HUSQVARNA 372xp xtorq seal or?

[Socalmisfit]

So I got my 372 all together fired it up and it won’t tune. There is an air leak, I sprayed carb cleaner on the clutch bearing and boom it quit. So now I’m gonna tear into it. Seal, the oring or bearing? What your thoughts thanks in advance

 

[PA Dan]

So I got my 372 all together fired it up and it won’t tune. There is an air leak, I sprayed carb cleaner on the clutch bearing and boom it quit. So now I’m gonna tear into it. Seal, the print or bearing? What your thoughts thanks in advance

Pressure test and spray it with some soapy water look for the bubbles.

 

[Socalmisfit]

Pressure test and spray it with some soapy water look for the bubbles.

I have to find something to cover the intake, or build a jig to cover the intake boot due to the flap on the boot. Also gotta get a pump I bought a mittvac but got the one that only does vacuum.

 

[huskihl]

When you sprayed carburetor cleaner, was the clutch in place?

 

[PA Dan]

I have to find something to cover the intake, or build a jig to cover the intake boot due to the flap on the boot. Also gotta get a pump I bought a mittvac but got the one that only does vacuum.

Pieces of a bicycle innertube work well placed behind the carb and muffler. I have used Gorilla tape over the exhaust port. Clean it really well with brake cleaner and it holds.

 

[Socalmisfit]

When you sprayed carburetor cleaner, what is the clutch in place?

Yes

 

[huskihl]

I would guess it’s the seal then rather than the bushing. Even without the rubber O-ring in place, I’m not certain that carburetor cleaner would get sucked in between the crank and bushing enough to kill it. But maybe I suppose.

The bushing could also have a crack in it

 

[stranter]

The inlet cover plate 578 09 56-01 is worth getting for those. Makes vac testing a lot easier.
I would say, just replace the seal and get 2-3 o-rings. It’s easy and cheap enough to keep a couple in stock. Such a bad design in my view.

 

[Socalmisfit]

The inlet cover plate 578 09 56-01 is worth getting for those. Makes vac testing a lot easier.
I would say, just replace the seal and get 2-3 o-rings. It’s easy and cheap enough to keep a couple in stock. Such a bad design in my view.

I see it, I’ll order 1 in and tear it apart and check for leaks. I’ll probably just seal both sides while it’s apart and check the bearings. Thanks for the part #

 

[Socalmisfit]

I would guess it’s the seal then rather than the bushing. Even without the rubber O-ring in place, I’m not certain that carburetor cleaner would get sucked in between the crank and bushing enough to kill it. But maybe I suppose.

The bushing could also have a crack in it

Yeah I’ll tear it apart and see. Watched a few videos and seen a mess when some come apart. Hope it’s not too bad in there. I have another saw so I may just tear into that one and if it is better I can take from this one and complete that one. May have started with the wrong saw.

 

[Czed]

I've had 7 of the Chinese clone 372s
They had no o ring
I add a o ring and usually put motoseal in the bushing if I have them off
Some guy's use grease.

 

[Duce]

Have also had seal leak around pocket. Applied vacuum with Motoseal placed around area between pocket and seals metal ring. Could see motoseal being drawn in, let it sit for 24 hours and problem was solved.

 

[Gord]

The 2 screws that hold your oil pump on have to have sealant on their threads because the holes are open to the inside of the crankcase, if your going to replace that seal the pump has to be removed, very easy saw to work on, rebuilt a lot of them.

 

[Socalmisfit]

Well it’s torn down and I don’t see an oring. If I pus up and down on the crank I can feel a little play So I am thinking I might just go all the way and do the bearings, not sure if there should be any allowance in there. My pops says he has some 6202 c3’s at his house so I got those. Now I get to buy a couple more tools and tear it down all the way

 

[huskihl]

There’s usually not much of the oring left. A smear of grease of sealant under the bushing is probably more reliable in the long term

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Take that bushing, clean it with brake clean and smear some RTV on the inside. Clean the shaft with brake clean and then put your o-ring in and slide the bushing on. Put the clutch assembly back on, tighten and then wait 24 hours and try and see if the leak is still there.

why husky just didnt mill the crank to the size of the oil seal on the clutch side is beyond me. this and the husky intake rubber boot-carb seal are just plain lousy!

 

[mdavlee]

Take that bushing, clean it with brake clean and smear some RTV on the inside. Clean the shaft with brake clean and then put your o-ring in and slide the bushing on. Put the clutch assembly back on, tighten and then wait 24 hours and try and see if the leak is still there.

why husky just didnt mill the crank to the size of the oil seal on the clutch side is beyond me. this and the husky intake rubber boot-carb seal are just plain lousy!

That deal fits a few other saws if my memory is right like 288 and 394/5.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

That deal fits a few other saws if my memory is right like 288 and 394/5.

395 has a properly tapered crank shaft, i cannot speak for the 394 as i have not worked on it.

Thinking about it further husky may have wanted to use a bushing to make pulling clutch side sealed easier. That would make sense, but in the end that little o ring is so small and for it to seal the inside of that bushing is asking alot of it.
Just my opinion, i do not want to spout mis information but someone please correct me if I am incorrect

 

[huskihl]

395 has a properly tapered crank shaft, i cannot speak for the 394 as i have not worked on it.

Thinking about it further husky may have wanted to use a bushing to make pulling clutch side sealed easier. That would make sense, but in the end that little o ring is so small and for it to seal the inside of that bushing is asking alot of it.
Just my opinion, i do not want to spout mis information but someone please correct me if I am incorrect

I believe it’s like that so they could use a proper size threaded clutch and yet still have shoulders to seat the bearings, worm gear, and clutch against, while still using the smaller 6202 bearing. Without the stepped bushing, they would be down to a 10 or 8 mm thread pattern on the clutch

 

[Socalmisfit]

Take that bushing, clean it with brake clean and smear some RTV on the inside. Clean the shaft with brake clean and then put your o-ring in and slide the bushing on. Put the clutch assembly back on, tighten and then wait 24 hours and try and see if the leak is still there.

why husky just didnt mill the crank to the size of the oil seal on the clutch side is beyond me. this and the husky intake rubber boot-carb seal are just plain lousy!

This saw has now takin a back seat to a 395 I got. I need to get a couple more tools, I’m gonna take it all the way down and put new bearings since that’s a weak point. I will though when I put it back together go the extra mile and do what you are suggesting here. Have a parts list ready just couldn’t find the tool to install the crank. There out everywhere except eBay and they want double the price. I think I’m gonna order a set from maty05 so I have something that will work on all the most common saws. Thanks again for the input.