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Bar stud replace

LAWN BOY

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Sounds like that's a tool I should have if I'm going to be replacing bar studs. I have an echo kiroritz 452vl that needs the new ones installed. Do I need the 10mm as linked or the 12mm tool? Are there other ways to replace bar studs?
 

ammoaddict

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Sounds like that's a tool I should have if I'm going to be replacing bar studs. I have an echo kiroritz 452vl that needs the new ones installed. Do I need the 10mm as linked or the 12mm tool? Are there other ways to replace bar studs?
That doesn't look like something I would remove a bar stud with. Some bar studs are threaded in and some punch out into the oil tank. You can remove the threaded ones usually with two nuts jammed together and turn the bottom one to remove the stud, turn the top one to install.
 

Woodwackr

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Sounds like that's a tool I should have if I'm going to be replacing bar studs. I have an echo kiroritz 452vl that needs the new ones installed. Do I need the 10mm as linked or the 12mm tool? Are there other ways to replace bar studs?
Sounds like that's a tool I should have if I'm going to be replacing bar studs. I have an echo kiroritz 452vl that needs the new ones installed. Do I need the 10mm as linked or the 12mm tool? Are there other ways to replace bar studs?
I have one, the 8mm version, not a 10mm... a lot easier than the 2-nut method but if the stud is really in there it can damage the threads a tad. So far, it has been easy to chase the threads back to normal when that has happened.
Husky and Shindiawa are press-fit, not threaded.
I've never seen any 12mm studs on any saw...either 8 or 10 (large Stihl)
 

dangerousatom

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depends on the studs.
Some go into the case without entering the gas tank compartment. Others get put into the tank and the square head retains it on the inside, some may even get nutted inside the tank....never seen that but there are plenty of stupid design engineers out there. IMO you dont need a stud puller if you have vice grips when the treads are shot. The only time I have ever justifiably needed one is when your in a location ( on a car-truck ) that you cant get any clamping/gripping hand tool into.

download (1).jpgdownload (2).jpgdownload (3).jpg
 

Woodwackr

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depends on the studs.
Some go into the case without entering the gas tank compartment. Others get put into the tank and the square head retains it on the inside, some may even get nutted inside the tank....never seen that but there are plenty of stupid design engineers out there. IMO you dont need a stud puller if you have vice grips when the treads are shot. The only time I have ever justifiably needed one is when your in a location ( on a car-truck ) that you cant get any clamping/gripping hand tool into.

View attachment 451153View attachment 451154View attachment 451155
you mean oil tank...
 

srcarr52

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Sounds like that's a tool I should have if I'm going to be replacing bar studs. I have an echo kiroritz 452vl that needs the new ones installed. Do I need the 10mm as linked or the 12mm tool? Are there other ways to replace bar studs?

Those have 3 rollers inside on ramps that clamp down on the stud, they will dent the threads. They only work well when there is an unthreaded section that you can clamp it on.

It's best to use a couple of nuts jammed together.
 

beaglebriar

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Sounds like that's a tool I should have if I'm going to be replacing bar studs. I have an echo kiroritz 452vl that needs the new ones installed. Do I need the 10mm as linked or the 12mm tool? Are there other ways to replace bar studs?
That style works very well for removing ms290/310/390 studs. Don’t see why it wouldn’t work equally as well for others with the same type of stud.
 
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