge the compressor

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[JohnnySef]

Moisture at the cabinet but not at the dryer either means it is cooling and condensing after the dryer or the dryer is not working. How much rubber are you using in your air system?

My compressor is bolted to the floor at the back of the shop and is plumbed with a combination of copper and black pipe through the garage for cooling and noise convenience. On the line out of the compressor there is a valve, flex hose, a tee to a drain valve, and up to ceiling height all in copper. All of the drops use a tee and elbows to come off the top pipe at the ceiling and also have a tee with a drain before the dryer, regulator, and hose quick connects at bench height. The copper does a great job cooling the air even on those 95+deg humid days in Aug. and I do not have moisture problems with my blast cabinet or paint guns. I have other trouble with my paint, but dry air is not one of them.

Depending on the prices of pipe in your area one may make more sense than the other. For me though, anything new that I add is all copper even though it is expensive, simply because it is much cleaner. My auto drain dryers no longer auto drain and the mufflers on the line drains constantly need cleaned because the rust and debris from the black pipe has collected in them. The bulk of the moisture collects in the areas before the drain valves at the bottoms of the drops so I do not have to drain the dryers very often, but the copper lines do not give me the same trouble.

 

[J & L Creations]

You could build something like this one I built.

 

[72thing]

Moisture at the cabinet but not at the dryer either means it is cooling and condensing after the dryer or the dryer is not working. How much rubber are you using in your air system?

My compressor is bolted to the floor at the back of the shop and is plumbed with a combination of copper and black pipe through the garage for cooling and noise convenience. On the line out of the compressor there is a valve, flex hose, a tee to a drain valve, and up to ceiling height all in copper. All of the drops use a tee and elbows to come off the top pipe at the ceiling and also have a tee with a drain before the dryer, regulator, and hose quick connects at bench height. The copper does a great job cooling the air even on those 95+deg humid days in Aug. and I do not have moisture problems with my blast cabinet or paint guns. I have other trouble with my paint, but dry air is not one of them.

Depending on the prices of pipe in your area one may make more sense than the other. For me though, anything new that I add is all copper even though it is expensive, simply because it is much cleaner. My auto drain dryers no longer auto drain and the mufflers on the line drains constantly need cleaned because the rust and debris from the black pipe has collected in them. The bulk of the moisture collects in the areas before the drain valves at the bottoms of the drops so I do not have to drain the dryers very often, but the copper lines do not give me the same trouble.

Best answer.
I had moisture problems until I plumbed everything with metal tubing. It's one of the keys to dry air for sure, due to it acting like a cooler. The longer your run, the more it's a necessity. Black iron pipe works fine except for internal rust as mentioned above. I plumbed my shop mostly with 20 mm seamless aluminum tubing because a friend had leftovers off a commercial job. Air should always be pulled off the top side of pipe with a drop underneath it with drain valve.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about.

Air comes in LH side and then goes up thru elbow to the separator. Moisture has a harder time making that run and tends to fall out in the drop leg where it can be drained thru the ball valve.
Hope this helps, although @JohnnySef nailed it in his description.

 

[hseII]

Best answer.
I had moisture problems until I plumbed everything with metal tubing. It's one of the keys to dry air for sure, due to it acting like a cooler. The longer your run, the more it's a necessity. Black iron pipe works fine except for internal rust as mentioned above. I plumbed my shop mostly with 20 mm seamless aluminum tubing because a friend had leftovers off a commercial job. Air should always be pulled off the top side of pipe with a drop underneath it with drain valve.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about. View attachment 136759

Air comes in LH side and then goes up thru elbow to the separator. Moisture has a harder time making that run and tends to fall out in the drop leg where it can be drained thru the ball valve.
Hope this helps, although @JohnnySef nailed it in his description.

Low Point (LP) Drain FTW!!