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394xp rebuild or not to rebuild that is the question...

What do you guys think?

  • Rebuild it with Chinese parts

    Votes: 4 57.1%
  • Forget about it. Sell what I can.

    Votes: 3 42.9%

  • Total voters
    7

Dolmar Junkie

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I get all the babes at the local watering holes discussing the finer points of 90+cc husky saws. :coleman:
I need to transfer my membership to your watering hole, the ones I was frequenting, the "babes" only want to discuss the ins and outs of Silicone...
 

Mattyo

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"ins and outs of Silicone"

MUST .....RESIST.... COMMENT..... ugh

I've only seen one 394 big end bearing gone. Cranks aren't THAT hard to find. BUT, the flywheel side nut is a different size for a 395 crank, as is the flywheel. ... either crank will work, but you'll need to match the flywheel appropriately
 

Stump Shot

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plenty of guys here are willing to help @beaglebriar @Stump Shot know more about huskies than i do but for the extra on the piston cylinder kit id go with the oem it will help if you ever have it ported or for resale

Saw is worth going OEM or at the very least a top tier AM like Meteor: http://www.hlsproparts.com/Meteor-Husqvarna-395-395XP-cylinder-and-piston-kit-p/mcc1815.htm
Especially if to be ported and run up.

To go with lesser AM makers is a crap shoot at best, you need to be able to buy several different ones to find a good runner. This can be done and I have the unused cylinders in their boxes yet to go along with what I'm saying here. http://www.hywayparts.com/category-s/174.htm
Have some of the best running Husqvarna cylinders from here, better than OEM, also some in the pile... http://www.arbortec.net/category-s/170.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=170&show=30&page=1
These however are on much smaller saws worth much, much less money. If this saw were on my bench I would spend good money on the important parts that make it go, and less on non important parts like a muffler bracket for example. If money were a concern. A lot of the smalls I buy from China end up in the garbage can, it's just a reality. Especially the rubber bits and pieces. It's a dicey game for sure, again if you look at the end game, the saw is worth more OEM than not. So adjust accordingly, as it is all in what you make it.
 
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Dolmar Junkie

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"ins and outs of Silicone"

MUST .....RESIST.... COMMENT..... ugh

I've only seen one 394 big end bearing gone. Cranks aren't THAT hard to find. BUT, the flywheel side nut is a different size for a 395 crank, as is the flywheel. ... either crank will work, but you'll need to match the flywheel appropriately
You cannot resist the powers of the Dark side!
I am not Your father Mattyo.... Matt sr.
 

Mattyo

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That oem 395 cylinder kit ... very nice price on that.

But the best way to save money here is to do a 394 oem cylinder used on ebay... and a meteor piston. that way you don't need the adapter kit. put the extra money towards other stuff.
 

Dolmar Junkie

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That oem 395 cylinder kit ... very nice price on that.

But the best way to save money here is to do a 394 oem cylinder used on ebay... and a meteor piston. that way you don't need the adapter kit. put the extra money towards other stuff.
I am just always nervous about what will actually show up when I order something critical from eBay. Did it offer returns?
 

Mattyo

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that dude is in Canada, i would not expect to be returning that cylinder ... the shipping might be cost prohibitive
 

beaglebriar

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Morning gents, a lot of good stuff flying around here, I just got caught up here.

Yall are making it difficult to make a decision on this thing.

If I went with an am p and c that would give me plenty of room for french-ups

I thought oem bearings were cheap.

If I was gonna turn this into a work saw I would absolutely go with an oem p and c. But now I'm not sure. If I rebuild It with a good oem bottom end and China top parts then I can experiment with it and when I'm ready I'll find a good oem p and c.

I'm not worried about the money necessarily but it would be nice to know I could make most of my money back if I had to.....

Also @beaglebriar I absolutely appreciate the offer but if it does get rebuilt it will be my first case split so I would like to do it for experience purposes.
Well the offer stands if you want/need the help. I have a drawer full of Nachi bearings that'll fit this saw if you'd like a couple.

You're not gonna lose money on this saw of you do it right. Once it's built I don't know why you'd want to sell it anyway.
 

astnmacgto

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Well the offer stands if you want/need the help. I have a drawer full of Nachi bearings that'll fit this saw if you'd like a couple.

You're not gonna lose money on this saw of you do it right. Once it's built I don't know why you'd want to sell it anyway.
I'll keep on touch!
 

astnmacgto

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I'm assuming it takes the same bearings and seals for both sides if that's the case then oem bearings and seals are only gonna be 45 bucks for it.

Less than I had figured
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Here is my vote, having done a full 394 overhaul/mod myself recently...

Shop around for a set of good used cases here, other forums, Chainsawr.com (Saw salvage parts source) and even Evilbay. I would not trust cases with that type of damage.

Make sure the crank is serviceable and if it is, get a good used OEM 394 cylinder looking in the places I listed above, and a Meteor piston kit for under $40 usually. My personal 394 is the third one I have used Meteor piston in and all three are still going strong. 394 and 395 pistons are slightly different from one another, I am told it is the ring locator pin locations. I got my 394 spec Meteor from HL Supply.

I always go OEM with my crank bearings and seals. I figure why take the chance at having a questionable part fail that requires full teardown to address just to save 20 bucks on bearings. If I am recalling accurately, I want to say that the gasket set, crank bearings and crank seals totaled about 50 bucks from my local dealer.

Bottom line is yes, you can make this saw a good runner once again. No, it won't be cheap if you want to make it cosmetically nice to boot and yes it can get out of hand. Try and utilize all of the resources you can for the major parts in good used condition. I wouldn't mess around with trying my luck with a cheap AM P&C kit on a saw like that. Be patient and do it right, at least mechanically at first. Then you might find that you want to peck away at making her a bit prettier a little at a time. I don't know exactly how much I have in my 394 but I don't care because it was always intended to be a saw for me and not to re-sell. I know I have alot less than the cost of a new 395 into it for sure...

I say: Hunt up a good used set of cases and a good used OEM 394 cylinder and give it a whirl unless you are worried about "investment" return.
 
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