372 case assembly

[StihlEchoingHusky]

372 xtorq May or may not be a good saw to assemble as a noob with that being said. Anyone know what would be the simple way of reassembling the crank,bearings and case halves? Also is there a particular size of socket I can use to drive in the seals? I have a Husqvarna seal driver that's on a row boat from Sweden.... Shows about a week until it arrives. i was going to go the route that donny walker has a video of... But I don't have an arbor press. I've got a 20ton shop press but I fear that I might mess things up.

 

[redline4]

372 xtorq May or may not be a good saw to assemble as a noob with that being said. Anyone know what would be the simple way of reassembling the crank,bearings and case halves? Also is there a particular size of socket I can use to drive in the seals? I have a Husqvarna seal driver that's on a row boat from Sweden.... Shows about a week until it arrives. i was going to go the route that donny walker has a video of... But I don't have an arbor press. I've got a 20ton shop press but I fear that I might mess things up.

You can look through any of my build threads. They are on Stihls, the 044, 046, 064 and ms441, but all were disassembled and reassembled without special tools for ideas.
I've done Husqvarna saws the same way, just didn't do a thread on them.

 

[decableguy2000]

Put bearings and crank in the freezer for a while and bake the case in the oven at 200 bearings should drop right in. What a few minute fro the bearings to warm up and drop crank in. DON'T forget case gasket. Job can be done with out the crank tool. Seals can be driven with a socket big enough ID to get over the crank and small enough OD to cover metal portion of the seal. As far as the depth I can't remember and the workshop manual doesn't say other than use tool.

 

[Stump Shot]

The absolute easiest way I know is to install the bearings on the crankshaft first. Toss the crankshaft in the freezer once cooled take a bearing and wrap it up in multiple folds of paper towel and then wet it in water. Place on a dish and microwave a few minutes(depends on wattage of microwave) and heat until almost dry. The steam produced does the work and it wont spark because it's encapsulated. Place hot bearing on crank until it bottoms out. Repeat for other side.
Starting with the FLYWHEEL side case half, warm bearing pocket area with propane or mapp torch until smoking hot(literally). Drop flywheel side of crank into flywheel side of case until it bottoms.
Place gasket on flywheel side over alignment pins once cooled. Heat PTO case half as done prior, now working fast, place halves together and once you have come in contact with alignment pins give it a "pop" with a plastic hammer to send it home. Again, working fast, install crankcase fasteners. Then right away, check that the crankshaft is free by giving it a wiggle jiggle. It should move freely on its own back and forth. If not, give the PTO side of the crankshaft a "pop" with a smallish brass hammer to alleviate the side pressure on the bearing. Apply more heat to case half if necessary. Take a razor blade and trim off excess gasket protruding from where the cylinder mounts. Your case is now ready to be built upon.
When done in this order and manor your crankshaft will be automatically indexed and in prefect position for the bearings to run correctly.